problems bleeding brakes

Their is still air in the system, try bleeding them again (the method you used was correct) Make sure the master cylinder is never low when bleeding, no need to put the hose in brake fluid, you just need something there as a catch can..

If you have neglected to change your brake fluid periodically you could have absored to much water (since brake fluid is hydroscopic it absorbs water). You can reach the limit of water absorbtion and get condinsation in the lines and reduce the boiling point of the fluid. Any way what i am getting at is if you have excessive water build up in the master it would cause rust, and pitting inside if when you where bleeding the brakes you pushed your pedal all the way to the floor you could have harmed the primary and secodary piston seals in the master. This would cause internal leaks in the master and fluid to bypass the seals (acting like air in the system.)

Just to throw in a pointer when i bleed brakes i always stick my foot or somting under the pedal so it doesnt go to the floor. Rust tends to build up where the pistons never really travel. (Your brake pedal never hits the floor when your driving around)

I would try the air intrapment test first. Open the master cylinder cap, pump up your brakes alot hold the pedal down (your may need another person) then let go of the pedal and see if fluid squirts up out of the master. If fluid squirts up you have got air. Rebleed the system again. If no fluid squirts up then you probably toasted your master and i would buy a new one.

GOOD LUCK
I hope you understand this

89rdgt, i think you mean "hygroscopic" - not hydroscopic.

somthing else that might help: go get a mitivac and do it that way. either that or Mike's idea should work fine ( i dont have experience with the check valve bleeders).

good luck.

Best $25 fix for brake bleeding problems you can get...

Garden Sprayer Pressure Bake Bleeder

1 each pump type garden sprayer, 1 - 1 ½ gallon capacity (size doesn’t matter much, it just has to be cheap and small enough to be easy to work with)
6-10 feet 3/8” clear plastic tubing
1 each ¼” brass pipe tee
1 each ¼” pipe to 3/8: hose adapter
1 each pressure gauge 0-60 PSI or so – all you’ll ever need is 5- 10 PSI, so the gauge range doesn’t have to be high.
1 each large rubber stopper – this is the hard part to find. It may take some searching to find one that is a snug push fit to the inside of the filler port on the master cylinder. You can use silicone rubber to seal a brass fitting to an old master cylinder cap, but they tend to leak too much.
Home Depot or Lowes has some ¼” brass pipe stock that is continuously threaded in the electric lamp repair department, along with the brass nuts that go with it. This is better than a pipe nipple, since the nuts can be used to secure the pipe in the cap or stopper.
OR if you can’t find the threaded pipe stock,
1 each ¼” nipple, 1 ½”- 2” long

The rubber stopper needs a hole drilled in it for the ¼” pipe nipple or threaded pipe stock. After you drill the hole, use some silicone gasket sealer to seal the pipe nipple as you push it into the rubber stopper. If you used the threaded pipe stock, use the nuts to secure the stock into the stopper.

If you can’t find a suitable rubber stopper, an old master cylinder cap can be used. Drill a ½” hole in the center for the pipe fitting. Cut the brass pipe stock to about 1”- 1 ½” long, the exact length isn’t too important. Push it through the hole in the master cylinder cap and thread one nut on top of the pipe stock where it sticks though the cap. Put another nut on the other side of the cap to lock the pipe stock in place. Apply some silicone rubber gasket sealer to both sides and when it is dry, screw the ¼” pipe that sticks out of the top of the cap into the tee.

Remove the sprayer hose and wand from the garden sprayer. You may find it easier just to cut the sprayer hose off short and connect it to the 3/8” plastic tubing. The idea is that the 3/8” tubing connects to the pickup tube inside the sprayer in a reliable, leak proof fashion. Another alternative is to remove the spray nozzle from the end of the spray wand and connect the 3/8” tubing to the wand. This leaves the hand valve in place and may be useful to start/stop the flow of brake fluid.

The 3/8” plastic tubing connects to the pipe tee using a push on hose barb type adapter. The pipe tee has one port for the gauge, one for the 3/8” hose and the other to connect to the rubber stopper or master cylinder cap that you modified.

Fill the pump sprayer with a quart of brake fluid. Set the garden sprayer on the ground and screw the pump handle down tight, and pump until brake fluid fills the plastic tubing. Then put the modified stopper or master cylinder cap on the master cylinder and pump slowly to make sure that nothing leaks or pops loose. No leaks, continue pumping until you get 5-10 PSI. Put a 6”-12” length of clear plastic tubing on the bleeder ports. Then open the bleeder ports on the wheel cylinders one at a time and bleed until the bubbles are gone. I use a 2 liter soda bottle with a coat hanger to catch the fluid . DO NOT REUSE THE OLD BRAKE FLUID. Repeat the process until you have finished all 4 wheels. You will have to pump the sprayer several times to maintain the 5-10 PSI needed to do the job. When finished bleeding, loosen the pump handle to relieve the pressure, remove the stopper/modified master cylinder cap and test the pedal.

Also do you know if you have front to rear split brakes or diagnoaly split (Right rear and left front/ left rear right front). If they are diagonaly split you should bleed left rear first then right front, then right rear and left front.