Powermaster 1 wire setup - not charging?

im not a big fan of the non self exciting alts, but it should kick in by 2500 rpm.

sounds good - try checking output at the alt vs what it is at the solenoid. there should be virtually no voltage drop.

if you have an inductive ammeter, you could see how many you are flowing.

or you can take it down to the parts store and get some free testing done.

there were no problems with the wiring, right?

last thing would be a bad battery (bad cell etc).

my random thoughts. good luck.

Try replacing the wire.. I had mine do the same thing and i replaced the wire and hasnt happend since... You can also check the belt tension... Good Luck

check the voltage output at the alternator with the car revving about 1500rpm. It should read around 14.5V.

If you have underdiveve pulleys that will cause a voltage drop at idle. I installed an OVERDRIVE pulley on the alternator to help it spin faster at idle.

I have a 140 powermaster also, and while revving I only got 12V. My battery would often need charging. turns out the voltage regulator inside my powermaster was screwed up. good news is that they sell a rebuild kit, which includes the new voltage regulator. cost is around $39. I can't remember the part number but I can look it up if you need.

is the one wire just the fat cable from the solenoid to the alternator? i have no experience with a one wire alternator setup.
with a 140 amp alternator, i think you need a little more than an 8 gauge wire (more like 4 gauge). that is just what came to mind. good luck, bud.

powermaster

I have this alternator and I love it! Try using a multimeter to check the volts at the battery when the car is running you should have at least 13.5. This alt is not self exciting so you do have to get it to around 1500 rpms to get it to work. You also want to check your battery ground wire take it off and use the ohm setting on the meter pos to one side neg to the other it should read close to zero, if it reads over 400 that is high resistance and probably your problem! It can be a few things take a good look around it might be some thing easy! good luck

There are several possiblities:

1.) The alternators with more than stock output need a 4 gauge wire & 125-135 amp fuse from the alternator to the battery post of the starter solenoid. You can get the fuse & wire at the local auto stereo shop or try www.partsexpess.com. You will need to assemble the wire & fuseholder on your own. However, there is kit from PA Performance if you want to spend the $$$. Or you can use the battery cables with the lugs crimped on the end if you get the wiring from the auto parts store.

2.) Do you have underdrive pulleys? If so, get a smaller pulley for the alternator.

3.) High output alternators need a separate 4 gauge ground run from the engine block to the chassis ground where all the other ground wires for the battery connect. The best place on the engine block is the ground by the oil filter.

4.) You have some device that is drawing power when the engine isn't running. This could be a badly wired alarm system, stereo, or a courtsey light that stays on all the time.

The ideal method is to disconnect the positive terminal, and connect a Digital Multimeter (DVM) between the positive terminal on the battery and the positive cable. Set the DVM on a low current scale of 2-5 amps if it doesn't auto range. Watch the current draw, and then start pulling out fuses. When you see a sudden drop in the current, that circuit is the likely culprit. Note that the computer, radio & clock will draw less than 1/10 amp to keep the settings alive.

If you don't have a DVM, a test lamp can do the same job. Just connect like I said to do with the DVM. When you pull the offending fuse, the light will dim or go out.

I got the same powermaster one wire hook up and mine is charging at 11 volts at idle. I have a 40amp glass fuse in between the battery and solenoid and am running thick 4 gauge cable. Should I upgrade to a 140 amp glass fuse?

mustang90 said:

I got the same powermaster one wire hook up and mine is charging at 11 volts at idle. I have a 40amp glass fuse in between the battery and solenoid and am running thick 4 gauge cable. Should I upgrade to a 140 amp glass fuse?

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Do the math 130 amp alternator, 150 amp wire, 40 amp fuse.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps! What do you think will happen when you turn everything on?

I had this same alternator, and always had problems with it. When I bought it, my tech said it was the wrong application and that one wire alt's aren't for street cars. But Summit said it was great for cars with lots of accessories or hard hitting stereos, so what did he know? I put it in anyway and it never could keep up with even the most basic of draws. Took it to the auto electrician/alt rebuilder we dealt with, he took it apart and checked everything, said it was as good as could be expected, nothing wrong. Repeated my techs prognosis-
"One wire alts are for race cars".
Redid all my wiring. Slightly better. Had him spin a custom fast pully. Slightly better. Took it apart again for good measure, and cleaned everything. Despite the fact that it was advertised as a 140amp, it never managed more than 80 on the bench at any speed; and never even hit 13 volts. Could he upgrade it inside?
"No".
I had him build me a 130 amp 3G, never had another problem. Asked him if he wanted the Powermaster, since he has alternator laying everywhere.
"No".
What should I do with it then, since it's perfectly good?
"Find someone you really don't like..."
It's on a shelf in the shed.