Problems After Clutch Change...

Adam95GT

New Member

Aug 14, 2006

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Burlington, NJ

Nov 22, 2006

#1

• Nov 22, 2006

• #1

Just when i thought everything was right... The clutch slips under heavy load... say in in 3rd going 25 and give it gas... it wont move rpms stay the same... i hear a little pop from under the car... it moves a little bit and does it again... the only thing i noticed that was weird when i reinstalled the clutch was slack in the clutch cable where it meets the clutch fork the clutch also felt realy weird at first...... is there any way to adjust it... do you think this is the problem.... But off the top of my head would slack in the line cause problems dissengaging... not the other way around... it runs fine most of the time...no oil leak from the rear main seal i replaced or anything... the fly wheel was resurfaced... new clutch disk, new tob, new rear main, new preasure plate... and i cleaned everything off with break cleaner... you think it jsut needs to be broken in more possibly... ive only put 100miles on it... and ive been going easy as hell

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

Founding Member

Sep 24, 2002

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Syracuse, NY

Nov 22, 2006

#2

• Nov 22, 2006

• #2

break in with new flywheel (resurfaces) clutch + PP is around 500mi so it could still just be that


if you think adjustment is funny you could switch out the stock quadrant for an aftermarket alum one along with a firewall adjuster


sidenote-when i removed my clutch and stuff after about 3-4K miles you could still those new "grooves" in my FMS HD pressure plate so it takes a while for them to break in and properly seat

 

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

10 Year Member

Jan 8, 2006

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Louisiana

Nov 22, 2006

#3

• Nov 22, 2006

• #3

If you decide you need a fire wall adjuster and an adjustable quad, I have both laying around. Brand new. PM me.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Nov 22, 2006

#4

• Nov 22, 2006

• #4

Um yeah, I'd take it easy on the thing for a bit (no WOT runs in 3rd). Organic disks need some time to bed in.

I agree with you Adam about your adjustment quandry. If anything, the slack would keep you from disengaging, but it ensures you're not 'slipping' because of the cable adjustment. I set clutch adjustments a little loose after a new clutch install myself (they often need an adjustment after a week or so anyhow).

Good luck.

BTW, did a mod nicely remove your thread yesterday? I saw that it was gone. It was a nice idea but just doesn't fly on here (rightfully so - or spammers would go nuts).

 

Adam95GT

New Member

Aug 14, 2006

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Burlington, NJ

Nov 22, 2006

#5

• Nov 22, 2006

• #5

I dont really think its the clutch any more... as its under load its complete ass now... i think it might be a ditsy... i just went and changed my plugs and wires..... plugs were like ass... when i rev i kinda hear it breaking up... im thinking cap and rotor... its been rainy as hell... the car sat for awhile... its making sense... but its breaking up bad at about 2k... the clutch is grabbing... i can feel it catch... if it was slipping the rpms would go up... but they are remaining the same... what you guys think... i did take off the cover for the shift fork... the cable seemed ok.. i looked inside the whole at the preasure plate... while someone pushed the clutch on the lift... TOB is moving fine.... fingers on preasure plate are perfect...

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

Founding Member

Sep 24, 2002

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69

Syracuse, NY

Nov 22, 2006

#6

• Nov 22, 2006

• #6

make sure you didnt mix up any of the plug wires

 

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

10 Year Member

Jan 8, 2006

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Louisiana

Nov 22, 2006

#7

• Nov 22, 2006

• #7

Sounds non-clutch related to me.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Nov 22, 2006

#8

• Nov 22, 2006

• #8

If you think it's the PIP (the reason most folks replace the dizzy) a test that sometimes works:

First run a magnet around inside the bowl. If your magnet has lots of shavings stuck to it, that suggests the dizzy bearing is on the outs and you have some run-out.

You can also douche inside the dizzy bowl with electrical contact cleaner. This can help clean up the PIP interface. If that helps but issues return shortly thereafter, the PIP might be on the outs.

Pulling codes is always good too.

Good luck.

 

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

10 Year Member

Jan 8, 2006

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Louisiana

Nov 22, 2006

#9

• Nov 22, 2006

• #9

HISSIN50 said:

You can also douche

Click to expand...

That fixed some little problems I had.


not with my car though......

 

diablostang

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Sep 21, 2004

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Raleigh, NC

Nov 22, 2006

#10

• Nov 22, 2006

• #10

Sounds like you have 2 problems. The first would be an improperly adjusted clutch, and the second sounds like you might have mixed up some plugs, or I dunno, maybe the dizzy prob people mentioned above..


When you installed your clutch, did you re-adjust the pedal? If so, it sounds like you need to get an aftermarket adjustable cable. If you do that, I wouldn't even waste the money on a firewall adjuster. Just go get a Steeda adjustable cable for like $40, and be done with it. You shouldn't have any slack in the clutch cable when the clutch pedal is not engaged.

PM me if you need more clarification or help.

 

Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006

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Burlington, NJ

Nov 23, 2006

#11

• Nov 23, 2006

• #11

Well cap and rotor did nothing... im sure i didnt mess up the clutch... its backfiring when i rev it and its sluggish as hell i cant drive it under any load just putting it in to first gives it trouble... in nutral when i rev it sounds horrible.. idle seems to be fine still but any rev causes it to back fire/pop.... any ideas... i just did plugs,wires,car,rotor... im thinking either ditsy or fuel related...

we tested the ditsy polls with one of thoes tester lights hooked to a the negative terminal... touched the center poll and the car sputtered and died down... i was told it was suposed to do that... thes rest of the polls there was no change... i did see a little spark though... i dont know if this helps... my mechanic said that that usually means the cap and rotor need to be replaced...

 

Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006

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Burlington, NJ

Nov 23, 2006

#12

• Nov 23, 2006

• #12

diablostang said:

Sounds like you have 2 problems. The first would be an improperly adjusted clutch, and the second sounds like you might have mixed up some plugs, or I dunno, maybe the dizzy prob people mentioned above..


When you installed your clutch, did you re-adjust the pedal? If so, it sounds like you need to get an aftermarket adjustable cable. If you do that, I wouldn't even waste the money on a firewall adjuster. Just go get a Steeda adjustable cable for like $40, and be done with it. You shouldn't have any slack in the clutch cable when the clutch pedal is not engaged.

PM me if you need more clarification or help.

Click to expand...

The clutch line is fine now... it was just a guess on my part... i checked it when i had it in the air... no problems no slack... Im just glad i didnt mess **** up doing the clutch

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Sep 24, 2002

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Syracuse, NY

Nov 23, 2006

#13

• Nov 23, 2006

• #13

double & tripple check you didnt mix up any plug wires. thats what it sounds liek to me

 

Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006

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Burlington, NJ

Nov 23, 2006

#14

• Nov 23, 2006

• #14

urban96 said:

double & tripple check you didnt mix up any plug wires. thats what it sounds liek to me

Click to expand...

Just did they are all perfect... This was hapening b4 i change the wires... its just gotten worse...


i was getting a cel everyonce in awhile but it went away b4 i ever got a chance to pull it... i hooked up the snap on code reader... and got like 11 no codes found or 111 or something like that.... i was doing some reading and i got posibly egr valve... would leaving my smog line to the cats unplugged cause this... it was running fine with it like this no problems... the only thing i can think of is ditsy or egr off the top of my head... maybe fuel pump or filter... But it sounds more like a spark problem to me... but yea


MSD cap and rotor.... FRPP 9mm Wires and motor craft plugs and 0 Difference...

 

Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006

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Burlington, NJ

Nov 23, 2006

#15

• Nov 23, 2006

• #15

Alright just went over and checked everything again... seems to be getting spark... but when i hit on the throttle just a little bit it stumbled really really bad... only for a little... then it stopped... im starting to think with all the ****ty weather maybe water in the gas... i just went out and bought some dry gas... i guess ill keep you guys informed... egr valve moves when i rev the car..

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

Founding Member

Sep 24, 2002

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Syracuse, NY

Nov 23, 2006

#16

• Nov 23, 2006

• #16

make sure all sensors are plugged in also

 

Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006

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Burlington, NJ

Nov 23, 2006

#17

• Nov 23, 2006

• #17

The wires are fine... I put that STP water remover in the car and went and put $5 of 93 octane in it... went for a drive and it was still stumbling.. .got it home and held it at 3k for about 5 minutes... then let it idle some more... took it for a drive and the problem is gone... i hope this solved it for good