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Popping/clicking When Pressing In Clutch.

  • Thread starter Thread starter modulistic
  • Start date Start date Aug 12, 2014

modulistic

Active Member
Nov 26, 2002
383
30
29
Aug 12, 2014
#1
  • Aug 12, 2014
  • #1
I'm trying to figure out wtf I did wrong with the clutch. I swapped the entire drivetrain from a donor car and when the clutch cable came over it was about a quarter inch too short for the double hook quad. Ordered up a triple hook and had to adjust it way out on the firewall adjuster, using the last hook on the quad.. I just figured ford moved the firewall forward between model year 89 and 92.Worked great until today when the ferrule popped off (broke at the quadrant) and basically dumped the clutch from a red light. Very interesting and I was lucky to be first in line.

This whole time it made a pop or click from somewhere whether on or off, when stepping on the clutch. The noise is when pedal is almost to the floor.

Anyways, got a stock replacement, feels real nice, half as much pedal effort, but the pop is still there. I stuck my ear under the car and it sounds like its coming from the bell housing. I can't imagine that I got the TO bearing in backwards, would the trans even slide home? Wtf did I up?
 

modulistic

Active Member
Nov 26, 2002
383
30
29
Aug 12, 2014
#2
  • Aug 12, 2014
  • #2
if I adjust the tension to where there is a little bit of preload, the clicking goes away, but the clutch engages/disengages at the very top of the pedal travel. Im paranoid about TO and thrust bearing wear, so I like it to be ever so slightly slacked in the line. if I adjust it there, though, it pops. Might just go to a hydraulic clutch set up this winter. This is frustrating as hell.
 

modulistic

Active Member
Nov 26, 2002
383
30
29
Aug 12, 2014
#3
  • Aug 12, 2014
  • #3
anyone else care to input where/ how they adjust the clutch and how much tension they put on the cable?
 

modulistic

Active Member
Nov 26, 2002
383
30
29
Aug 13, 2014
#4
  • Aug 13, 2014
  • #4
The noise was coming from the cable contacting the back of the quadrant where the retainer pin is and slipping off to the side. Ground down the firewall adjuster flange about a quarter inch, got the cable on the second hook and it works great.
 

oldskolbus

Founding Member
Apr 30, 2002
258
13
29
WV
Aug 15, 2014
#5
  • Aug 15, 2014
  • #5
When up put the throw out in did you get the clip(springs) lined up on the bell housing. Ive done a few stang clutches and if I remember right they are a pain to get both lined up and the pivot point on the bellhousing. did you lift up on the clutch pedal to take the tenision off the line. There is an adjustor above the clutch pedal?
 

modulistic

Active Member
Nov 26, 2002
383
30
29
Aug 15, 2014
#6
  • Aug 15, 2014
  • #6
hmm. Dont remember any springs in there. I replaced the TO bearing with new, and when I was installing it, the clutch fork did fall off. (I pulled and installed the engine with bellhousing still attached.) I remember a clip that held the arm to the pivot ball, so I slid the arm and clip back onto the pivot ball and looked around to see if there was anything else.

the clutch is silent the first 50 shifts after cold startup. as it gets warmer, I guess its stretching and getting loose and the noise comes back slightly.

I lift up on the clutch pedal and it raises up about an inch, but falls back down as soon as I step on the clutch for the first time.

Will probably have to rip it all apart this winter.
 
Last edited: Aug 15, 2014

oldskolbus

Founding Member
Apr 30, 2002
258
13
29
WV
Aug 17, 2014
#7
  • Aug 17, 2014
  • #7

clips that's what I meant. I pulled out my spare and took a pic. behind the fork there is 2 clips


The way I adjust the clutch is lift up on pedal, reach my right hand up under dash till I can feel the adjuster(half of a wheel with teeth on it). I hold the adjuster and push down a little on the pedal. Its plastic and the teeth can wear.
 
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