Possible strectched clutch cable?

[eagle_011]

I just put a rebuilt T-5 in my car, with a resurfaced flywheel, new pilot bearing, new throw-out bearing, and King Cobra clutch set. The car already had an adjustible cable and aftermarket quadrant on it. I can adjust the cable from having a 1/2 inch slack in the cable all the way down to running the nut up tight to the fork and it still won't let me put the car in gear with it running. I can put it in first and then start the car but the car starts to pull off if I don't have the e-brake set.

I bought the car with the trans out of the car, but the previous owner says that he never had that problem before the trans was pulled.

Would putting a new adjustable cable on eliminate my problem or did I do something wrong when I installed the clutch? Please help!!

Thanks,
Jason

 

[HISSIN50]

Jason, if you have the cable adjusted with zero lash at the fork and still cannot get it in gear, that's curious.

The floor mat isnt jambed under the pedal, is it?

If you run the adjustment in a little tighter yet, what happens?

Do you know what flavor of quadrant you have (even just info like it being a single hook or multi hook quadrant would help - I am not a fan of multihook quadrants)?

Good luck.

 

[Foxfan88]

well if you can tighten it all the way to where the nut touches then the clutch cable isnt stretched. this would take up the slack.

when u said u tightened it, was the pedal tight, or was there slack.

with my quadrant and adj cable i run the nut to where it pretty much touches the fork but isnt pulling it, with the clutch engaged the fork will sit freely without the cable putting pressure on it, this puts the pedal right where i like it.

it sounds like u may have a clutch problem.

have u got under the car and watched to see if the fork is moving like it should?
u could try push starting the car in gear and see if it does anything more then.

 

[bill302]

you have to have the nut tighter than,"up tight to the fork". i have someone press the clutch pedal to the floor then place a set of plyer handles between the fork and housing window so that when the clutch is released the plyer handles dont allow the clutch fork to fully compress allowing you to pull cable and tighten an extra 1/2 inch or so also ensure the cable doesnt come loose at the quadrant while doing this then have someone press the pedal and you can remove the plyers and test. you may have to do this several times until you get it fine tuned...

 

[Foxfan88]

got to be careful too.if its too tight it will start disengaging the clutch and if its bad enough the clutch will slip

 

[mustanggt5pt0]

Those stupid adjustable clutch quadrants! I went through two different ones, first cable snapped after 3k miles. Second one seems to be ok. Not to thread steal, but when I took my engine out last week, my clutch with 7k miles on it had burn spots everywhere and the disk was almost down to the rivets...WTF?!?
Most likely because of the stupid cable. A fine balance between slipping, and not going into gear.

 

[JChalfan]

If you have a multihook quadrant, is it possible you have it on the wrong hook?

I don't have any experience with the multihook quadrants, but it seems logical to me...??

 

[eagle_011]

Thanks for all your comments.

The current quadrant is a single hook. I can't see any name on it, it's silver in color. I have a brand new double hook Steeda quadrant, firewall adjuster, and a new adjustable cable that I'm thinking of putting in the car Friday to see if it makes a difference.

When the pedal is pressed it works the fork under the car. If I start the car with it in gear, it tries to pull but won't because the e-brake is on. If I let the e-brake off the car starts to roll slowly (BTW 3:55 rearend with 2:95 first gear in T-5).

But, If I start the car with the e-brake on, and then let off of the clutch pedal some the car finally stalls out like the clutch is working.

Do you guys think I need to go tighter on the adjustment? But I thought that was bad for the TOB. Any comments and suggestions are really greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[HISSIN50]

Jason, it sounds like you almost have no choice but to go a little tighter. I would do this for diagnostics atleast - you can back it right back out after running the car for 30 seconds; I'd sure want to know that the trans is capable of going into gear as it should.

A single hook should be a decent deal - I've run an SVO single hook and now a UPR single - both work well. And for me (HD clutch kit) both worked without needing to preload the cable, so that part is a little puzzling. I'll note that the shorter throw quadrants are not as forgiving however.

Good luck.

 

[Foxfan88]

i fought clutch cable problems and my currents setup is what did good for me.

i have a FRPP double hook quadrant and the FRPP adjustable cable.

i messed with firewall adjusters and they just caused me problems. i wouldnt run one.

its better to keep the adjustment in the cable itelf.

with a FWA all your doing is putting pressure on the whole jacket of the cable, pushing it out to take up the slack..

with the adjustable cable. you actually change the length of the cable which is better IMO

from my expierences i would run just an adjustable cable and good quadrant, having both a FWA and adj cable is pointless and will make clutch adjustment moer of a chore than a quick turn of a wrench

with the aftermarket quadrant, with the single hook models the hook should be at the end, resembling a stock one, then the multi hook pieces add hooks down the line, all of which serve no real purpose. the 2nd may come in handy but the 3rd hook on some quadrants are just a gimmick.

i just run my cable ove the quadrant and hook it over the hook closest to the steering wheel and adjust the nut to zero lash and i have no problems.

 

[eagle_011]

Thanks again guys. I'm gonna try tightening on it Friday when I'm off of work and see how it goes.

Is there anything I could have done during the clutch and flywheel installation that could be causing this? I'm stumped if tightening on it more doesn't work.

Thanks again,
Jason

 

[Bad92GT]

could be a throwout bearing..

 

[eagle_011]

Ok, i tightened up on it a little more, and yes it's working.

But, now I have another problem. I pushed the clutch pedal put it in gear and etc all with the car sitting still. About the 4th or 5th time I pushed the pedal down it went to the floor. Come to find out the fork seems to have come off of the pivot ball in the bellhousing. Could it be that I tightened it too much? It was releasing rather high in the clutch pedal travel so I'm thinking I had it way too tight for it's on good?

Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jason