Link meBuy the book and become the GEM go-to guy on this site. It’s a thought
Thanks this is helpful...I am at .050 amps (50 milliamps) after everything goes to sleep....170 milliamps before it goes to sleep...and I do have my stock radio installedThe GEM takes roughly 40-45 minutes to go to sleep. If open a door or pop the trunk or activate any system it monitors, this resets. So really you want to set your meter up, flip the lock in the door to simulate it being closed (remember to flip it open before closing the door when done) and set your timer.
I had a parasitic draw issue recently, so went back to my thread. After finding the source of the draw (Mach 460 amps), i noted that when eveeryhing is running properly, draw on the system is 150 milliamps. When the GEM finally went to sleep, it was 20 milliamps. Note: this was without a radio, so it would be slightly higher for the draw the radio uses to keep the memory.
The source of my parasitic draw was the mach 460 amps, but I was pulling 0.35amps at rest. Once i disconnected those, my problem was solved and the GEM was drawing 150-160milliamps initially before going to rest about 45 min later.
Yeah definitley going to try that tomorrow...if this isn't it then I guess next thing to do is let that multimeter sit out there for 2 hours and go back and look at min/max recorded values....see if i have a strange intermittent draw that pops up every 30 minutes or something....You're this far... There's no reason [not] to disconnect the alternator just to see.
Yeah definitley going to try that tomorrow...if this isn't it then I guess next thing to do is let that multimeter sit out there for 2 hours and go back and look at min/max recorded values....see if i have a strange intermittent draw that pops up every 30 minutes or something....
I don't think 70 milliamps is even that bad....but I don't know the true amp hours of this cheap Walmart everstart plus battery...I'm sure it's very low considering it's a $109 battery
Yeah I think there's a reason why they don't list their AH...it's probably next to nothing....Yeah, plan to replace your battery when you can. Keep that one on-hand for a spare. Get one with a good reserve capacity. Maybe even one from... A Dealershipor along those lines.
Well this is the 3rd battery now so I was hoping it would last...odds are that something with my car is destroying these batteries....Have you tested the battery? You mentioned it's dropping to 12.4 volts. That's really at the low end of the range for what is considered a good battery
Thanks I'm open to all videos to help...I did watch a really good video on how to test diodes multiple different ways....I'm still going to do them but I think if you have diodes you will have some sort of parasitic draw from them...I have zero parasitic draw when I unplugged the alternator....but maybe I'm wrong and they could be bad and not causing a draw....but I did rule out 100% certainty that my draw is not coming from the alternator...Just to be sure (because I don't know what you know):
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbxQw-vsNws
if you have diodes you will have some sort of parasitic draw from them...
This not correct. Diodes are not like capacitors. They
I meant to say bad diodes would cause parasitic draw....not diodes cause parasitic draw...I forgot the word "bad"This not correct. Diodes are not like capacitors. They don't draw or store anything. Their primary purpose is to limit the flow of electrons in one direction.
With a bad diode the alternator tries to [motor] when then engine is off. If this were the case, you would see a [much] larger parasitic draw.
If the diode is completely burned, then the alternator will not charge the battery with the engine running and you would [not] see 14+ volts with the engine running.
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