Would an exhaust leak from the headers to the h pipe cause this issue. It's the only thing I can think of. I can feel by the ball and socket that one side of the flange is tighter than the other. So far I've checked for vacuum leaks found nothing but I don't have a smoke machine(never touched any lines when changing the h pipe and o2 harness though), checked timing with no luck, tried unplugging the mass air, O2 harness and iac no change. It's starts right up, surges up and down till it gets extreme then stalls, strong fuel smell and has trouble starting again without the help of the accelerator.
Problems after exhaust install and 02 harness
- Thread starter djj62478
- Start date
Sorry you haven't been able to get it squared out,if i lived near you i would offer to help but im several states away, no, a exhaust leak wouldn't do this, it would sound funny and yes,the car wouldn't run totally perfect but it wouldn't do what you mention,cars run fine with exhaust leaks all the time, have you unplugged your vacuum line to your regulator and see if you can smell fuel? i know you said you checked vacuum lines but have you checked under the intake with a flashlight? ,sometimes lines there get brittle and crack.
Kinda sounds like a fuel issue,be nice if you could check and see how much fuel you are getting at the rails.
Kinda sounds like a fuel issue,be nice if you could check and see how much fuel you are getting at the rails.
Can anyone tell me what these connectors go to? The first pics are of a plug with a 2 wires green with black and black with yellow, it's near the coil area. The second plus is also 2 wires grey with yellow and red and it's near the passenger side fuel rail attached to another 2 wire plug. Just wondering if one of these not plugged in might be a culprit or not.
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Also something new just occurred now the car will surge like crazy but if I keep feathering the gas to keep it alive after about 2 minutes it will stable out and idle at about 750 with no problems whatsoever then after about a minute of idling smooth with no issues it'll start to hunt again until it dies. Don't know if that helps anyone rule anything out? Oh and it's dumping so much fuel out will make your eyes melt....
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Might want to check it. I use this and a q-tip:
www.crcindustries.com
I believe there are videos on YouTube on how to do it. The element is delicate.
CRC QD Electronic Cleaner
CRC QD Electronic Cleaner is a petroleum distillate / alcohol based precision cleaner designed as an alternative to CFC based cleaners. Plastic safe.
www.crcindustries.com
I believe there are videos on YouTube on how to do it. The element is delicate.
Those are the plugs for your charcoal canister (emisions), i believe they should be plugged together , unless the system is not there anymore, on my 91 last year i put all that stuff back on,it had been off for decades and i just got tired of the smell of gas in my garage and while driving.
Reading your comment a bit more carefully I'm certain picture number 3 is for the charcoal canister because that connector and the one for the temperature sensor for the PCM are wired very close to each other and it plugs in to a plug identical to the other pictures you show.
Reading your comment a bit more carefully I'm certain picture number 3 is for the charcoal canister because that connector and the one for the temperature sensor for the PCM are wired very close to each other and it plugs in to a plug identical to the other pictures you show.
Yeah, thats what those connectors are for,no worries there, thats not your problem, that was a great idea Aero suggested, clean that mass air meter, its a simple procedure, i can take mine off without taking the mass air system of the car,just unplug it,take your screws off, i believe they are torx and VERY GENTLY pull the unit up and out of the housing and spray a Qtip and gently clean the sensors and put it back together, those sensor can get pretty dirty.
Sometimes when we do a repair on our cars something else just breaks and its pure coincidence that happens to something totally unrelated to what we were working on originally, been there, done that,it happens, not saying this is the cause but have you ever had your computer out and looked at your capacitors? these cars are getting up in age where the computers are failing,most of the time will be a fuel pump that will stay running constantly or idle issues etc
Sometimes when we do a repair on our cars something else just breaks and its pure coincidence that happens to something totally unrelated to what we were working on originally, been there, done that,it happens, not saying this is the cause but have you ever had your computer out and looked at your capacitors? these cars are getting up in age where the computers are failing,most of the time will be a fuel pump that will stay running constantly or idle issues etc
Lots of threads on here with failed ECU’s just due to age. Most send them to the ECU Exchange.
www.theecuexchange.com
1986-2004 Ford Mustang A9L A9P ECU Repair Service
1986-2004 Ford Mustang A9L A9P ECU Repair Service Engine Computer Repair Please fill out the R&R form here once you've placed your order.ORInclude a note in the box with your order number and vehicle symptoms.A Trusted Product with LIFETIME WARRANTY QUICK TURN AROUND TIMEDomestic and...
www.theecuexchange.com
Haven't had much time to mess with the car until yesterday so here's and update. I bought mass air cleaner, cleaned it and it started up, revved up to about 1300 quickly then dropped down and seemed to hold an idle. As I let it warm up it slowly crept up and down but very minimum. Then it started going from about 1200 to 500 or so and surged in that range, never dropped low enough to stall this time though. Went and pulled the mass air plug out feel on it's face and died. Started it back up pulled the plug and it ran as stated earlier. Cleaned the mass air again and sand situation. This time though when i pulled the mass air out started surging bad and died then loaded up on fuel and won't start again without help from the throttle. No vacuum leaks and I'm not sure if a bad O2 would do this.
Well... It seems to me that you've eliminated the question of whether the MAF is feeding the ECU. - Check No reason to repeat that step.
It does not tell you whether the MAF is sending out good signals or not.
My next step would be to clear the CAM, hook it all back up and start doing ECU tests and pulling codes.
Do you have one of these?
It does not tell you whether the MAF is sending out good signals or not.
My next step would be to clear the CAM, hook it all back up and start doing ECU tests and pulling codes.
Do you have one of these?
Check the vac lines to and from the purge canister, check valve operation, I'm guessing a vacuum leak.
The first thing I notice is that the car doesn't seem to have been fully warm when you ran the tests.
After that, I would [highly] recommend that you run JRichker's Surging Idle Checklist:
After that, I would [highly] recommend that you run JRichker's Surging Idle Checklist:
KOEO
Code 51 - ECT sensor out of range indicated/circuit open
You can unplug the sensor and use a jumper wire across the plug. Run the KOEO again you should get a Code 61 of the wiring is good which eliminates the open circuit.
Code 66 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor voltage is below the minimum allowable limit
Code 85 - Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure
I have heard that you can use a 75 Ω 3-Watt resistor in the CANP connector and it'll clear the code 85. If that does clear the code then you know the solenoid is bad.
Code 96 - Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power
KOER
Code 21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is out of its self-test range
Same as above
Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Code 41 - O2 indicates passenger side system lean
Code 51 - ECT sensor out of range indicated/circuit open
You can unplug the sensor and use a jumper wire across the plug. Run the KOEO again you should get a Code 61 of the wiring is good which eliminates the open circuit.
Code 66 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor voltage is below the minimum allowable limit
Code 85 - Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure
I have heard that you can use a 75 Ω 3-Watt resistor in the CANP connector and it'll clear the code 85. If that does clear the code then you know the solenoid is bad.
Code 96 - Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power
KOER
Code 21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is out of its self-test range
Same as above
Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Code 41 - O2 indicates passenger side system lean
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