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Progress report on suspension build (pics)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cupid
  • Start date Start date Jun 20, 2006

Cupid

Member
Mar 30, 2006
162
0
16
Jun 20, 2006
#1
  • Jun 20, 2006
  • #1
Okay
Here are some pics of the rear leafs were added.

I have 14" wheels on 235/60/14(came with the car).

views:
1
2
3
4 Spring Difference

This is a "before" pic of the front:
1

Okay, i'm getting my butt kicked with the front spindles. I can't the get the upper control arm separated from the spindle. The darn thing is stuck. I have sprayed with penetration lube, beat on it for an hour with a tie rod remover and hammer. Any suggestions because this is really holding up progress on the front.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Jun 20, 2006
#2
  • Jun 20, 2006
  • #2
Break out the 5 lb sledge! Check out this article:

http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/shockandfall/shockfall1.htm
 
6

68restoman

New Member
Jun 5, 2003
69
0
0
Jun 21, 2006
#3
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #3
You might consider making a ball joint separator like this, it's just 2 bolts and a rod connector from the hardware store...

I made this back when I was removing alot of spindles at the junkyard and with this tool I got the process down to 20 minutes a side for complete removal...



68Restoman
 

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Cupid

Member
Mar 30, 2006
162
0
16
Jun 21, 2006
#4
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #4
68restoman said:
You might consider making a ball joint separator like this, it's just 2 bolts and a rod connector from the hardware store...

I made this back when I was removing alot of spindles at the junkyard and with this tool I got the process down to 20 minutes a side for complete removal...

68Restoman
Click to expand...


Saweeet! This is what i'm talkin' bout! I'll swing down to the hardware store and pick this up, in addition to a 5lb sledge!
 

Cupid

Member
Mar 30, 2006
162
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Jun 21, 2006
#5
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #5
I got screwed...

Check these out.


second one:


Immediately i'm thinkin' this can't be good.

The story goes as such. I bought the kit from a good supplier. The stated that I could have 620s with a 1 -1/2" drop. I replied, I didn't know 620s existed with a 1 1/2" drop. The guy stated he gives springs for a 65. They have thinner coils.(as in the circumference) of the metal is smaller, thus giving you an extra 1/2" drop. I thought cool! Now this might be the case, but they sent inner and outer tie rods for a 65 as well(I have a 70). I assume this LCA that is 3 inches shorter than mine is from a 65 as well. The UCA doesn't look too bad. There is barely any difference. Guess i'll be putting off the project until I can get the right parts. The bad part is I asked the question a while ago, and got a reply or two confirming that the stuff should fit. *sigh* back to the drawing boards...
 

Jester67

Member
Sep 21, 2004
908
1
18
TN
Jun 21, 2006
#6
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #6
Yah the LCA is for the 65/66 car and looks like the El cheap O' version because it looks to have pressin ball joints not rivited. as for the springs you do not need as much spring as the 65/66 so you might find the 620 a bit stiff. As for the UCA i cant tell much about them but if the quality is the same as the LCA i would send them back.
 
O

Opentracker

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 4, 2004
516
0
16
Jun 21, 2006
#7
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #7
Well, both upper and lower arms are for a '65. That lower arm is a good one in my opinion. The ball joint they used in that arm is a lot like the ones I use from my stock car supplyer, very strong. You will have to get a new set of arms. Check the bolt spread on the uppers, the old ones are 4 3/4" the new ones are 3 3/4".

John
 

Cupid

Member
Mar 30, 2006
162
0
16
Jun 27, 2006
#8
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #8
Front Springs are In!



I finally have the control arms tie rods and springs in. Shocks, brake bleeding, cotter pins, and an alignment is all I need. to get rollin!
sorry for the big pics...

Before


After


Before


After


Now i'm a little worried that the front is too low. 14" wheels and the front is almost tucked already!
 

NasaGT

Founding Member
Sep 19, 2002
1,993
2
49
Virginia
Jun 27, 2006
#9
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #9
Very nice!
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Jun 27, 2006
#10
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #10
Good job...got the stance just right
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
1
16
London (uk)
Jun 28, 2006
#11
  • Jun 28, 2006
  • #11
that's very nice, nice work.
i am thinking of lowering mine also
 
P

paintballtommy

Member
Jan 31, 2004
244
0
16
concord, ca
Jun 28, 2006
#12
  • Jun 28, 2006
  • #12
a tip for getting the spindles off. the ball joins have a tapered shaft that fits into the hole on the spindle. take 2 big hammers, hold one against one side as firmly as possible and whack as hard as you can with the other hammer directly on the other side. it causes the hole to somewhat oblong itself momentarily and it just so happens that it spits the shaft out. ive had luck with it.
 

Cupid

Member
Mar 30, 2006
162
0
16
Jun 28, 2006
#13
  • Jun 28, 2006
  • #13
gonzothegreat said:
that's very nice, nice work.
i am thinking of lowering mine also
Click to expand...

Before you start lowering, you might want to take a look at my other post about headers. My headers are giving me a "headache"... Get it? Headers--Headache...? I won't quit my day job, but definitely make sure your's aren't below your frame rails. I can't get out of my driveway because of it.

Good luck and thanks for the compliments.:SNSign:
 
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