Possible to install engine + trans at the same time?

Hey guys, spent all yesterday trying to get my c4 mounted up to the 351w and it was just not going in.. having issues getting them to line up properly. I am about ready to attempt it again today but i was curious if i took out my rad if there would be enough clearance to throw the engine and trans in at the same time so i could join them together outside the car or if its going to be just as much messing around. Thanks in advance!
 
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I would not have even thought about not removing the radiator before installing the motor or motor & transmission. It’s too easy to damage and too easy to remove to not pull the radiator first.
I have not tried with a 351/C4. The transmission crossmember is easy to remove if it will help.
 
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I've done this a couple of times. When pulling/installing a motor/trans combo in a fox body, I always remove the entire front end (just a few bolts and it's really easy), radiator and I cut out the core support top panel. Then it's basically a straight shot into the engine bay.....trans and all! Once it's all in......a couple of quick beads with a MIG welder seals the core support back up. It makes installing a motor/trans combo into a Fox body, ridiculously easy!

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I have pulled and installed engine/trans as one piece a few times. I use a $26 load leveler from harbor freight bolted to the heads with the rear of the car up on jack stands and the front on the ground. You'll need to obviously remove the radiator to even have a chance and may need to remove the lower plastic chin spoiler from the bumper to slide the engine hoist legs in far enough unless you have a crappy 1ton hoist. If you do then it may not extend enough so you'll need to pull the front bumper to have enough room. If you have the 2 ton you should be fine. Take your time and have a friend lower it as you hold the tail shaft of the trans and guide it in being mindful of the radiator support with your oil pan and may want to cover up your fenders and firewall with cloth for protection against scratches etc.
 
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I don't like the cutting of the core support, easy to cut off , not so easy to put back for us regular hobbyist,
I've R & R 'd many engine/trans combos by myself, I place the front wheels on enough wood to clear the hoist legs then jack up the back as high as I can, use 'load leveler' to get additional angle and it will slip in, it's not easy but can be done.
If the engine is in the car now and you are having trouble mating them together that last inch or so you may not have the torque converter seated completely, make sure the trans is in park, spin the converter while gently pushing it in, sometimes you need to pull out a little on the converter and spin pushing back in, once the converter is seated the trans should bolt to the engine without issue and the converter should still turn to line up the holes in the flywheel.
I should mention, make sure the crank shaft flange mates (fits) the flange on the torque converter, converter nose should slid into the crank flange.
 
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I only do this together fully assembled. My setup is engine and TKO. So much easier doing alignment out of car. A yoke in the trans keeps the fluid from leaking our the tailshaft.
 
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Ok, google fu and found this:
If you're using the 351 flex plate it won't work.
 
In my eyes cutting a core support is not a option. My car is a easily 15K car as many on here are seeing around that value. To cut that off and butt weld back on...no thanks.
 
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Actually you don't even need a leveler... Just position the lift chain correctly, lift the back of the car up to help with the angle, and after you get the engine/tran in close, slide a jack under the transmission to lift it until the front motor mounts set, then install the crossmember....
If this 66 year old man can do it by himself Anyone can...
 
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I would only do them together. As previously stated, get a load leveler. Sure, you might not need it, but it's in expensive, and makes it so much easier.

Kurt
 
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With an auto it's kinda easy either way, mostly due to the flat oil pan on an auto, also basically you're just lining up the pins on the block to the trans case, the converter gets moved out to the flywheel/crank flange, with a stick the odd shaped case and dealing with the clutch plate and pilot bearing complicate things, I've done both and like I said, with the auto it's a toss up, the stick is definitely less stressful installed as an assembly.
JMO.
 
With an auto it's kinda easy either way, mostly due to the flat oil pan on an auto, also basically you're just lining up the pins on the block to the trans case, the converter gets moved out to the flywheel/crank flange, with a stick the odd shaped case and dealing with the clutch plate and pilot bearing complicate things, I've done both and like I said, with the auto it's a toss up, the stick is definitely less stressful installed as an assembly.
JMO.
Its been a few years, but I have installed multiple 4 speeds in my past.. I should say WAY in my past.... I could not get my new TKX to go on.. My neighbor came over two different times to help
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and still it would not go on.. I ended up installing the bellhousing to the transmission and it slipped right on the engine.. Surprised me how easy it was... If any others have a problem you might try this way...
 
Ok, google fu and found this:
If you're using the 351 flex plate it won't work.
Yeah i did research on the flexplate and ended up finding one that will work. Some of the 1972 ford broncos with the 302 used a 157t 28oz balance plate. Got one in for 70$ instead of the super expensive ones online
 
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