Progress Thread Problem removing AC line at condenser

Does anyone know exactly what size tool I should be using... looks/feels like both the 3/8 and 1/2 tool depresses the spring but I can’t get it to budge... it’s loose at other end and I can manipulate and pull it well but don’t wanna screw up connector on condenser for darn sure... haven’t seen anyone else say they’ve had any trouble.. thanks guys... I feel stupid, have purchased several different types of tools and the cheap plastic ones seem to fit best... any advise welcomed please!
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Does anyone know exactly what size tool I should be using... looks/feels like both the 3/8 and 1/2 tool depresses the spring but I can’t get it to budge... it’s loose at other end and I can manipulate and pull it well but don’t wanna screw up connector on condenser for darn sure... haven’t seen anyone else say they’ve had any trouble.. thanks guys... I feel stupid, have purchased several different types of tools and the cheap plastic ones seem to fit best... any advise welcomed please!
5C013203-BFA9-4D0D-9C1F-B27FC8EEC5C1.webp

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRTjYAxvaCs
 
Oh I understand how to use the tool, all the others have come loose without much trouble... I figure someone else has had same problem with them.... General carthief, it is loose at other end and when pulling/twisting simultaneously still it doesn’t appear to budge... I’m hoping someone knows exactly which size tool is required for that particular connection as ford seems to use different size connectors on the same size lines, so fuel lines CAN’T get crossed I suppose.... surely someone has had same trouble and perhaps remembers is it a 3/8 or 1/2.
Thank you gentlemen
 
I took this pic a while back so I'd know what sizes the spring lock fittings were for when I finally get around to getting my AC hooked up again. Looks like 3/8 for the compressor to condenser line and 1/2 for the dryer to condenser line.

I'm sure a more knowledgeable member can tell you for sure what sizes they are but here's the pic I took in case it helps you in the meantime :)

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I took this pic a while back so I'd know what sizes the spring lock fittings were for when I finally get around to getting my AC hooked up again. Looks like 3/8 for the compressor to condenser line and 1/2 for the dryer to condenser line.

I'm sure a more knowledgeable member can tell you for sure what sizes they are but here's the pic I took in case it helps you in the meantime :)

zjiDvekYg31F9DGiVS2pWB1z0n8WwMKdOmvCjJ11Ga7TCDQFSw-LzGskfXqaN9MqMBILc21fuaqRHiEWflW=w847-h635...webp


Ok thanks, I have that same set, as well as others ... is the 1/2” the one going to condenser at firewall? Other end of this line goes to evaporator coil at radiator and runs past headers...the one at firewall is the one I can’t get... driving me crazy... I got another line because I’m thinking I may have to cut this one to get better leverage and not damage condenser “nipple”...


Looks like 1/2" & 5/8"

3/8" isn't anywhere on the picture...

5/8 seems way too big jrichker?

Any suggestions, other than let someone else work on it?? Although you’d probably be right!
 
Looks like 1/2" & 5/8"

3/8" isn't anywhere on the picture...
Ah yes I was typing quickly and put in 3/8 instead of 5/8 :confused:

If you have the same set of disconnect tools, it should have the one you need. Once you get one that fits good around the line you're trying to remove then it should work just fine. It just needs to be able to spread the spring inside far enough to allow the flared end of the line to release.

Like @General karthief said, they are just a big pain to get off when they've been on for years. I remember the one at the firewall being especially tough because there's so little room to even get the tool on.

I think the big thing is just making sure you have the disconnect tool engaged to release the spring as you're manhandling it. If you can get an extra set of hands to hold the tool in place while you try wiggling and pulling the line off you should be able to get it. Good luck man!
 
I had a hell of a time getting 2 of the hoses off when I serviced the AC on my Mach 1. I ended up getting a disconnect set similar to these:
Amazon product ASIN B00RGNMM4QView: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63800-Spring-Coupler-Disconnect/dp/B00RGNMM4Q


They worked WAY better than any other disconnect tool I tried but they are big and bulky so they don't fit well everywhere.


Yes I believe it is the 1/2 inch size tool, I can’t get proper leverage to keep spring depressed while manipulating the line, combined with my NOT being a mechanic is not helping. At this point I’m just going to NOT break it and try to get someone that is a mechanic to help me out.
 
Have you had anybody try helping you hold the release tool in place while you wiggle/pull on it? I'd hate to see you so close to getting it off and have to take it in to a shop!

One last thing you could try is to take a pick tool and try to remove the spring. You'll ruin the spring if you're able to do it, but then there'll be nothing left but to pull the fitting apart since nothing would be in there to hold it in place.

I don't recommend that approach unless you're replacing the line/fitting since you'll need to find another spring to reinstall, but if you've tried everything else and still can't get it off it might be a last ditch option. :shrug:
 
Have you had anybody try helping you hold the release tool in place while you wiggle/pull on it? I'd hate to see you so close to getting it off and have to take it in to a shop!

One last thing you could try is to take a pick tool and try to remove the spring. You'll ruin the spring if you're able to do it, but then there'll be nothing left but to pull the fitting apart since nothing would be in there to hold it in place.

I don't recommend that approach unless you're replacing the line/fitting since you'll need to find another spring to reinstall, but if you've tried everything else and still can't get it off it might be a last ditch option. :shrug:

Hmm I do have another line and a oring kit with new springs I have had help for about 1/2 an hour... I think that also may be the ticket (help)... I’ll get some help before I pay a shop for such, would be embarrassing lol.
Thank you all for input... I think I knew the answer to start with but thought maybe someone had a tip I hadn’t heard of
 
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Just in time for cool weather I finally got it!! ☺️
no surprises just the most stuck sob any one that helped ever saw... screen finally popped over lock “hump” but couldn’t feel or tell it... then took a ton of wiggling and pulling with several over night spray lube baths but finally came free!!
Thanks guys!

Now I need to know if you guys with AC rerouted that same line or had new line made to clear headers?? I’ve never paid attention at shows and such to be honest... thanks again everyone!!
 
It won't clear your headers? That ac stuff is one of the things on my list, that keeps getting longer, I still have my old one but the insulation is falling off.

It will clear but I had to wrap that line (and accompanying vac tubes etc..) with some heat shield because it’s basically touching the eBay long (advertised as mid length) tube headers I have... they’re (headers) an exact match of the used long tubes I replaced that were allegedly by Mac but were ill fitting at head.. new headers fit existing H pipe I had and everything so I was very pleased there... one of the few things that have went my way... at any rate I’m sure the system was probably not as efficient with that line getting so much hotter than stock setup plus whole system needed new O rings and servicing anyway... would leak out in a just couple of days.. both hoses leaking on evap end...

In my opinion if keeping AC with long tube headers that line (hose?) should be relocated some how... but clocking stock line so it’s away from header will look junky IMO so I need to find a solution before about May ...
need to make new post asking how others have handled this ... is a new line cheap to have made?? I have no idea...
Thanks again guys!