Possible 331 Build, What All Can I Reuse

About that time to freshen the car up as to my issues with the no. 2 cylinder. Might as well go ahead and either do a 306 or 331. My whole thing is if I'm more than likely not going to do a turbo or SC then I want a 331. I think I will be satisfied with a 331. I'm not a racer or track guy but from time to time I will play around on the street with it. So help me out with what all I will be able to re-use and what I will have to change up .

Here is my setup even though its in my sig:

Edelbrock per rpm 2
TF Twisted wedge heads
Crane cam ( E clone)
24 lb FI
Mac Shorty headers
75 mm MAF
70 PP
BBk or Mac Cold air kit
Basani X

and what about the oil pan, harmonic balancer

damn no one wana help lol. i think i'm leaning more toward doing a 306 and a SC or turbo but I'f I stay NA mainly because like i said I aint going to race the car or it be a track car and also I want to still be able to work on it myself, I might not mess with a SC or turbo. Not sure how much more difficult it will be to do things to the car, diagnose stuff with a supercharger or turbo. I'm almost fine with my 302 but want it to run consistently good like it has some days. So doing a 331 I'm sure I will be happy

so im about to listen to videos now of 306's with turbos and SC's and also some more 331's. So to recant what i said earlier, might not be leaning toward a 306 with a turbo might just stick with a 331

madspeed said:

is your balancer a stock one? You'd need to make sure the balance is correct, so if using a stock balancer you'll need to be at a 50 oz balance frm the machine shop

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i'm pretty sure its a stock one yes. When the guy who did my heads and intake back in 03 or 04, i know we changed it out and I dont see why i would have gotten anything other than a stock one.

Also what about my cold air kit. Would I be better served with another type or is it not going to make much of a difference?

madspeed said:

not much difference, i'd leave it until you decide to add boost

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in ref to the balancer or cold air kit

also though, after retesting no. 2, I will probably just go ahead and pull off the heads and I will have more answers as to that. If its just a head gasket or even a valve or something, then I might just go ahead and slap the heads back on after that instead of rebuilding to a 306 or 331 right now. Talking to the guy that did the engine swap, he was just saying with the heads will having been gone thru, it will probably put more pressure on the block and wouldnt be unwise to maybe go thru the block and rebuild that too since 182 k miles is on it. But hell I might just go ahead and have the heads checked and put them back on and just wait till later on and rebuild and everything. Car is only a weekend driver anyway and I put less than 10 k a year on it; more like 7k.

Thoughts guys
Also, just fixed intake gasket about a wk or so ago and did not use any silicone on the gasket at all except the front and rear of the block. Can that intake gasket be reused?
Do the headers need to be removed out of the way completely or will unbolting from heads and pushing out of the way be sufficient?

As a part of my diagnosing yesterday after putting in some lucas oil to see if it would help a possible unseated valve, I drove the car on a nice hour and half to two hr ride. At about the one hr mark I stopped and unplugged the chip. It seemed to drive a little bit better at first and It even seemed be more peppy on take off but later on in the drive it was about the same. The CEL was on but its for my EGR delete i know was an automatic code. I wanted to check anyway tonite after driving the car up town to put in some fuel.

koeo:

327-egr ( which is not on car)
552-Air management 1 circuit failed( I'm guessing thats smog related)
553-nothing in book for that so im thinking also smog
558- google seems to say EGR related also
121- closed throttle voltage higher or lower than expected
122- TP sensor circuit below mininum voltage
177- HEGO shows system always lean left

koer:
314, 311 seems to be smog related as googling noted. Also got 327 again.

So as far as that it seems i should just change the TPS since it is the original one and 182k on car? Bought new NGK's from Rock Auto a yr ago and about 7k miles put on them so I'm going to call them thursday and see if they will send me another set. If I go to parts store and buy them and they don't fix that issue then I'm stuck with 2 sets and they don't go out that often at least not normally I guess. I won't be able to try them and clean them up and take back would i lol? I'm hoping that's the culprit of my miss problems and loss of power, the tps and/or the 02's and that compression tester might be malfunctioning and then I won't have to worry about rebuilding, pulling heads, or what have you

I tested the TPS and its showing fine. Normal of .97 and WOT it sweeps normal from .97 to 4.60. I had 3 IAT sensors and changed it weeks ago during diagnosing so i will swap back to one of the others. I might of put one one from the v6 and if that was a culprit of the issues I'm gona kick myself but I highly doubt thats the case.

I still want to try another set of 02's and want to see about those code issues before I take it to get the leak down test done. I will watch some videos and consider buying one and doing it myself tho but i still wana try the issues with those codes first

Is the Leakdown tester basically done the same way? One at a time with all the plugs out? And the car has to be good and warm but by the time you let it cool down a little to where you wont burn your hands getting the pieces in the sp hole and by the time you get to no. 5, the car might be cold again ????