This is with the 418 in my sig. Whenever I really hammer on it, it'll pop in the upper rpms. I think it might be going lean because it also runs hot sometimes. Is there anything I can do to fix this without a tune? Im still using the stock FPR, will an adjustable one work as a band aid until I can get a tune?
popping under hard accelleration?
- Thread starter 1slow95
- Start date
94gts
Member
wytstang said:
yea i didnt even run the stock fpr with a stock motor and nitrous. get that thing outta there. a cheap used one will do the job.
YEAHLOH95
Founding Member
i have an idea why your car is running hot your upper rad hose is kinked i just looked at it in your picture thread in talk that will not let the water flow right .
troy
troy
94gts
Member
YEAHLOH95 said:
holy crap hes right. its gotta be kinked to the point of where its flowing 1/2 what it should.
Low-5.0 said:
any brand really. my bbk works great.
Low-5.0 said:
you always COULD reuse it, but i wouldnt. you shouldnt have to remove it to do a fpr
YEAHLOH95 said:
I knew it was kinked a little, but I never really that would be much of a problem....Looks like I'll be adding an upper radiator hose to the list of parts to get sooner rather than later.
I'm too lazy to work on the car tonight, so I'll check the spark plugs tomorrow night.
I shouldn't have to remove the upper intake to get to the fpr, but it would make it a whole lot easier. I'll use that as a last resort if I start doing too much
Low-5.0 said:Where would I cut it at to eliminate this kink?
My cousin has some of that flex-hose stuff left over that I can get real cheap, so I'll just give that a try.
I doubt thats the reason your running hot. But anything is possible. Mine was exactly the same way, and the motor ran very cool with that summit rad.
Pic- not the best cause it was kinda dark, but u can see pretty much the same exact kink.
FWIW, I had to cut the top hose down a bit (I used a 26" wide radiator. It mounts in the stock location on the driver side and comes up short on the pass side - I wanted to steer clear of the ABS pump).
The top rad. hose was 3-4" too long laterally (meaning that I could not cut one end or the other to have any meaningful effect).
I ended up cutting it in the middle (where it runs transversely) and shortening it and then using a metal pipe from the home store (sort of like what blower guys do) to join the hose back together.
I would like to use one hose, so if anyone has ideas (more info on this cheap flex hose would be cool - if it is something I could get cheap too).
When I did the radiator, I talked to Brian (who also used a radiator which was less wide than stock) and he had used metal flex hose from Summit, but it was upwards of 100 bucks when I looked. I could not swing that.
Good luck!
The top rad. hose was 3-4" too long laterally (meaning that I could not cut one end or the other to have any meaningful effect).
I ended up cutting it in the middle (where it runs transversely) and shortening it and then using a metal pipe from the home store (sort of like what blower guys do) to join the hose back together.
I would like to use one hose, so if anyone has ideas (more info on this cheap flex hose would be cool - if it is something I could get cheap too).
When I did the radiator, I talked to Brian (who also used a radiator which was less wide than stock) and he had used metal flex hose from Summit, but it was upwards of 100 bucks when I looked. I could not swing that.
Good luck!
Mike
That stroked windsor is driving your poor pcm nuts.
The load that is being produced by that bad boy stroker has all your load tables fubared and even then, beyond that.
You gotta get that thing tuned.
I don't see how working with the fuel pressure is gonna give you a lotta help.
I mean to tell ya, with 42's, you most likely are getting enough fuel.
Later
Grady
That stroked windsor is driving your poor pcm nuts.
The load that is being produced by that bad boy stroker has all your load tables fubared and even then, beyond that.
You gotta get that thing tuned.
I don't see how working with the fuel pressure is gonna give you a lotta help.
I mean to tell ya, with 42's, you most likely are getting enough fuel.
Later
Grady
Hissin50, yeah it's the summit flex hose. It's only $100 if you get it with the shiny chrome end caps. Without them I think it's around $50. My cousin has a short piece left over that he said he'd sell me cheap if it will fit.
So what else could cause it run hot? I know timing will, but I have it set right at 10*...If the rain ever lets up today, Im gonna check the spark plugs and move my fan up a little higher.
So what else could cause it run hot? I know timing will, but I have it set right at 10*...If the rain ever lets up today, Im gonna check the spark plugs and move my fan up a little higher.
Well, it seems to be missing a little and I think that is causing it to pop. Will a tune fix that, or should I look for another problem first? The distributor, wires, and plugs are all new but Im still using the stock TFI module and no MSD ignition box. The coil is an Accell one that is about 3 years old now.
Here's what the #5 spark plug looks like after 200 miles.
Here's what the #5 spark plug looks like after 200 miles.
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