Power Adder guys...Thinking about joining you

[flstang65]

Well, come tax return time, I think I am going to take part of that money and put it towards getting a power adder. I was thinking about going with spray simply based on price. It will be only used at the track and I plan on going conservative on what jet I would use. Other than the occasional car show, the car hardly gets driven.

I was thinking about going with the Nitrous Express plate system.

Any suggestions? This will be my first experience with NO2. All my experience has been with all NA or supercharged cars.

Current relevant mods include: 75mm throttle body, upper intake, Sniper Tuner, 4.10 gears and pulleys.

 

[Tim2002GT]

Nothing wrong with the NX plate kit. It is a very good kit. However, you could go with a Harris Speedworks plate kit and save a little money. HSW kits, IMO, are just as good as NX kits. I have been using an HSW nozzle kit for almost 3 years now without any problems.

As for suggestions on some safety features, get yourself an rpm window switch, a higher flowing fuel pump(a KB boost a pump works too), 1 step colder spark plugs(NGK TR6's gapped at 0.035), and don't spray anything more than a 100 shot on the stock tune. Never spray it with a performance tune loaded, because you don't want your timing advanced when using nitrous. Don't rush into running the biggest jets you get with the kit, learn how the car reacts to the smaller shots first. You will love how hard your car will pull with a 100 shot!

 

[BurningRubber]

Tim basically covered everything. I have a Harris Speed Works plate kit on my car, and it's very good quality. NX's solenoids are more capable from what I've seen, but unless you're going to be spraying a big shot, HSW's will suit you fine up to the 150 shot supplied with the kit.

I don't suggest this, but as far as simplicity... I'm running my kit bare bones. It's activated by a WOT switch supplied with the kit, but I don't have a purge, I'm using a stock fuel pump, no window switch, no bottle heater, and a modified stock tune (VIA Diablosport, about 2* of WOT timing pulled from stock, and increased WOT fuel delivery).

It's simple enough to set up the accessories to make the kit even safer and more reliable. People who trash engines on nitrous generally do so because they get greedy and swap the jets out without paying attention to how the car is responding (reading spark plugs is your friend), or there's a physical malfunction with the car (such as a weak fuel pump, clogged injector, etc.).

The biggest threat really with nitrous is having a solenoid stick open. That can cause some major issues, but as long as you maintain them, your minimalizing your chances of that.

As far as what you're looking for, it sounds like a good route to go. It's there when you want it, not when you don't. It doesn't require an extensive install like an S/C or turbo kit does, there's less tuning involved (for smaller shots), and you don't need a big fuel system for a WET kit and a smaller-sized shot.


A 100 shot is all you really need to make a 2v run pretty good. I ran within 1/100th of my friends heads/cam/intake 6 speed Z28 (440rwhp) at a local 1/8th mile track. His trap speed was higher, but being able to hit the juice off the line gives you a good holeshot.

 

[trombonedemon]

After seeing some Nitrous backfires destroy some plastic lower intakes, I would think about getting a metal lower intake. jmo.
Correction, I just YouTubed a cobra getting its metal intake turned into flying little knives, you sure you don't want Forced Air, hate to see a 3 grand motor destroyed by something that costs 5 hundred bucks.

 

[Tim2002GT]

After seeing some Nitrous backfires destroy some plastic lower intakes, I would think about getting a metal lower intake. jmo.

Generally speaking, the cause of this type of backfire is from activating the nitrous system below 3k rpm. Below 3k rpm, the air velocity through the intake manifold is not ideal for a wet kit. Thats where having an rpm window switch comes into play. I set mine to turn on the nitrous at 3k and turn it off at 6k.

 

[flstang65]

I was going to go with a plate kit working with around 100 shot, purge kit, rpm window switch, fuel pump, plugs, and possibly a bottle warmer.

Should 4.10 gears be safe to leave on the car?

 

[BurningRubber]

After seeing some Nitrous backfires destroy some plastic lower intakes, I would think about getting a metal lower intake. jmo.
Correction, I just YouTubed a cobra getting its metal intake turned into flying little knives, you sure you don't want Forced Air, hate to see a 3 grand motor destroyed by something that costs 5 hundred bucks.

I think the most backfire-proof intake for a 2v is the Edelbrock. It's a GREAT nitrous intake by design.

It's a risk that comes with the territory. I've had mine cough a few times, fortunately nothing worse thus far.

Generally speaking, the cause of this type of backfire is from activating the nitrous system below 3k rpm. Below 3k rpm, the air velocity through the intake manifold is not ideal for a wet kit. Thats where having an rpm window switch comes into play. I set mine to turn on the nitrous at 3k and turn it off at 6k.

Agreed. As a consequence of not having a window switch, I accidentally activated it in the lower 2k range one time. It spun up so fast I didn't even have time to realize what I did... fortunately it just freaked me out a little, no boom.

I was going to go with a plate kit working with around 100 shot, purge kit, rpm window switch, fuel pump, plugs, and possibly a bottle warmer.

Should 4.10 gears be safe to leave on the car?

Yes, they are a blast together. Only issue is traction, and if you go to the track, possibly running out of gear depending on tire size and where your rev limiter is set.

 

[Tim2002GT]

4.10's here as well.

With traction, 4.10's + nitrous is an awesome feeling! I have been using a 27" tall tire and it puts me just over 6k rpm at the finish line.

 

[flstang65]

If I choose to go with a fuel pump rather than the KB BAP, what size would be a good pump to go with? Lastly, fuel injector size shouldn't have to be changed either?

 

[Tim2002GT]

I use a Focus SVT pump. It is typically good to around 400 rwhp. Thats the pump that MPH used in their Vortech SC Mongoose kits. You could also use a Walbro 255.

Stock injectors are all you need. The extra fuel comes from the nozzle on a wet kit. On a dry kit, you would want bigger injectors.

 

[flstang65]

Thanks for all the help guys! And awesome suggestion in the Harris Speed Works kit. I guess the only question I have left is: Should I take the under drive pulleys that I currently have on the car off and put the stock pulleys back on?

 

[mazen189]

i have a zex kit. Bare. No window switch, bottle heater, etc. Just the kit and thats it and im running a 100 shot on their with 373's. Absolutely no problems. This was prolly the best investment i did on my mustang. As far as other power adders. I would love to get my hands on a supercharger, but unfortunately its a bit pricey for me to handle. Good luck with your decision though.

 

[Tim2002GT]

Nah, leave the pulleys on there. Will only help the car, on and off the bottle.

 

[BurningRubber]

This was prolly the best investment i did on my mustang. As far as other power adders. I would love to get my hands on a supercharger, but unfortunately its a bit pricey for me to handle. Good luck with your decision though.

Agreed.

 

[trombonedemon]

Soooooooo, this thread has peaked my interest. So all in all, what would a car need for a wet nitrous kit setup. Would a new tune for the car be involved?

 

[flstang65]

i have a zex kit. Bare. No window switch, bottle heater, etc. Just the kit and thats it and im running a 100 shot on their with 373's. Absolutely no problems. This was prolly the best investment i did on my mustang. As far as other power adders. I would love to get my hands on a supercharger, but unfortunately its a bit pricey for me to handle. Good luck with your decision though.

The extra money I would have used to buy a blower or turbo, is going to be put towards the suspension.

Soooooooo, this thread has peaked my interest. So all in all, what would a car need for a wet nitrous kit setup. Would a new tune for the car be involved?

Yes, a new tune would be involved. How I plan on doing mine is loading a general street tune to drive around town on that would NOT have the nitrous included. That way I am not tempting myself to get into any trouble. I would have a second tune loaded on it for the nitrous and track use only. Some of my friends have asked; "Why don't you just keep the tuner with you and load the tune while you are out any time you want to use it?" I have a Sniper Tuner and don't really want to be carting my lap top around with me in my car, especially in the Florida heat since I will be moving back to central FL in a couple of weeks.

 

[Tim2002GT]

Thats how I have mine also, except I am using an SCT XCal 2. Both of my tunes are from Mustang Performance Parts & Upgrades by Brenspeed. I was impressed with how well their nitrous tune has worked for me. My car has been on the dyno numerous times and the a/f always looks good without much tweaking to their tune. It was setup for a 75 shot also(I am running a 125 shot). What I usually do is take 2* timing out of it and add 4-8% more WOT fuel depending on the weather.

Soooooooo, this thread has peaked my interest. So all in all, what would a car need for a wet nitrous kit setup. Would a new tune for the car be involved?

At the very least, get a set of spark plugs that are 1 heat range colder than stock and gap them to 0.035. You can get away without having any of the safety features that we've talked about if you are careful. I highly recommend using a WOT activation switch instead of a push button to turn the nitrous on. Most kits come with one so its not a big deal. Reason being, if you have something go wrong, all you have to do is let off the gas pedal and the nitrous will deactivate. With a push button, especially if you have a stick car, you will have to remember to let go of the button. In a panic, that might be something you would forget to do. Also, do not use the nitrous with a performance tune loaded. The added ignition timing could be the end of your motor if you add nitrous to the equation.

 

[trombonedemon]

You might just answered one my questions about people using forced air and nitrous at the same time.

 

[flstang65]

Why should I not run dry fogger? I have been hearing mixed opinions on this.

 

[BurningRubber]

Why should I not run dry fogger? I have been hearing mixed opinions on this.

You could, but with a dry kit you're relying on the injectors to supply the extra fuel. This definitely means bigger fuel pump, injectors and a spot-on tune.

With a wet kit, the fuel is being supplied along with the nitrous mixture. Assuming your stock pump is in great shape, it will keep up with a smaller shot without the need for a new pump (although that's a great idea, regardless). You can use stock injectors (19lb's stock on my car... ok so far) and a stock tune up to a 100 shot with the correct plugs. Also seems wet kits make a little more torque.

Nice thing about a dry kit is there is less plumbing, no fuel solenoid to potentially stick open and your risk of fuel puddling in the intake and backfiring drops to zero.