Progress Thread: 3G install / parts / pictures

dec322 · Jul 13, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
FFI = Ford Fuel injection.

www.fordfuelinjection.com

Then go to products (IIRC). You'll hit the pulley in the alt section (good prices too).

Good luck.

$16 shipped. I thought it was pretty good. My other choice was to get my 2g pulley machined and I'm sure it would have cost more than $16 plus the risk of it weakening the pulley.

Thank for the ground pic srothfuss. Can't get any easier than that! But one question just to clarify: Did you run it up to the pigtail ground next to the washer fluid resivoir?

srothfuss · Jul 13, 2006

Yeah, the oppisite end of my ground connects right to the EEC ground. It's the same ground that is pictured in JRickers post (from the front page.)

And just so you don't wonder, Aluminum conducts electricity just fine so the PS bracket works just fine as a ground location.

$uperstang · Jul 13, 2006

Is the 4 guage ground wire really necessary? I will be installing mine today and have everything except the 4g ground now?

dec322 · Jul 13, 2006

$uperstang said:
Is the 4 guage ground wire really necessary? I will be installing mine today and have everything except the 4g ground now?

I've been driving for a couple of days w/o the ground and everything has been fine. But I will be putting the ground on as soon as possible. I just got the pulley today and can't get the old one off again....now I have to wait until Monday (when I get back from out of town). Anyways, I'll have the ground just to be safe.

srothfuss · Jul 13, 2006

Not installing the ground won't make the car explode or anything. But having the extra ground (out of 4 gauge) allows any access electricity an escape route to the chasis. Sometimes, the extra ground helps with the alternator output because, the alternator is grounded to the engine block.

billison · Jul 13, 2006

ok, so let me get this right, to do the 130 amp, 3g install, i have to get the alternater, the harness for it, cut the white wires, run 4gage wire to what now and them i'm done?

srothfuss · Jul 14, 2006

Run the new 4 gauge over to the starter solenoid. That is pretty much it. The hardest part is cutting away at the bracket to get clearance for the 3G to fit properly.

I ran mine positive wire by following the factory harness under the air box (fused it there), then in front of the radiator, under the air box and up to the positive side of the solenoid.

$uperstang · Jul 14, 2006

Just installed mine last night, it is a 3g 170 amp alternator and I put my underdrive pulley on as well and reading 14.8 volts at idle! My lights inside and out have never been brighter. Battery gauge stays at the half mark on the stock gauge whether I at an idle or cruising. It NEVER moves! With the stock alternator it was all over the place. THIS THING IS AWESOME!

I simply wired mine using a 200amp in-line fuse with the 4g wire and I cut the big plug on the alternator and put 2 spade conectors on the 2 black and orange wires and placed those on the nut at the back of the alternator as wll as the 4g power wire in that same nut and then connected the white stator wire to the white wire from that same plug DONE!

HISSIN50 · Jul 14, 2006

$uperstang said:
I simply wired mine using a 200amp in-line fuse with the 4g wire and I cut the big plug on the alternator and put 2 spade conectors on the 2 black and orange wires and placed those on the nut at the back of the alternator as wll as the 4g power wire in that same nut and then connected the white stator wire to the white wire from that same plug DONE!

I'd want to keep an eye on the 4 AWG wiring - make sure the connectors are tight, etc because if that cable is compromised, your alt will try to dump all that current through the stock charge wires you left connected. In said case, you have to hope that the stock fusible links blow before the wiring catches on fire (and given that people did 3G upgrades without upgrading wiring and ended up having fires, it's a real possibility).

Good luck.

GreatWhite · Jul 30, 2006

did you connect the stator wire?

srothfuss · Jul 31, 2006

The factory stator wire gets clipped from the factory plug and then wired into the 3G terminal. But that is all you need to do with it.

8950HO · Jul 31, 2006

You can also use a quick splice connector for the stator wire if you don`t want to cut the wire on the factory spade connector.

I cut no wires when I installed mine.

postalbunny · Aug 14, 2006

What size ffi pulley is everyone ordering? I see 2 5/8 and 2 1/4 as well as a tiny 1 7/8; says max rpm on a 3g should be 15k.

dec322 · Aug 14, 2006

postalbunny said:
What size ffi pulley is everyone ordering? I see 2 5/8 and 2 1/4 as well as a tiny 1 7/8; says max rpm on a 3g should be 15k.

I used the 1 7/8 pulley. It works great.

8950HO · Aug 14, 2006

My 130amp 3g charges fine with a 2g size pulley,even with an underdrive crank pulley at idle.

I did have an ASP 1-7/8" OD pulley on my crappy 75amp 2g.

Jaswir · Aug 14, 2006

210* normal?

oops nm

dec322 · Aug 14, 2006

8950HO said:
My 130amp 3g charges fine with a 2g size pulley,even with an underdrive crank pulley at idle.

I did have an ASP 1-7/8" OD pulley on my crappy 75amp 2g.

I tried to use the stock 2g pulley but I needed to us a washer to push the pulley out enough. It was worth $16!

ieatls1 · Nov 11, 2006

sorry to bring this up from the dead but has anyone used the wire kit from PA-performance? Specifically this one?
http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=28&rP=searching,cat@Plugs+and+Wire+Kits,cR@categories

If your using this do u still have to run those two wires that run to the soilnoid? trying to figure out what wiring this eliminates. Thanks

GreatWhite · Nov 12, 2006

You no longer need to connect the black/orange wires to the back of the alternator. Just need to run a 4ga wire from the stud on the back to the solenoid with a fuse.

gruvee87vertgt · Nov 12, 2006

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