Project 81 Hack Job!!!!!

1990 Coupe----I know you have been there for me!! Thank you. My advice if you start this swap...start with a car that was originally fuel injected...86-93. Lots less crap to modify under the hood. AND much easier to mount the gas tank!!! Man did that suck for me!! I can give you all my info along the way.

25th---It might have more mechanically as far as ABS, T/C, etc....I'll be looking at your tail lights in the quarter mile! I wonder what this thing will run...not that that is what I built it for, but just curious. I hope all is well when it hits the road...especially because of what you said...grafting in new parts.

When the car is done, I will make one thread. I will put many pics of before during and afters. It has just taken too long to have made one thread. I would have had to keep bringing them back.

Really?

That is interesting. I have no idea what to ask for it. I do know one thing though...I have way more in it than planned!!!! I still know I will be buying 300-400 on paint supplies this weekend. Maybe not that much.

If anybody wonders, I am using a single stage paint by Nason. 1 Gallon of paint, 1 quart of Reducer and 2 pints of Activator. (Might be 1 pint I forget) Anyways, it's great because you spray once, and clean the gun onces. Base/clear you have to clean in between paint/clear I hate that. Besides the single stage shines more, shrinks less, it's 40% harder than base/clear, and it is a touch cheaper.

Punisher---I was waiting for someone to notice that!! I found that in the trunk of the 2001 GT I took apart. It was brand new, and I figured....YES...nice drop cloth!!

Crap....I should have sold it on EBAY!!!!

Demented----Thanks....it stands out like no other...nice bike BTW!

Yeah thanks, I can't wait to drive the damn thing. I have been noticing every yellow car on the road lately wheather it's a Dodge Ram, A Chevy Cobalt, V6 Mustang's, Neon's Monte Carlos....etc. They all make me itch to get it done.

96stangRC said:

not to hijack your thread but since yellow foxes are not that common here's a picture of my dad's 91 LX hatch painted Chrysler Prowler Yellow. BTW, your car's gonna look great man. Glad to see another nice yellow fox

Picture was taken before lowering springs were installed.......

Click to expand...

That is nice, I was contemplating black wheels, but they aren't me. You are killing me by posting those pics....I need to spray my car!!!!

You didn't hi-jack anything. Now, if you were the 1st post after me, that would be a different story....but no harm done! Thanks man!

Successful reconditioning of 87-93 door moldings

I got these rust free doors from another junkyard...(Couldn't believe I didn't have any) They were dented from end to end, the moldings were curled up at each end, and I was torn between taking the chance of fixing them and spending 650 dollars for new ones People mentioned heating the up metal and peeling it off. I tried that, and the two sided tape does not stick to rubber AT ALL. Maybe they used 3M Plastice and Emblem Adhesive, but that stuff eats paint so no way am I using that. Of all the methods mentioned to fix them. This is the method I used to fix them. Remember I am doing an entire paint job, so using a razor knife on a car that doesn't need paint might not be the best idea, but I have used fishing line, and windshield wire before and they curl and bend the metal up beyond use. THIS METHOD DOES NOT BEND IT AT ALL!!

1. Heat up molding with heat gun.

2. Take a long razor knife, and gently stick the razor in between the door and the molding being careful not to cut the molding. Drag it along slowly from end to end. You will have to repeat this step many times until the razor can reach the bottom of the twosided tape. Then move to the bottom area of the molding and repeat. DO NOT BEND/PULL/YANK on the molding. Take your time, keep the knife flat and the molding flat. Heat in between if possible.

3. Flip the moldings over. I tried using a wire wheel and a drill to get the old tape off. Yeah right! IT gummed the wheel up in two seconds. I then took my grinder with a new 36 grit grinding disc and took it to the tape. This worked great, but don't dig into the metal band with it!!! You just want to shave it down.

4. Now, move to 80 grit sandpaper on a D/A sander or Palm sander. Use this until you can see all the clean metal banding.

5. Hit the bandings with 150/320 grit. Either one, doesn't matter.

6. Buy 3M two sided tape. I bought the smallest roll (60ft) and have half left over. I did all 6 two sided tape style moldings on the body. Now....this will not stick well to the metal as it is.

7. I scratched my head and then took a can of clear coat. I made two passes on each strip, let it dry, and made two more. Let it dry. The tape STICKS LIKE NO TOMORROW, and you cannot get it back off!!! PERFECTO!!

8. This tape will NOT stick to primer, so you must have paint and clear behind the moldings....you will see in my pics that I painted behind the moldings.

9. After you lay the tape on the moldings, heat up the molding itself. Do NOT get real close to the tape as it wrinkle!! Just keep the heat gun moving. Heat the other side as well.

10. If the body is cold, heat the body in that area too.

11. Get a friend to help you hold it steady. Run masking tape to keep a straight line when sticking them on. Start at one end and steadily work your way toward the other. Keep pressing it on it steps, and keep it as straight as possible.

I know you have all stopped ready by now. But this has been covered 100 times on here, and this is the way that I did it and it work. They have been on for about 15 hours now and have not lifted. The temp has changed from 75* in the building to about 40* this morning when I came in, and now back to 70*. I am painting them on the car tomorrow, I will add more pics tomorrow.

AND FINALLY.........















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