Which is the preferred MAFfor our cars? I eventually will have H/C/I and maybe some FI, but not for awhile. I just want to do the little stuff because I dont have a ton of cash. Does one have less problems than the other?
Pro-M 75mm Bullet vs. C&L 76mm
- Thread starter Joe 5.0
- Start date
You will hear bad things from both, but IMHO I'd never put a C&L on a 94-95 car. I don't like the way they trick the airflow over the MAF wires... it leaves too much to chance to screw up, but this is just my opinion. I'd opt for the pro-m 80mm if you can afford it, that is on my to-do list someday. I'm running the 75mm Bullit now with 24lb injectors and have had ZERO problems, and I mean none. Some say that the 75mm's don't work well for some reason with 24lb injectors... I don't know why though.
Well I dont think I'll do injectors until I do intake later this year, so hopefully it runs good with the 19's.
I just placed an order for the 75mm Bullet. To me, the 77 & 80mm were just way too much money for a freakin MAF. For $400 I'll buy a TFS intake or Edelbrock and make some significant hp.
What would be your guesstimate on hp & ET with 3.73's, 1.8 60's, TFS/Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 75mm Pro-M Maf, UD pulleys, 13*timing, Autologic chip, BBK LT's with O/R H-pipe & 2 chamber flows? I'd like to hope for 250rwhp/300+rwtq and mid 13's, but is that a pipe dream with the stock heads/cam?
Also Killer, any opinion on Professional Products throttle bodies? I'll buy the BBK 70mm if the Prof Prod 70mm is known to be crap, but I would like to keep the intake all chrome and plus the prof prod tb is like $50 cheaper than the BBK.
I just placed an order for the 75mm Bullet. To me, the 77 & 80mm were just way too much money for a freakin MAF. For $400 I'll buy a TFS intake or Edelbrock and make some significant hp.
What would be your guesstimate on hp & ET with 3.73's, 1.8 60's, TFS/Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 75mm Pro-M Maf, UD pulleys, 13*timing, Autologic chip, BBK LT's with O/R H-pipe & 2 chamber flows? I'd like to hope for 250rwhp/300+rwtq and mid 13's, but is that a pipe dream with the stock heads/cam?
Also Killer, any opinion on Professional Products throttle bodies? I'll buy the BBK 70mm if the Prof Prod 70mm is known to be crap, but I would like to keep the intake all chrome and plus the prof prod tb is like $50 cheaper than the BBK.
Well I got a call from pro-m yesterday and the guy suggested using a blow-thru style meter. Its the same price but I guess I need to convert it to 4 pin since its 6 pin. He said people have problems with the regular Bullet because the sample tube is at the top of the meter, whereas the blow-thru is more centered in the air flow, making it better for reading turbulent air caused by a bend from a CAI.
Does that make sense to you guys, or is he just trying to sell me something else thats sitting around longer?
BTW I did some research on Professional Products, they seem to be a joke. I'm gonna go with the FMS 65mm.
Does that make sense to you guys, or is he just trying to sell me something else thats sitting around longer?
BTW I did some research on Professional Products, they seem to be a joke. I'm gonna go with the FMS 65mm.
I have a C & L 76mm MAF for the stock 19lb injectors, and I have had ZERO problems with it as well. When I first started it after the swap it idled just fine with no problems at all.
As for the turbulent air thing, most people who have a problem "clock" the MAF (twist it around) until it runs good. Or make your own cold air intake and don't put a bend in the tube before the MAF. Either run it straight or put the MAF in the fenderwell before the bend.
The only thing to keep in mind with the Pro M meter is that if you upgrade your injectors you will have to get the MAF recalibrated for like $100. C & L is just a sample tube switch for about $20.
As for the turbulent air thing, most people who have a problem "clock" the MAF (twist it around) until it runs good. Or make your own cold air intake and don't put a bend in the tube before the MAF. Either run it straight or put the MAF in the fenderwell before the bend.
The only thing to keep in mind with the Pro M meter is that if you upgrade your injectors you will have to get the MAF recalibrated for like $100. C & L is just a sample tube switch for about $20.
jmuva44
Founding Member
My perspective:
I have had a 1995 and now a 1994 GT. I had the same C&L 76mm on both cars. The '95 loved it! The '94 absolutely would not run with it. I clocked it at every position, cleaned it, checked for leaks....nothing. It would idle rough as hell, run rich to the point that you'd start crying when in the garage and constantly fall on its face when driving under a normal load.
I replaced it with a 75mm ProM and I've had no problems at all. Our cars are VERY particular to what you do to air/fuel mixtures and timing.
The C&L is nice because you can "recalibrate" it for about $30. But the way I see it is if you get a ProM for 19# injectors and upgrade to 24# injectors, you can sell the 19# ProM VERY VERY easy. Someone is always looking for these. Buy the one you need, then sell the one you dont. Doesnt cost anything to upgrade which turns out to be cheaper than with the C&L unless you similarly sell the old calibration tube.
And to be fair to C&L, I've heard many people have problems with the ProM as well.....
I have had a 1995 and now a 1994 GT. I had the same C&L 76mm on both cars. The '95 loved it! The '94 absolutely would not run with it. I clocked it at every position, cleaned it, checked for leaks....nothing. It would idle rough as hell, run rich to the point that you'd start crying when in the garage and constantly fall on its face when driving under a normal load.
I replaced it with a 75mm ProM and I've had no problems at all. Our cars are VERY particular to what you do to air/fuel mixtures and timing.
The C&L is nice because you can "recalibrate" it for about $30. But the way I see it is if you get a ProM for 19# injectors and upgrade to 24# injectors, you can sell the 19# ProM VERY VERY easy. Someone is always looking for these. Buy the one you need, then sell the one you dont. Doesnt cost anything to upgrade which turns out to be cheaper than with the C&L unless you similarly sell the old calibration tube.
And to be fair to C&L, I've heard many people have problems with the ProM as well.....
I care more about the accuracy and function of the sensor than the ease of recalibration. Its gonna be awhile until I need bigger injectors, and like posted I can juse re-sell the maf and get a new one for not much more.
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