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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Power to Manual Steering Conversion...

  • Thread starter Thread starter nitrous21
  • Start date Start date Aug 23, 2007
N

nitrous21

New Member
Aug 23, 2007
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1
Aug 23, 2007
#1
  • Aug 23, 2007
  • #1
Hey everyone, im setting up my 67 coupe for strictly drag. I am running a completely forged 385 Cleveland and I only want to run an alternator.

Right now I have PS but I want to get rid of it. What is the easiest way to convert to Manual? The car will rarely be driven on the street, but I would rather not have to do major work to change to manual steering.

While using the "search" function I found this on stangnet. http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchan...PFMP&Product_Code=00649&Category_Code=adapter
For anyone who used this adapter, do you completely get rid of the pump and the lines and replace them with this adapter? (Whats involved in this conversion?)

Any and all comments welcome, thanks alot!


Marc
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Aug 23, 2007
#2
  • Aug 23, 2007
  • #2
Best way is to remove all the powersteering components, and replace the drag link with a manual one, along with a manual pitman arm. This is what I did on my 77 Comet. The drag link and pitman arm cost me $130. Completely forged 351, huh ? Where'd you find that forged block?
 

rhyno9

Founding Member
Oct 30, 2002
209
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Oswego Illinnoying
Aug 23, 2007
#3
  • Aug 23, 2007
  • #3
D.Hearne said:
Best way is to remove all the powersteering components, and replace the drag link with a manual one, along with a manual pitman arm. This is what I did on my 77 Comet. The drag link and pitman arm cost me $130. Completely forged 351, huh ? Where'd you find that forged block?
Click to expand...

+1

I just did this yesterday.

Some hints.

The pitman arm removal will require a socket that is 1 5/16 and I could only find it in 3/4 inch drive so get an adapter from 3/4 to 1/2 drive. You will need an impact wrench cause the torque spec is something like 150 to 200 ft pounds.

Leave the steering box in the car and linkage attached to the spindles. Turn the wheels as if you are making a left hand u-turn so the spindles are on the steering stops. If you crank on the steering box when trying to remove the pitman arm bolt you can over extend the internal mechanisms and wreck the box.

Rent or buy a pitman arm removal tool. Using pickle fork can damage the box as can banging on the pitman arm with a sledge.
 
N

nitrous21

New Member
Aug 23, 2007
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Aug 23, 2007
#4
  • Aug 23, 2007
  • #4
Does anyone have an installation write-up for the manual adapter?

Also, what happens to all the power steering parts, such as the lines, pump, etc? Pics of a manual adapter installed?
 

scrutmonkey

Member
Jan 17, 2003
243
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16
San Jose, CA
Aug 24, 2007
#5
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #5
basically you just remove all of the PS components. the adapter takes the place of the power valve. Your alternator will we running off of one belt.

The best way is to buy a manual pitman arm, manual centerlink, and a manual roller idler arm from OT. You would probably want to get the 19:1 ratio flaming river steering box since yours is probably the 16:1.

but you can run manual with the close ratio box.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Aug 24, 2007
#6
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #6
I have a manual steering setup and I left my PS box in there. I don't care if its harder to turn, I don't want more cranks to lock out then I already have. My power steering for my 67 is my forearms.
 
N

nitrous21

New Member
Aug 23, 2007
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Aug 24, 2007
#7
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #7
Hey Rusty67, check PMs... Thanks
 
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