for @from6to8 this is the advice i'm going with on mine. I don't plan on running the 'low boost' kit forever. But i want to get it all up and running (it is - its down right now for other things) drive it for a while in this combo then proceed with going deeper down the path. I already have TFS heads sitting on my garage shelf waiting to go on, but i will probably wait longer and just do a complete engine rebuild and other mods all at once later on. CA SMOG really throws a wrench into what i can and cannot do though.
If you don't mind, take a look at all the things I put a ? by and let me know your thoughts. I think I'll be fine with the billet adj regulator though when Scott and I talked last week he mentioned he liked aeromotive because of something with boost and regular fb regulators that he likes the aero better. I think I have a handle on everything else and feel that the modded list I have vs what Scott wanted to use if I let him put together, I feel I'll be fine with that....
yeah that's what I'll do. ONly really one other question from my list about the fpr and if my billet adj will be fine I'll just run it and not worry about the aeromotive. Other than that I'll finalize the list and start getting best pricing and start ordering...
Meh... I don't like these things so, I'll leave recommendations to others.
This does [not] need to be calibrated for any injectors. You are getting a tune so this is not requred. Furthermore, a "calibrated" meter (this is a misnomer BTW) would never allow you to run 60s with an A9X. The size you have selected is fine. It should come with a transfer function printed on a sheet. Give that sheet to the tuner.
Cool
We covered this.
We covered this.
I run an OEM style FPR. Under what conditions would you need to adjust fuel pressure? Anyone?
I have a regulator that keeps my coil saturated. I can adjust voltage directly to the coil. The ignition systems on these cars is pretty stout. More stout than aftermarket systems IMO. We got a very hot/fat spark out of our ignition systems and relatively cheap spark plugs. I don't see the point in aftermarket ignition systems in our cars if you're not using a boost-retard.
I think that is a [very] optimistic but there will be an improvement. Centri blowers are not as 'inlet restriction free' sensitive as positive displacement blowers are.
Post an image of what you have.
so at less than 6 psi will I be ok running a setup like gkomo with the check valves in 2 locations and not worry about using a breather at all or even catch can?Correct. Boost pressure is a side effect. The better your engine processes air, the less boost you get.
Even so, the HP on the better breathing engine will be higher than the lower breathing engine even though the P,S, and I's read higher.
It's that pesky pressure vs. volume thing that I refer to all the time. We had a similar conversation about fuel pumps.
I will get an image later when I get home and upload.Meh... I don't like these things so, I'll leave recommendations to others.
This does [not] need to be calibrated for any injectors. You are getting a tune so this is not requred. Furthermore, a "calibrated" meter (this is a misnomer BTW) would never allow you to run 60s with an A9X. The size you have selected is fine. It should come with a transfer function printed on a sheet. Give that sheet to the tuner.
Cool
We covered this.
We covered this.
I run an OEM style FPR. Under what conditions would you need to adjust fuel pressure? Anyone?
I have a regulator that keeps my coil saturated. I can adjust voltage directly to the coil. The ignition systems on these cars is pretty stout. More stout than aftermarket systems IMO. We got a very hot/fat spark out of our ignition systems and relatively cheap spark plugs. I don't see the point in aftermarket ignition systems in our cars if you're not using a boost-retard.
I think that is a [very] optimistic but there will be an improvement. Centri blowers are not as 'inlet restriction free' sensitive as positive displacement blowers are.
Post an image of what you have.
Just picture in your mind, the flow of air at idle and cruise. Crank case air is already metered so, it [should] return to vacuum to the inlet [after] the mass air meter.
However... venting crank case air to atmosphere is not the end of the world and works just fine. We already discussed using one that has a check-valve.
I'm no guru so hopefully i'm explaining this correctly, but the way my valve cover part of the PCV system is almost 'like' a breather with a check valve. Instead of running the hose from the VC to TB (after MAF), it runs from VC to 'before' the MAF, into the airbox, but with a check valve. So its basically venting to atmosphere but just right into the air filter and the check valve makes sure no unmetered air gets into the crankcase.
yeah it was you who I mentioned and said he'd need to go look at what you said to maybe understand. Btw mine right now is like that with the nipple of the VC going to the nipple of the CAI which is before the meter I'm sure but I'll double check. So bascially if I can do that same thing I might be fine but if I need to run check valves and that'll make things better I'll run 1 or 2 as well......
I guess you made that comment for him?
