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Engine Power valve

  • Thread starter Thread starter Treneth
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2020
T

Treneth

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Apr 13, 2020
#1
  • Apr 13, 2020
  • #1
Do you guys think my power valve is shot? And is there any other ways to test to see if its shot?

So I have a holley 4150 800cfm carb, car was running rich I confirmed that by installing AFR gauge. Getting like 10s 11s partial throttle, idle was low 12s WOT seemed pretty good. So I jetted primaries to #68. Then started messing around (not actually knowing what im doing) with the idle set screws and actually had the best vac with them turned all the way in which from what I understand if it does not kill the engine its blown.

Now when I hammer on throttle it goes sluggish and leans right out. I've got a 6.5 power valve right now I get 13inch vacuum in park and 10 in drive with brakes applied. Thinking my power valve is shot and is likely to big anyways?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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#2
  • Apr 13, 2020
  • #2
That's a big carburetor, I take it this engine is putting out big hp numbers.
 
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T

Treneth

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Apr 13, 2020
#3
  • Apr 13, 2020
  • #3
Lol no it's not maybe 370 tops?, it's how I purchased this car from a guy who I think had the mentality bigger is better. Im not about to go and purchase a new one at the moment so I'm trying to make it work.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Apr 13, 2020
#4
  • Apr 13, 2020
  • #4
From my limited memory of carburetors it is going to take some tuning to get it to work unless the previous owner did it already, go to the holley website and see the tech pages.
That's what I would do, actually I would buy a 600 cfm carb and go from there, not knowing what the previous owner has done to it you may be chasing your tail.
 
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T

Treneth

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#5
  • Apr 13, 2020
  • #5
General karthief said:
From my limited memory of carburetors it is going to take some tuning to get it to work unless the previous owner did it already, go to the holley website and see the tech pages.
That's what I would do, actually I would buy a 600 cfm carb and go from there, not knowing what the previous owner has done to it you may be chasing your tail.
Click to expand...


If I'm to be honest from what i can see I dont think he did anything, just plunked it on and used it as is, he thought it was a 750cfm but when I looked at the list number it says its 800cfm. He's only ever used it on track WOT few times a year, where I'm trying to use it street/strip and be all street this year due to this virus and closing the nearest track.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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#6
  • Apr 14, 2020
  • #6
Unless you have a high rpm big cubic inch engine, 800cfm is too much. The result is reduced velocity at the venturies and that makes it difficult to dial it in correctly.
 
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Monkeybutt2000

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#7
  • Apr 14, 2020
  • #7
Isn't this s 351w? This kind of info ALWAYS helps.
 
T

Treneth

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#8
  • Apr 15, 2020
  • #8
Monkeybutt2000 said:
Isn't this s 351w? This kind of info ALWAYS helps.
Click to expand...

Yes 351w.
 
J

junkyardwarrior

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#9
  • Apr 15, 2020
  • #9
John Dirks Jr said:
Unless you have a high rpm big cubic inch engine, 800cfm is too much. The result is reduced velocity at the venturies and that makes it difficult to dial it in correctly.
Click to expand...


Depends on the boosters, blocks, baseplates, throttle bores, shafts, and a bunch of other things. There are more than one style of each.

"too big" is meaningless. Too big for the tuner? That happens sometimes.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#10
  • Apr 15, 2020
  • #10
junkyardwarrior said:
Depends on the boosters, blocks, baseplates, throttle bores, shafts, and a bunch of other things. There are more than one style of each.

"too big" is meaningless. Too big for the tuner? That happens sometimes.
Click to expand...

800 cfm is just that. How are the throttle bores (carb body) changeable? I suppose you could put a base with smaller blades but how is that going to work with a body designed to flow 800cfm. You gonna run the air through a larger body bores and try and neck it down past a smaller base plate opening? I can’t imagine how that would


Considering a naturally aspirated engine is basically a mechanical pump that will pull a fixed amount of air related to the crank rpm. There’s rarely any measurable benefit from an oversized carb.

 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
27,826
10,507
203
polk county florida
Apr 15, 2020
#11
  • Apr 15, 2020
  • #11
It would be possible to 'de' tune a big carburetor for a mild build but you need extensive experience with doing this, is it worth the trouble, no.
On top of that you have no idea what has already been done to this one and if it was done right, it may work fine at wot but it is going to be a turd every place else.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Apr 16, 2020
#12
  • Apr 16, 2020
  • #12
I'm no carb expert that's for sure.
But I would think we are missing the most relevant information about engine, the heads...
 
T

Treneth

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#13
  • Apr 16, 2020
  • #13
2000xp8 said:
I'm no carb expert that's for sure.
But I would think we are missing the most relevant information about engine, the heads...
Click to expand...

Stock.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
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#14
  • Apr 16, 2020
  • #14
Treneth said:
Stock.
Click to expand...

Stock from what vehicle?
Cam?
 
T

Treneth

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#15
  • Apr 16, 2020
  • #15
2000xp8 said:
Stock from what vehicle?
Cam?
Click to expand...

79 block I beleive, D9ae-6015-ed-21

It's a street/strip cam I'll get you the cam specs within a week when i return home from work.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
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#16
  • Apr 16, 2020
  • #16
Treneth said:
79 block I beleive, D9ae-6015-ed-21

It's a street/strip cam I'll get you the cam specs within a week when i return home from work.
Click to expand...
You should do some research on that engine.
Some of the history guru's may be able to figure it.
But i'm thinking right now you could be significantly off on the horsepower.
If it's the 79-83 era there wasn't a whole lot of power in any 351.
It's also not a roller block.

IMO, the same rules apply to carbs as EFI intakes, you use as close as possible to what you actually need and things always run better.
 
T

Treneth

Member
Jan 1, 2020
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Apr 24, 2020
#17
  • Apr 24, 2020
  • #17
2000xp8 said:
You should do some research on that engine.
Some of the history guru's may be able to figure it.
But i'm thinking right now you could be significantly off on the horsepower.
If it's the 79-83 era there wasn't a whole lot of power in any 351.
It's also not a roller block.

IMO, the same rules apply to carbs as EFI intakes, you use as close as possible to what you actually need and things always run better.
Click to expand...

I very well could be way out on numbers, that's based off dyno 2000 program which I realize aren't all that accurate.

I did however change power valves and played some more with idle mixture screws and I'm not saying it's as efficient as it could be but its ways better with a much more solid AFR reading.
 
T

Treneth

Member
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Apr 24, 2020
#18
  • Apr 24, 2020
  • #18
2000xp8 said:
Stock from what vehicle?
Cam?
Click to expand...

This is the only info I have on the cam
 

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