Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

[mikestang63]

ran into the same problem. you have 3 choices
1. buy the 93 cable that is longer
2. make your own cable
3. get a short piece of cable and a junction box to bridge the gap

 

[90sickfox]

The factory starter cable runs under the core support, right ?

If so you could relocate it to run above the rack and pinion, under the oil pan.

I made my own and haven't seen a factory cable in years.

 

[General karthief]

My 89 factory cable runs just in front of the oil pan, both hangers bolt to the engine.

 

[Reddevil91]

My 89 factory cable runs just in front of the oil pan, both hangers bolt to the engine.

Yup same as mine, bought a longer 4g starter cable. It’s hard to tell though, now that I have it bolted on if it’s slightly touching the post where the small wire is connected.

 

[Reddevil91]

In a standstill while waiting for my 1/0 cables to come in to do the battery relocation. Then what happens I come across a deal that was to good to pass from a guy who decide to go back to straight up old school carb and nitrous, so he sold me his pro-m setup. There’s good and bad!! The good- it was a super deal, coil on plug set up and I got the ecu, coil packs, the Mallory billet distributor, harness etc. The bad- Well now I need to back track my wire tuck but on the passenger side so it’s not the worst. The harness was run on an 86 and pro-m makes the year specific. I talked with Chris at pro-m and he said could one make the harness work on my 91 yes, would he do it no bc it gonna be a pita and need re-pinning etc etc. Idk maybe that’s just a sales man saying that to get some one to buy a new harness right? Anyways electrical is way above my doing so I’d have no idea how to do that. I have found two 91-93 specific pro-m harness else where both for really good deals, making me way ahead of the game VS buying a new setup from pro-m by far. One harness is just a regular straight forward setup, the other harness is a coil on plug ready setup and the guy has a bunch of extra goodies as well such as the coils, coil mounts for valve covers, another billet cap w/ shutter wheel, valve covers, short wires for the coil to plug etc. So here’s the real question for you all, is coil on plug really worth it? I’m stuck between the two and not sure which is best. I have the set up and capability to run the system with just a regular set up or run it as Coil on Plug, plus now I have found the specific 91-93 harness to which I can buy the regular harness and go or buy the other 91-93 harness ready to go for COP, but I’d have to do the valve cover process, probably pull the intake and put a bigger spacer since I don’t think I’d have room on the drivers side as the coils would hit the intake. I know the forums are all over in here which system wise to use; Pimp vs Holley vs Pro-m vs idk who else. I liked the pro-m set up but got damn buying the unit outright is hella pricey. This deal was just way to good to pass and I can always flip it if I decided this was not what I wanted to do, but I want to run this system so it worked out. For those who have better knowledge or know of ppl using this coil on plug style set up, would you run it? Why or why not? Is it all that much better? Again my car is no track car, it’s a cruiser, would like a blower whenever that happens lol but is the coil on plug just really to much for my application? Let me hear those thoughts and opinions on this, thanks!! This is the pic of what I got currently, but I’d rather buy one of the other 2 91-93 specific harnesses then I could just sell off this harness, blow through tube etc depending if decide to not run coil on plug. Damn this turned out to be a long drawn out speech sorry!

 

[Reddevil91]

Cables are in, now the fun part of trying to route these suckers. Also bought these distribution blocks, they are also bigger than I was thinking they would be. Thinking I kinda have them figured out but surely gonna ask questions once I get to installing to make sure I’m doing everything right

 

[Reddevil91]

Also trying to figure where these big ass cables are going to run out through. Is it through any of these circled areas?

 

[mikestang63]

i used a right angle drill and cut a hole in the rear of the driver shock tower, used door edge molding around the perimeter of the hole and ran most of the wires through there for a straight shot for the wire tuck. For the cables that run to the rear mounted battery, you can either run them in through the car through the grommet and then down along the door sill plate under the carpet and then bring it across in the trunk/hatch. Or, run it underneath the car along the subbrame connector or pinch welds using insulated P clamps. I chose to not want the cables inside the car and ran them underneath. If possible I would run both a negative and positive all the way back to the battery- Negative from the block and positive from the junction block. I would also add a chassis ground from the block to the chassis where the stock negative cable ran.

 

[Reddevil91]

i used a right angle drill and cut a hole in the rear of the driver shock tower, used door edge molding around the perimeter of the hole and ran most of the wires through there for a straight shot for the wire tuck. For the cables that run to the rear mounted battery, you can either run them in through the car through the grommet and then down along the door sill plate under the carpet and then bring it across in the trunk/hatch. Or, run it underneath the car along the subbrame connector or pinch welds using insulated P clamps. I chose to not want the cables inside the car and ran them underneath. If possible I would run both a negative and positive all the way back to the battery- Negative from the block and positive from the junction block. I would also add a chassis ground from the block to the chassis where the stock negative cable ran.

Running underneath the car, where did you enter back into the car? I have 25ft of both and that was my plan was running both from front to back, I’m liking the idea of under the car VS those big cables under the carpet which might look noticeable. Did you cover the cables with anything since you went underneath? I’m guessing you mean these clamps?

 

[mikestang63]

yes, i covered the cables with wire loom. There is a hole in the trunk that you can use on the passenger side.

 

[Reddevil91]

Would it be a bad idea to pull this plug, drill a hole throw a grommet in and run the cables through it, along the underside of the car up to the junction boxes? It seems very then like you could almost poke through under the rear seat. I was thinking running the cables under the carpet, between the seat back board, then I could run through that area I was talking about, and up under the car to the front. That way I don’t have To pull up the carpet and try to run it through the fire wall?

 

[Rdub6]

Would it be a bad idea to pull this plug, drill a hole throw a grommet in and run the cables through it, along the underside of the car up to the junction boxes? It seems very then like you could almost poke through under the rear seat. I was thinking running the cables under the carpet, between the seat back board, then I could run through that area I was talking about, and up under the car to the front. That way I don’t have To pull up the carpet and try to run it through the fire wall?

If I’m seeing it right, that is a rubber plug. So you can probably just use that to go through with no need for another grommet.

 

[Reddevil91]

If I’m seeing it right, that is a rubber plug. So you can probably just use that to go through with no need for another grommet.

Yup that’s correct Idk why it’s there though

 

[Rdub6]

Yup that’s correct Idk why it’s there though

I think it’s just one of those plugs that aided them along the assembly line. There’s several plugs in the floor pans that really don’t make sense once the car is put together.

 

[Reddevil91]

Slowly making progress on this battery project. Got the box mounted where I want, mega fuse attached, so power cable will run from solenoid back, to the mega fuse, then other positive from mega fuse to terminal. Since I bolted up to the body as far as the posts, could I just run the ground to the post and then also have my negative cable connected to the same point and up to the battery? That’s how I saw this guy do it. So in my head it sounds right but maybe now. Plan: Big negative cable runs from the front of the car off a junction box, the original 4g battery cable from the block bolts to one end of the junction box, I can tie in all the other fender mounted grounds to the junctions box, and my big cable runs from said junction box back to the battery box, ground to the post, also attach my negative battery cable and bolt it down. Is that going to be proper? I’ve seen some other guys ground to the seat belt bolt or around the rear shock area ass, then same thing, ground to one of those areas, attach negative cable to same spot, bolt it down and connect to battery.

 

[Reddevil91]

How I was thinking

 

[Reddevil91]

Here is another way I thought about doing it, will this work? Don’t laugh at the detailed diagram

 

[OldManRiver]

If still wanting to use the solenoid I would use the distribution block up front for the pos.cable to have a place to attach other accessories needing power,use the same lug in the distribution block for battery + and solenoid .
Just run the ground to the apron or frame rail then to block.
Out back I believe I used the seat belt attachment point for the ground point,just opened up the hole in the lug.
Good luck

 

[Reddevil91]

Alright guys so i am planning on running the Pro- m system in my car, I watched the owner Chris’s video on the the setup process, and around 22:50 he talks about battery connections and grounds. He states if you are doing a rear mounted battery install, to run the Negative cable from the post in the rear all the up to the block, and then a cable from the block to the chassis. So currently have it set up from the negative post in the back all the way up front mounted to the block where the old negative 4g battery cable was mounted. I figured I could then attach the old 4g cable at the same spot and run up under the fender well area and attach it to the chassis. I’ve seen different techniques on this, and I know there is some great diagrams like @jrichker puts out, and for many of you this is all easy to understand. For me it’s kinda like wtf? Pics and vids make it easy lol but would this be suffice for my grounds. In the video he states that if it’s not done this way then you will get a high resistance connection which in turn will mess with your fuel injection system. Also is the 4g cable from the block to the chassis good enough or do I need a thicker gauge for the one?

View: https://youtu.be/odw3tuvx2oc

 

[jrichker]

@Reddevil91


Rear mounted battery wiring recommendations

For a battery cut off switch, see https://www.moroso.com/catalog/pro...rnator-disconnect-switch74108/category/3114/
is the switch
https://www.moroso.com/pub/media/instructions/74108_instweb.pdf is the installation instructions.

Switch picture...

Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg