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Progress Thread: 3G install / parts / pictures

  • Thread starter Thread starter srothfuss
  • Start date Start date Apr 4, 2006
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srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Oct 17, 2004
1,796
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0
Woodward Ave.
Apr 11, 2006
#21
  • Apr 11, 2006
  • #21
The stock 3G pulley was doing a fine job charging the car. In my case I wanted it becasuse of my Mark Viii fan and sitting it traffic (high loads @ idle)
 
B

biglg

New Member
Mar 13, 2006
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May 1, 2006
#22
  • May 1, 2006
  • #22
Pulley?

Thanks guys. I picked up a 3G alternator off a newer Mustang for $50. I have read contradicting information on this next topic. Do I use my stock 2g alternator pulley, or leave the pulley that is on the 3g alternator I just purchased used? I am sure i will have more questions, but that is it for now.

Oh no, not really. I am going to use 4gauge and rewire. Can anyone give me a part number for this fusable link that I need? Like from autozone, advance auto parts, radio shack, lowes? I would like to make sure I get the correct fuse for this. Or just tell me what sytle fuse and holder, and exactly where I want to put the fusable link. Thanks.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
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89
Dallas, TX
May 1, 2006
#23
  • May 1, 2006
  • #23
srothfuss said:
Also, to complete the swap I followed all of the information posted up by JRichker (Technical data) and 04sleeper (FFI overdriven pulley and harness)

JRichker's Post: Click me!

04sleeper's Post: Click this one!
Click to expand...
Nice writeup srothfuss!

Glad to see I could help.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
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89
Dallas, TX
May 1, 2006
#24
  • May 1, 2006
  • #24
biglg said:
Thanks guys. I picked up a 3G alternator off a newer Mustang for $50. I have read contradicting information on this next topic. Do I use my stock 2g alternator pulley, or leave the pulley that is on the 3g alternator I just purchased used? I am sure i will have more questions, but that is it for now.

Oh no, not really. I am going to use 4gauge and rewire. Can anyone give me a part number for this fusable link that I need? Like from autozone, advance auto parts, radio shack, lowes? I would like to make sure I get the correct fuse for this. Or just tell me what sytle fuse and holder, and exactly where I want to put the fusable link. Thanks.
Click to expand...
For your pulley it depends on what size your crank pulley is. If you have a stock crank pulley then use the stock 3G. If you have an underdrive crank pulley then go with an overdrive pulley like the one from FFI. The stock 2G will not fit properly without a spacer as stated.

As far as the 4 gauge goes, you can source the seperate parts from JRichker's link or just buy what you need all from one source like here.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=67

I like the FFI kit myself.
 
B

biglg

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Mar 13, 2006
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May 1, 2006
#25
  • May 1, 2006
  • #25
Thanks for the info.

I have a stock 89, so the pulleys would be stock.

Isnt the 3g stock pulley different from my 2g? Different diameter? I havent had them both next to each other to see the exact difference. I will look tonight after work. If they are a slightly different size in diameter, what effect will that have on the overall performance of the charging system? What if I go to the 2g size, so a smaller size on the 3g alt? Turns more, charges more?

i woudl like to keep my stock belt, as I just spent $30 on a gatorback. Thanks again.
 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Oct 17, 2004
1,796
3
0
Woodward Ave.
May 1, 2006
#26
  • May 1, 2006
  • #26
04sleeper said:
Glad to see I could help.
Click to expand...

I should be thanking you...

Big:
The 3G pulley is slightly larger in diameter than the 2G. I have a picture in this thread of the two side by side. So think of it this way:

Stock 2G alternator puts out - 65Amps when it's spun up. @ Idle it only puts out about 20Amps or about 1/3 of it's total output

Now lets think about the 3G. At full tilt it puts out 130Amps. @ Idle it puts out about 43Amps or about 1/3 of it's total output. With the stock Mystang pullies and a 3G pulley on the alternator you are still much better off than a 2G setup. It's worth the 2 hours of wrenching to do the swap....

If you bought that belt recently you can take it back to the parts store for a exchange on a different size.
 
B

biglg

New Member
Mar 13, 2006
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May 1, 2006
#27
  • May 1, 2006
  • #27
strothfuss,

I just put the 2g pulley on the 3g alt. I have a spacer i found that will work. I will know exactly if the spacing is correct once the belt is on. If it is sliding up one side or the other of the pulley it might need more or less of a spacer.

Is what I have done by putting the 2g pulley on the 3g alt, leaving all other pulleys stock ok?

THanks again guys.
 

timewarped1972

Member
Jun 17, 2004
642
0
16
mesa, az
May 1, 2006
#28
  • May 1, 2006
  • #28
i did the same thing, put the 2g pulley on and used a really thin spacer/washer and it works just fine.
 
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biglg

New Member
Mar 13, 2006
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May 1, 2006
#29
  • May 1, 2006
  • #29
timewarped,

I was thinking about using the stock alternator lock washer that is under the nut that holds the pulley on, referring to the stock 2g alt. IS that to thick of washer? Can you tell me how thick of a washer you used? I guess your belt doesnt ride up either side of the alt pulley? It stays on line? Thanks.
 
B

biglg

New Member
Mar 13, 2006
64
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0
May 2, 2006
#30
  • May 2, 2006
  • #30
I am going to work on my 3G alternator upgrade tonight. Or at least get some of the supplies. I am going to put in a wafer/ANL style fuse and holder on the 4 gauge power wire. Is a 150 Amp fuse enough? I noticed some say to use a 125; well no one has a 125 locally. So I can get a 150, or a 200. I see some say to use a 200. What does everyone recommend?

Also, if I already have 4 gauge ground from battery to frame, and 4 gauge ground to engine block I don’t need to change anything do I? I only need 4 gauge wires for the power, correct? I do nothing with a ground anywhere on the car or alt? Please let me know ASAP as I plan to get these parts in a few hours. Thanks, Landon.
 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Oct 17, 2004
1,796
3
0
Woodward Ave.
May 2, 2006
#31
  • May 2, 2006
  • #31
Big, I am using a 150Amp ANL fuse on my setup. 200 is probably too big, but that is just my opinion and not fact. 125 is too small though especially since the fuse would be under the rated capacity of the 130amp alt
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
14
89
Dallas, TX
May 2, 2006
#32
  • May 2, 2006
  • #32
srothfuss said:
Big, I am using a 150Amp ANL fuse on my setup. 200 is probably too big, but that is just my opinion and not fact. 125 is too small though especially since the fuse would be under the rated capacity of the 130amp alt
Click to expand...
150 Amp fuse would be the correct size for the 130 amp alt.

Also Big, the stock 3G pulley will work just fine as long as you have the stock crank pulley.
 
B

biglg

New Member
Mar 13, 2006
64
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May 2, 2006
#33
  • May 2, 2006
  • #33
Thanks for the reply. Need a little help for my 3G alt upgrade.

I guess to keep it simple for my rookie a**. If I use 4 gauge from the alternator stud, directly to the battery do I need to do anything to the factory ground wires in the car? Or just leave them?

Secondly, Can someone in simple terms tell me exactly what I need to do to wire this alt up? Here is what I think is correct.

Take 4 gauge directly from the battery to the stud on the alt, going to put in a 150A inline fuse.

The one factory alt plug, keep all wires intact and plug into the alternator.

Cut the connector off the other plug. Now, I believe the two black and orange need ring terminals, connect these two to the stud on the 3G alt as well. Correct? The remaining wire from this connector I connect to the little connector on the 3G alt? Stator?(SPELLING?)

Now I have read do not connect the black/white wires. I dont know where those are at or what they are talking about. I think I am on the right track.

So, do I do anything to the ground? What wires do I not use out of the factory alt connectors? Do I remove any wiring? Please a little more help on this. Thanks, Landon.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
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89
Dallas, TX
May 2, 2006
#34
  • May 2, 2006
  • #34
biglg said:
Thanks for the reply. Need a little help for my 3G alt upgrade.

I guess to keep it simple for my rookie a**. If I use 4 gauge from the alternator stud, directly to the battery do I need to do anything to the factory ground wires in the car? Or just leave them?
Click to expand...

You go from the alternator stud to the stud on the starter solenoid with the inline fuse in between them. It is a good idea to run a 4 gauge wire from your block to the eec ground on the inner fender.

biglg said:
Secondly, Can someone in simple terms tell me exactly what I need to do to wire this alt up? Here is what I think is correct.

Take 4 gauge directly from the battery to the stud on the alt, going to put in a 150A inline fuse.
Click to expand...
Not from the battery, from the starter solenoid.

biglg said:
The one factory alt plug, keep all wires intact and plug into the alternator.

Cut the connector off the other plug. Now, I believe the two black and orange need ring terminals, connect these two to the stud on the 3G alt as well. Correct? The remaining wire from this connector I connect to the little connector on the 3G alt? Stator?(SPELLING?)
Click to expand...
Maybe this picture will help.
View attachment 472514


biglg said:
Now I have read do not connect the black/white wires. I dont know where those are at or what they are talking about. I think I am on the right track.
Click to expand...
The 2 black/orange wires are in the second plug that is no longer needed because you are using the 4 gauge wire to replace them.

biglg said:
So, do I do anything to the ground? What wires do I not use out of the factory alt connectors? Do I remove any wiring? Please a little more help on this. Thanks, Landon.
Click to expand...
You DON'T use the 2 (10 gauge) black/orange wires from the second plug.

You can remove them from the harness if you would like. If not just leave them unhooked.
 
B

biglg

New Member
Mar 13, 2006
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May 3, 2006
#35
  • May 3, 2006
  • #35
Ok,

I think I have this almost done, just waiting on my ANL fuse holder to get here in the mail. One last thing I need to do is put the belt back on. THis is the first time I have taken it off my car. What is the easiest way to get it back on? I was trying to put it over the alt pulley last. I messed with it for a few minutes and damn, I couldnt get it. Then the wife was yelling telling me to hurry up to go out to eat. I honestly dont think I can get the dam belt back on the way I was trying to do it. Can somone tell me exactly how to do it, what pully to pull it on last? I had to be trying something wrong, because i was 1/2-1 inch off, at least. Thanks guys.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
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89
Dallas, TX
May 4, 2006
#36
  • May 4, 2006
  • #36
Pull up on the belt tensioner on the engine with the proper size wrench or socket.

Looks like this.


Route the belt around everything except the tensioner pulley.

And just slide the belt under the tensioner pulley when you pry it up with the wrench.

Thats all there is to it.
 

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biglg

New Member
Mar 13, 2006
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0
May 4, 2006
#37
  • May 4, 2006
  • #37
I purchased a pipe and used it as a breaker bar, it made it 100 times easier to get the belt on.

All i need to know now is where to put the inline fuse on the 4 gauge power wire. Should I put it closer to the alternator, or closer to the power wire where it connects to the power side of the solenoid? I have read to put it both places. Which one would be better? Closer to the solenoid, or the alternator? Thanks.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
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89
Dallas, TX
May 5, 2006
#38
  • May 5, 2006
  • #38
biglg said:
I purchased a pipe and used it as a breaker bar, it made it 100 times easier to get the belt on.

All i need to know now is where to put the inline fuse on the 4 gauge power wire. Should I put it closer to the alternator, or closer to the power wire where it connects to the power side of the solenoid? I have read to put it both places. Which one would be better? Closer to the solenoid, or the alternator? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Sounds good.

I would put the fuse aprox. 12 inches away from the solenoid.
 
8

8950HO

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
658
2
0
May 5, 2006
#39
  • May 5, 2006
  • #39
srothfuss said:
I should be thanking you...

Big:
The 3G pulley is slightly larger in diameter than the 2G. I have a picture in this thread of the two side by side. So think of it this way:

Stock 2G alternator puts out - 65Amps when it's spun up. @ Idle it only puts out about 20Amps or about 1/3 of it's total output

Now lets think about the 3G. At full tilt it puts out 130Amps. @ Idle it puts out about 43Amps or about 1/3 of it's total output. With the stock Mystang pullies and a 3G pulley on the alternator you are still much better off than a 2G setup. It's worth the 2 hours of wrenching to do the swap....

If you bought that belt recently you can take it back to the parts store for a exchange on a different size.
Click to expand...


The alternator rebuilder who reclocked my rebuilt 96`Taurus 130amp 3g alternator from the wreckers for free,also did a free computerized load test.

Results;70amps at idle and 139amps under full load.
 
D

dec322

Member
Feb 11, 2006
401
2
16
Bham AL
Jul 10, 2006
#40
  • Jul 10, 2006
  • #40
Thanks for this thread!! I've completed my 3g upgrade but have had problems with the 2g pulley fitting on the 3g alt (94 mustang). Finally I found a solution: FFI pulley. Thanks

Also, I still need to make the 4 gauge ground. Do you have any pics of the ground on the block. I know that one end attaches at the pigtail....but where do I need to attach on the block. Thanks again!
 
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