well i fixed the low idles stalling in gear.. But now when i turn wheel to sharp the idle drops and engine dies sometimes? I heard its common for this in fords but was wondering if there is anything to do? i upped the idle a little bit seemed to halp a tad.. Also my fan will not kick on for the life of me.. Unless i unhook the coolant temp sensor or have a /c heater on.. i replaced the coolant temp sensor to find out that it was a waist of my money.. also the temp gauge on my dash will not work? i know the engine is warming up for sure.. i also bleed the radiator air out. is there another coolant temp sensor? would the o2 sensor do this? i believe the thermostat is new since i got paper work for it when i bought the car and car didnt run when i got it so it was never used.. i believe the radiator system is working though seeing how the top hose is hotter tham fu** and bottom hose is cool.. but i need some suggestions or some pointers on what to do.. i cant be worrying about my car over heating, and or stalling while im turning... thanks much
@ problems idle/ cooling system
- Thread starter smallz33
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wmburns
SN Certified Technician
First, we shouldn't have to guess what MY (97).
How did you up the idle? If you altered the TB set screw that is not the correct way to adjust the idle and will only cause addtional problems when the weather changes.
How long has the car been driven since the repair? Remember that it takes time for the PCM to re-learn new Idle trim values.
Are you positive there isn't any vacuum leaks?
If there is air in the coolant cross over, the temperature sensor will read LOW and the FAN will NEVER turn on. How did you bleed the air from the coolant system? The fact that the dash guage reads low is further proof that the problem centers around the coolant sensor.
How many heat/cool cycles since the repair? My vote is air around the coolant sensor.
If the fan turns on when the temperature sensor is disconnected (or AC turned on), that proves the fan is working. What is the temperature as reported by the PCM?
No. An O2 sensor will not cause the fan problems. However, you seam to feel there is something wrong with your O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is very important to good running. So if it makes you feel better, replace it.
How did you up the idle? If you altered the TB set screw that is not the correct way to adjust the idle and will only cause addtional problems when the weather changes.
How long has the car been driven since the repair? Remember that it takes time for the PCM to re-learn new Idle trim values.
Are you positive there isn't any vacuum leaks?
If there is air in the coolant cross over, the temperature sensor will read LOW and the FAN will NEVER turn on. How did you bleed the air from the coolant system? The fact that the dash guage reads low is further proof that the problem centers around the coolant sensor.
How many heat/cool cycles since the repair? My vote is air around the coolant sensor.
If the fan turns on when the temperature sensor is disconnected (or AC turned on), that proves the fan is working. What is the temperature as reported by the PCM?
No. An O2 sensor will not cause the fan problems. However, you seam to feel there is something wrong with your O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is very important to good running. So if it makes you feel better, replace it.
well i took it for a couple mile drive and the n i got home turned ac and heater off and the fan was running with coolant temp sensor on... its running allot better i think i got to clena the idle air control sensor more i just whiped it off with a paper towel and put the gasket on thet they gave me with my intake manifold gasket set.. but it looked dirty so im going to take it back apart and clean it more.. i have no clue why the temp gauge wont work everything else seems to be working right no more stalling while steering or in drive or reverse.. i just wish i could tell why the temp gauge wont work... any one know what temp is suppose to be? i got a digital temp thermometer to check it as long as its in the right temp it should run fine im thinking there is a sensor or something else to do with my instrument gauge that is making this temp gauge not working... i replaced it so i know its not bad .. the old one was decayed.. but i took radiator cap off and waited for fluid to run out and it filled it to what it would take.. my fan is now working without ac or heater on wasnt before...would just like to know if it is in right temp.. there s a code that says 02 sensor says its running lean but it seems allot better after i changed the head.. but its a sixty dollar part .. any ideas on what bank one and bank 2 means? i dont wanna replace the wrong one.. and it says ignition coil a is malfunctioning or something all though i replaced coil... but i might just have to reset the codes also any idea on how to do this?i fixed head.. and 4 codes popped up in my saved but they all the same codes as before..? it says insufficient fuel temp on closed circut or something.. it runs great now though so im thinking i gotta reset the codes and see whats up
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Please post the entire DTC code. There are hundreds of them.
Clear the DTC codes with a ODB2 scanner or disconnect the battery. Expect the car to idle poorly until the idle trim values are re-learned.
Bank 1 is the right side. Bank 2 is the left side (Driver's).
The stock t-stat is 190-192.
Check for exhaust leaks. That will also cause a lean DTC. Esp around the EGR DPFE sensor.
I don't have wiring diagrams for the 97 MY. So I can't help you with the temperature guage on the cluster.
Clear the DTC codes with a ODB2 scanner or disconnect the battery. Expect the car to idle poorly until the idle trim values are re-learned.
Bank 1 is the right side. Bank 2 is the left side (Driver's).
The stock t-stat is 190-192.
Check for exhaust leaks. That will also cause a lean DTC. Esp around the EGR DPFE sensor.
I don't have wiring diagrams for the 97 MY. So I can't help you with the temperature guage on the cluster.
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