Well, after making the mistake of not lubing up my new TOB in my new clutch kit from a couple months ago, the TOB is already making noise slightly... I'm dropping the tranny this weekend to knock it out, but I'd really like to avoid exhaust leaks like i got last time I dropped my tranny/exhaust. I've heard you can rub RTV where the pipes meet, but I was wondering if there were any good techniques I could use?
Preventing exhaust leaks when reattatching exhaust
- Thread starter 302GTS
- Start date
nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
Do the pipes not fit together correctly?
I suppose if you had to, u could put some copper rtv on the joints. But if everything is straight and tight, there shouldnt be any leaks.
I suppose if you had to, u could put some copper rtv on the joints. But if everything is straight and tight, there shouldnt be any leaks.
Well last time I dropped the exhaust, it was the stock h-pipe/stock catback. Now, I'm running a newly added BBK o/r x-pipe, so hopefully it should be an easy fix.
94-302-vert
Active Member
get teh pipe snug, then manhandle it a round so it will seat for the msot prat. snug it down then start the car and get things to heat up a bit (about a minute or so) then hit the bolts with an impact wrench... this usually works for me...
True 5.0
Member
Don't be a doof like I was the first time I went to connect my X-pipe to my headers. I slid the collars up and cranked them down and proceeded to crush the header cone. 
I didn't have the cup properly oriented and ended up with a horrid exhaust leak. To fix the problem I had to replace my headers with new ones.
Slowly work the bolts up and wiggle the X-pipe around to make sure the cup and cone are properly seated - especially if the X-pipe was installed before. I wouldn't waste my time with the silicone as that just burns off anyway.
I didn't have the cup properly oriented and ended up with a horrid exhaust leak. To fix the problem I had to replace my headers with new ones.Slowly work the bolts up and wiggle the X-pipe around to make sure the cup and cone are properly seated - especially if the X-pipe was installed before. I wouldn't waste my time with the silicone as that just burns off anyway.
Sounds good, guys. I'll be doing the job next Wednesday, and I plan on making a few changes since last time I dropped my tranny to do my clutch. I figured it'd be a great idea to get a case of beer for the night. Ended up with a loose tranny mount, exhaust leak from passenger header, no reverse lights, and a ****ty job on the throwout bearing obviously! 
Zero Signal
Active Member
I agree, don't bother with RTV since it will burn off, if not immediately, within a few hundred miles I guarantee. As described above, you have to wiggle, tighten, wiggle tighten to make sure everything is seated right. If it still leaks (like mine did) I don't know. I wish there was a flexible asbestos collector gasket out there we could use, but I have never found one.
Dan95-5.0
Active Member
You're a freaking God.
How many will I need, one for each pipe connection? So four?
Dan95-5.0
Active Member
Thank RIO5.0, not me. he told me about these gaskets. he had the same problem and he uses them all the time. just like i do now
just get one for whatever connection was leaking. its a 2 bolt exhaust gasket so just cut it so the outside is round. i put a thin coat of copper RTV on the ball and socket and slid one in. leak free.
not sure what application its for. just go down to your parts store and tell them them you need a exhaust gasket, Walker part number 31540.
just get one for whatever connection was leaking. its a 2 bolt exhaust gasket so just cut it so the outside is round. i put a thin coat of copper RTV on the ball and socket and slid one in. leak free.
not sure what application its for. just go down to your parts store and tell them them you need a exhaust gasket, Walker part number 31540.
