Progress Thread Pro-m efi! To coil on plug or not??

Reddevil91

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The round ball is vac reserve for HVAC. You'll want to leave that.

I'm about to do this myself. I'm tucking both sides and doing a power distribution block and starter relay delete. I may even relocate the BAP sensor to the fender and tuck the charcoal canister up and in the fender too.
I think I want to do the drivers side myself, as well as move the battery to the hatch, which I have seen the diagrams, but wish some one made a great how to video etc for all the wiring up and connecting these power distribution blocks.
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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C93FEC3B-B362-46C0-96EC-C8E2B83CD349.jpeg

this might help you out.
When I get home I can take look and try to get a pic of where it connects. I have my inner fender off, so I should be able to get a good look.
 

Reddevil91

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Mounts here

C9084D9B-7F34-45B8-8236-DD815555970B.jpeg


Vacuum line connects here (in red)
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Ha ok so what if both those lines are broken???? That one you circled goes to the ball vac thing, one shoots into the fire wall and the others goes over to the vac tree to plug into the A/C port. Both broken! again I have no ac don’t ever try and turn it on, but I guess if I don’t have these connected then say if I wanted to just turn on the vents to flow air in from outside I couldn’t?
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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The one going inside feeds all the vent deflectors that switch between vent or floor or defrost and move the flapper for the AC. You might not need the AC but you want your vents and such to work. If you elim the vac canister, you might find that under certain engine conditions you might lose vacuum and a vent might move to a different position and then move back. The connections are standard hose nipples. Just buy some vac line at your local autozone and hook it up that way. Is the line going inside the car busted? You can use heat shrink to repair broken hard vac tube. Dorman also sells hard vac tube (dorman 47418) and nipples int he HELP! sections of the auto parts store.
 

Reddevil91

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Mar 3, 2010
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The one going inside feeds all the vent deflectors that switch between vent or floor or defrost and move the flapper for the AC. You might not need the AC but you want your vents and such to work. If you elim the vac canister, you might find that under certain engine conditions you might lose vacuum and a vent might move to a different position and then move back. The connections are standard hose nipples. Just buy some vac line at your local autozone and hook it up that way. Is the line going inside the car busted? You can use heat shrink to repair broken hard vac tube. Dorman also sells hard vac tube (dorman 47418) and nipples int he HELP! sections of the auto parts store.
Ahh I see, no the one that goes into the fire wall is fine, but both the other lines snapped, I guess that ball vac one has been snapped for awhile now, and as i was trying to relocate that piece they all connect to the AC one snapped like nothing. Going to buy some more 11/32 vac tube for the tree and relocate that piece. Where can one relocate that bap sensor? I’ll see if I can find some vac tubing at autozone or advance to try and fix the other two small lines. Now I need to extend my starter harness and I am pretty much done with the passenger. I tried to tuck my brake lines, meh I just got them to fit slightly under the pinch. Now gonna try and get the drivers side going, and do this rear mount battery. Gonna be a process. That 1/0 gauge seems huge, not sure which is the best to run it, but I’m guessing through the fire wall, under the carpet, and back. Watched that House of dula guys video for it and I like the way he did his set up. Gives me an idea at least about how to run it. So how do these power distribution blocks work, and does this get rid of the solenoid? I have multiple ground lines connected to my neg battery cable, as well as two on my positive cable which are for the fans. So I’m wondering where I would mount these if I relocate the battery to the hatch. I guess the neg or grounds on the neg cable can just be mounted to the body correct? Sorry for the question overload!
 

Reddevil91

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Ok so I need some more help here, so I am planning on doing the battery relocation to the rear. I think there is a link in here some where. Anyways I was going to run it similar to what houseofdula did for his, different box, but I liked his first route then he went and did it a little different. I don’t use my rear seats so tucking the wire between the rear seat and the seat back is fine. So had a few wires that were grounded / bolted onto the negative terminal. 3 black wires on negative terminal are 1-msd box, 2- fan controller setup, 3- was one that I have no idea it had one end mounted to the fender and splices And that other end connected to the neg bat terminal as well. I also have two red wires one from the MSD box, and one from the fan controller that were connected to the positive terminal. So where will I need to mount those connections? Again I’m no wiring guru so the more simplistic the easier and better for me. As for all the other grounds that were fender mounted I’ll just ground all those to the inner fender somewhere. Also trying to find which spot to mount the solenoid on the inner fender.
View: https://youtu.be/QkKaAYH2Dx4
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C9CE46D3-A25C-435D-A335-CB3C93051C3E.jpeg
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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Here's where I mounted my solenoid and distribution block. Yours seem like it would be a little less complicated. That black wire that splits off is the ECU ground. A self tapper screw can be screwed to any metal of the body to ground it. The other end can go to your ground connection at the battery to block location.
Screenshot_20210221-163428_Gallery.jpg


If you don't have cruise control there's a big grommet at this spot.

20210221_164126.jpg


If you do have cruise there is another grommet between the 2 door hinges on both sides of the car. If using this grommet the wire has to go up inside the panel and out near the door harness connections above the kick panel.
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
Do you have a new style mini starter? You could eliminate the solenoid altogether and use a 30 amp relay to get power to the starter mounted solenoid. @Mustang5L5 helped me out through that process. I liked it better that having the whole solenoid inside the fender.

For the grounds, I ran one additional wire from the negative terminal into the fender well and attached to a bolt I installed on some clean metal. I attached everything else to that bolt. May be a little different if you’re moving your battery.

Do have a pic of the brake lines under the pinch weld? I’m redoing my brake lines now, and may want to go that route as well!
 

Reddevil91

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Some progress
Here's where I mounted my solenoid and distribution block. Yours seem like it would be a little less complicated. That black wire that splits off is the ECU ground. A self tapper screw can be screwed to any metal of the body to ground it. The other end can go to your ground connection at the battery to block location.
Screenshot_20210221-163428_Gallery.jpg


If you don't have cruise control there's a big grommet at this spot.

20210221_164126.jpg


If you do have cruise there is another grommet between the 2 door hinges on both sides of the car. If using this grommet the wire has to go up inside the panel and out near the door harness connections above the kick panel.
dang that’s mounted up there, bad thing is I don’t have the fender off like that so getting up that high is hard. I guess I really don’t understand the distribution block and how it works or gets power? As for power steering i no longer have it since I switch to the momo steering wheel. I’m guessing you were referring to this is a good spot to run those big ass cables for the battery relocation?
 
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Reddevil91

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Do you have a new style mini starter? You could eliminate the solenoid altogether and use a 30 amp relay to get power to the starter mounted solenoid. @Mustang5L5 helped me out through that process. I liked it better that having the whole solenoid inside the fender.

For the grounds, I ran one additional wire from the negative terminal into the fender well and attached to a bolt I installed on some clean metal. I attached everything else to that bolt. May be a little different if you’re moving your battery.

Do have a pic of the brake lines under the pinch weld? I’m redoing my brake lines now, and may want to go that route as well!
I do have one of the lmr mini starters. I’m trying to figure this all out but it’s gonna be slow process lol. Maybe once I get all the battery relocation stuff in and ran, it will make connecting everything a little easier. On the brake lines i didn’t do much besides just loosen the tabs and work them under the pinch, then stuff the harness under it as well. Looks better, not causing any crazy stress on the brake lines.
08CCC493-BC4C-497A-8237-74F606411360.jpeg
C8879091-CCAF-4746-8DFA-C8D7933F399E.jpeg
 

Reddevil91

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Now that I think of it though, the car is up on stands at the subframes, I wonder when it squats back down if I’ll have anything bad happen to those brake lines???
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Now that I think of it though, the car is up on stands at the subframes, I wonder when it squats back down if I’ll have anything bad happen to those brake lines???
The flex lines allow for the movement of the suspension and calipers. I don’t see why that would harm those lines, but I guess I’d keep an eye out to be sure when you let it down.
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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That line should be fine under there. If you're worried about rubbing you could split a little rubber vacuum hose and make pads for the line.

That car is so clean. I don't know how you guys do it. My stuff could never stay that clean.
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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I've split vac line and zip tied them to my SS braided lines where I think they would possibly rub. It's a good way to check if there's contact as you'll see the rubbing on the vac line well before it gets to the SS line. Once the car is down, you should do a visual inspection anyway and bend the tabs holding the line to move the lines away from contact points.
 

Reddevil91

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Mounted the solenoid in the fender hopefully it’s a good spot idk guess I’ll find out when I try and get the liner once all this is finished, but ran into a problem with the starter cable being about 2 inches short! Those damn 2 inches!!!! I have a 91 and it’s the original cable, but have the mini starter now, is the cable say lmr has made now for the 92-93 cars longer? Can I just make my own cable? If so what gauge wire should I use?
4B39B6BE-CF5B-470D-AB3B-1742E85997F7.jpeg
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
2,036
1,501
133
Long Island, NY
Mounted the solenoid in the fender hopefully it’s a good spot idk guess I’ll find out when I try and get the liner once all this is finished, but ran into a problem with the starter cable being about 2 inches short! Those damn 2 inches!!!! I have a 91 and it’s the original cable, but have the mini starter now, is the cable say lmr has made now for the 92-93 cars longer? Can I just make my own cable? If so what gauge wire should I use?
4B39B6BE-CF5B-470D-AB3B-1742E85997F7.jpeg
I made my own when I did mine. I used 4gauge, and I think the trigger wire was 10 gauge.
I got my cable from here, and it was pretty nice stuff!
 

Reddevil91

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I made my own when I did mine. I used 4gauge, and I think the trigger wire was 10 gauge.
I got my cable from here, and it was pretty nice stuff!
What do you mean trigger wire? I have the small I think 10 or 14g wire from the starter to one post solo as seen in that lmr pic, then everything else would be to the opposite post including the old starter cable but I’m just short. Looking at the lmr one it just looks like maybe a 4g red cable? I’d rather update that early 90s cable if I could do so that easy. I could be wrong but I thought that cable or the cable that the 92-93s ran was actually slightly longer bc of the fact they ran mini starters compared to the 91 and earlier models since they still ran that tank of a starter. To be honest I wish I could just order that painless wiring setup and have the entire car rewired! Maybe once I actually pull the motor whenever that be, I’ll redo the entire engine bay, to a legit tuck and have all new wiring idk. So I could pick up some 4g wire and just cut it to length then?
CCFF7A8A-41EF-4876-BFF2-B8C4997C3561.jpeg
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I made my own cables when I swapped to the mini starter, it's in my thread, I'll look for it :runaway:
Well it's on the first page, I did the jumper thing on the mini starter which I don't recommend, run the 10ga (I believe) from the solenoid to the starter, I will when it goes back together.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
2,036
1,501
133
Long Island, NY
What do you mean trigger wire? I have the small I think 10 or 14g wire from the starter to one post solo as seen in that lmr pic, then everything else would be to the opposite post including the old starter cable but I’m just short. Looking at the lmr one it just looks like maybe a 4g red cable? I’d rather update that early 90s cable if I could do so that easy. I could be wrong but I thought that cable or the cable that the 92-93s ran was actually slightly longer bc of the fact they ran mini starters compared to the 91 and earlier models since they still ran that tank of a starter. To be honest I wish I could just order that painless wiring setup and have the entire car rewired! Maybe once I actually pull the motor whenever that be, I’ll redo the entire engine bay, to a legit tuck and have all new wiring idk. So I could pick up some 4g wire and just cut it to length then?
CCFF7A8A-41EF-4876-BFF2-B8C4997C3561.jpeg
I ordered mine to length with the ends already on (I think). By trigger wire, I meant the 10g going from the solenoid down to the starter.