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Project "true Blues"

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1lugloose
  • Start date Start date Jun 22, 2012
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1lugloose

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Apr 28, 2012
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Jul 20, 2012
#21
  • Jul 20, 2012
  • #21
Picked up a pair of used Hankook Ventus V12 Evo tires in 275/40/18 today. Bye bye, my precious Michelins. Those were some fantastic tires. Literally have just driven home on them (still managed a little slideways time) and I gotta say, its nice to know I have some tread back under me. The old tires were so worn they were beginning to sound like an old basketball when you tapped the tread. Now, I've never handbraked other than to park the car, but upon removal and finally getting to see all of both tires at once, it sure as hell is weird that with the stock diff, the left tire had a big ol' patch of threads exposed, while whatever was on the right that was exposed, pretty much ran the circumference due to the right tire fire syndrome of an open diff.

I don't think the car has ever had it's speedo recalc'd for the tire size changes. What kind of scan tools/programmers might allow me to do this?

BTW, $120 for two used tires with >60% life remaining, installed. Good deal?
 
0

007

Founding Member
Jan 29, 2002
3,287
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69
Broke
Jul 21, 2012
#22
  • Jul 21, 2012
  • #22
1lugloose said:
BTW, $120 for two used tires with >60% life remaining, installed. Good deal?
Click to expand...

Depends how old they are.
 

1lugloose

Member
Apr 28, 2012
53
0
6
Los Angeles
Jul 21, 2012
#23
  • Jul 21, 2012
  • #23
007 said:
Depends how old they are.
Click to expand...

Are there manufacturing date codes on all tires?
 

1lugloose

Member
Apr 28, 2012
53
0
6
Los Angeles
Jul 21, 2012
#24
  • Jul 21, 2012
  • #24
Blew a hose to the heater core yesterday. Can't remember if it was inlet or outlet, but either way it couldn't have happened at a worse time, as I was on my way to LAX to pick up my lady after month long trip to Japan. Cabbed her to me and then took another cab to Autozone to get parts and coolant. Damn plastic elbow on the hose that connects to the firewall let go. It was the hose that runs behind the engine from the drivers side, if you're curious. New straight fitting for a Ford F-150, new hose, some hose clamps, more coolant, and I'm back on the road.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
95
134
Jul 22, 2012
#25
  • Jul 22, 2012
  • #25
Always awesome to fix it where it sits and continue on, nice job!
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jul 22, 2012
#26
  • Jul 22, 2012
  • #26
Good thing you have a cool girlfriend. My current one would be ok with that but some of my previous ones would have lost it on me if that happened (which is why they ain't around anymore).
 

1lugloose

Member
Apr 28, 2012
53
0
6
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Aug 14, 2012
#27
  • Aug 14, 2012
  • #27
so the front brake pads have begun to make their final deathly sounds. Looking at new rotors too. Will be doing the wheel stud at the same time. Definitely doing the EBC red stuff pads, but not yet sure on what I'm gonna do for rotors. I really would like to try the EBC slotted and dimpled rotors as well, but that is a little more than I think I can spend right now. Is there that significant of a performance/quality difference from these to the Motorcraft or Duralast (autozone) or ProStop (pepboys)?

I'm not trying to do an upgrade right now, but just to maintain OEM quality at least do I have to pay for the Genuine Ford Parts or has anyone found the Duralast/ProStop brands sufficient? The budget is tight and the pads are definitely completely gone, so it has to happen before I can really afford to keep with my belief in upgrading in times of repairs.

So when $350 is kind of a stretch, and you need pads and rotors, what would you do? I think if I have to get the ford parts to not screw myself, then I might as well make the extra stretch to get the EBC rotors.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
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134
Aug 14, 2012
#28
  • Aug 14, 2012
  • #28
Forget the studs, turn the rotors you have, get basic pads, change the brake fluid, and paint your rotor hats. This will save lots of money and it will look much better when you are done.
 

joshjwc9

Active Member
Jun 12, 2006
1,095
17
39
Palm Harbor, FL
Aug 14, 2012
#29
  • Aug 14, 2012
  • #29
1lugloose said:
so the front brake pads have begun to make their final deathly sounds. Looking at new rotors too. Will be doing the wheel stud at the same time. Definitely doing the EBC red stuff pads, but not yet sure on what I'm gonna do for rotors. I really would like to try the EBC slotted and dimpled rotors as well, but that is a little more than I think I can spend right now. Is there that significant of a performance/quality difference from these to the Motorcraft or Duralast (autozone) or ProStop (pepboys)?

I'm not trying to do an upgrade right now, but just to maintain OEM quality at least do I have to pay for the Genuine Ford Parts or has anyone found the Duralast/ProStop brands sufficient? The budget is tight and the pads are definitely completely gone, so it has to happen before I can really afford to keep with my belief in upgrading in times of repairs.

So when $350 is kind of a stretch, and you need pads and rotors, what would you do? I think if I have to get the ford parts to not screw myself, then I might as well make the extra stretch to get the EBC rotors.
Click to expand...

Depends on your long term goals. If you could save some money here and there, skip a night out per week, bring coffee from home instead of Dunkin' or Starbucks and that could be $20 to $50 a week.

I really love slotted rotors. I have been using BrakeMotive products off of eBay for my last two brake jobs. But, they seem to be getting rid of just slotted rotors (I don't trust drilled rotors) so I have looked at R1 Concepts and they seem to be slightly more expensive but still offer the just slotted rotors. They have good reviews and their rotors have a coating that slows surface rust on the non contact areas, which are pleasing on the eyes.

I would recommend a R1 Concepts kit Roughly $175 for 4 rotors, then I'd recommend a premium Ceramic pads for another $90 for both front and rear. Then purchase some quality SS Brake Lines from guys like MM or StopTech. Stay away from Goodridge Lines. They had an awful fit for me first they sent the wrong banjo bolts then they fit awful on the stock banjo bolts.. You should be out an ready to go after buying some more brake fluid, some pizza for yourself and a buddy and the beer...
 

1lugloose

Member
Apr 28, 2012
53
0
6
Los Angeles
Aug 15, 2012
#30
  • Aug 15, 2012
  • #30
Kilgore Trout said:
Forget the studs, turn the rotors you have, get basic pads, change the brake fluid, and paint your rotor hats. This will save lots of money and it will look much better when you are done.
Click to expand...


Its only one wheel stud that has snapped so I'll be just replacing that one. Rotors have been turned too many times and have to be replaced. I'm only planning on doing the front at the immediate moment.

Thanks for the tips, though.

What's your opinion of the EBC stuff? I've definitely got to spend some money, and certainly can't afford a bigger brake upgrade like I'd prefer, but what rotor/pad would you go with if you could maybe max out at $350 in parts for the brake job? For a pair of the Autozone/Pepboys premium label rotors, it's about 80-90 bucks where EBC rotors are $190, EBC pads are $100 vs $60 for the Azone/PB.

joshjwc9 said:
Depends on your long term goals. If you could save some money here and there, skip a night out per week, bring coffee from home instead of Dunkin' or Starbucks and that could be $20 to $50 a week.

I really love slotted rotors. I have been using BrakeMotive products off of eBay for my last two brake jobs. But, they seem to be getting rid of just slotted rotors (I don't trust drilled rotors) so I have looked at R1 Concepts and they seem to be slightly more expensive but still offer the just slotted rotors. They have good reviews and their rotors have a coating that slows surface rust on the non contact areas, which are pleasing on the eyes.

I would recommend a R1 Concepts kit Roughly $175 for 4 rotors, then I'd recommend a premium Ceramic pads for another $90 for both front and rear. Then purchase some quality SS Brake Lines from guys like MM or StopTech. Stay away from Goodridge Lines. They had an awful fit for me first they sent the wrong banjo bolts then they fit awful on the stock banjo bolts.. You should be out an ready to go after buying some more brake fluid, some pizza for yourself and a buddy and the beer...
Click to expand...

I wish I wasn't already doing all the penny pinching! Fingers crossed that the interview I was just flown to Arizona for turns into a nice salary job, though I'm not pumped on living with that heat.

Ebay rotors, huh? I've always heard thats the best way to get screwed with low quality parts. How long did you go between those last two brake jobs and what was your driving style throughout that period?

The problem for me is this is my sole vehicle, my DD. It needs it yesterday, as the sounds the brakes are making are causing my skin to crawl. I'm parking it today at the place I work on it, and will be probably hitting up the bicycle or bus til Friday (payday). I don't have time to wait for shipping so ordering is out of the question.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Aug 15, 2012
#31
  • Aug 15, 2012
  • #31
fiveohwblow
1lugloose said:
I don't like bimmer-files: the're too jerseyboy-club-prickish to be of any assistance relative to what we have for our cars. I blame the mind-control hair gel and techno that is mandatory in the sale or resale of any and every BMW M produced since 1996.
Click to expand...

 

joshjwc9

Active Member
Jun 12, 2006
1,095
17
39
Palm Harbor, FL
Aug 15, 2012
#32
  • Aug 15, 2012
  • #32
1lugloose said:
I wish I wasn't already doing all the penny pinching! Fingers crossed that the interview I was just flown to Arizona for turns into a nice salary job, though I'm not pumped on living with that heat.

Ebay rotors, huh? I've always heard thats the best way to get screwed with low quality parts. How long did you go between those last two brake jobs and what was your driving style throughout that period?

The problem for me is this is my sole vehicle, my DD. It needs it yesterday, as the sounds the brakes are making are causing my skin to crawl. I'm parking it today at the place I work on it, and will be probably hitting up the bicycle or bus til Friday (payday). I don't have time to wait for shipping so ordering is out of the question.
Click to expand...

I have gotten just as many miles out of these last two brake jobs than I have on stock brakes since I got the car @ 66k miles. Actually a little less because I run harder Auto X pads that are louder and harsher to rotors and drive the car at events as well as on the street (and my car is driven this way every day as my DD). With a Ceramic pad you should easily see more mileage, less dust and the rotors would look much better.

It was a suggestion as I believe would have been much better for any stock vehicle looking for a good looking and performance minded improvement on a budget. I could easily recommend a Cobra front caliper conversion which would be in the $600+ range.

If I were you I'd just get what works best for you now, although even all the guys locally get my recommendation if they are looking to just get new parts without going into the next dollar bracket for their upgrade...

~~Good Luck to ya!
 

fiveohwblow

Official Member
15 Year Member
Jul 21, 2005
2,169
145
155
Aug 15, 2012
#33
  • Aug 15, 2012
  • #33
N8Dogg98 said:
fiveohwblow

Click to expand...
Seriously. Anyone who likes BMW, techno or dance music and has a penchant for doing their hair instead of wearing a mustang hat should not even consider owning a mustang. Bimmer guys suck. Period.

They also don't know .
 

nine2oneGT

Member
Apr 13, 2008
94
2
9
Austin, TX
Aug 15, 2012
#34
  • Aug 15, 2012
  • #34
You are very detailed but
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Aug 15, 2012
#35
  • Aug 15, 2012
  • #35
1lugloose said:
so the front brake pads have begun to make their final deathly sounds. Looking at new rotors too. Will be doing the wheel stud at the same time. Definitely doing the EBC red stuff pads, but not yet sure on what I'm gonna do for rotors. I really would like to try the EBC slotted and dimpled rotors as well, but that is a little more than I think I can spend right now. Is there that significant of a performance/quality difference from these to the Motorcraft or Duralast (autozone) or ProStop (pepboys)?

I'm not trying to do an upgrade right now, but just to maintain OEM quality at least do I have to pay for the Genuine Ford Parts or has anyone found the Duralast/ProStop brands sufficient? The budget is tight and the pads are definitely completely gone, so it has to happen before I can really afford to keep with my belief in upgrading in times of repairs.

So when $350 is kind of a stretch, and you need pads and rotors, what would you do? I think if I have to get the ford parts to not screw myself, then I might as well make the extra stretch to get the EBC rotors.
Click to expand...
autozone or advance auto parts mid grade pads or even the cheap ones. get the best rotors you can and some softer pads. i would rather change brake pads all day long then have to shell out the bucks for new rotors cause' the ceramic steel blah blah blah top of the line pads have not worn at all but have destroyed the rotors.
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Aug 16, 2012
#36
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #36
I've had one experience with Advance Auto rotors and pads. Never again. Don't remember the grade of either, but the pads dusted like crazy, and the rotors were completely rusted in a month.

The rotors josh are talking about are from 'brakemotive' on Ebay, and they aren't bad. I've been running them for a couple of years now with no problems. They were rust free for nearly a year, and now 2 years in, the don't look terrible at all. I can't speak about racing with them. IIRC, I got rotors and pads (which are fairly nice ceramic pads) for around $150 shipped. (Yup, here they are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-...its=Model:Mustang&hash=item43afefd2ca&vxp=mtr)

Also, if you are looking for really nice rotors, there's a seller on Ebay called drt-sport that has VERY nice stuff at reasonable prices. Their rotors are made by Centric, and are of very good quality (nearly as good as you can get short of all-out race stuff). Also, they powder coat their rotors, which is supposed to hold up very well (better than zinc coating).

Here's a set of their "lower" end rotors AND pads for $170: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4834a1e679

Set of lower end rotors and ceramic pads for $195: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-00-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255bae2268

Premium rotors for $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4837715614

They also have slotted only rotors. I don't entirely trust drilled rotors for racing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483788d406



IMHO, the next set of brakes I buy for a Mustang will be these DRT Sport premium slotted rotors, and some sort of aftermarket ceramic pads (haven't researched them as much).
 
0

007

Founding Member
Jan 29, 2002
3,287
24
69
Broke
Aug 16, 2012
#37
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #37
My front Cobra/Bullitt rotors are from Rotor Pros. Slotted and drilled. I've had them for several years. The zinc plating still looks perfect. The only bit that will rust is the contact area with the pad, and that cleans as soon as you use them.

I have zero complaints. Bought them on ebay I think. A bunch of stangnet guys tried them a long time ago... I think I was considering a group purchase deal at one point.

http://www.rotorpros.net/
 

1lugloose

Member
Apr 28, 2012
53
0
6
Los Angeles
Aug 16, 2012
#38
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #38
joshjwc9 said:
I have gotten just as many miles out of these last two brake jobs than I have on stock brakes since I got the car @ 66k miles. Actually a little less because I run harder Auto X pads that are louder and harsher to rotors and drive the car at events as well as on the street (and my car is driven this way every day as my DD). With a Ceramic pad you should easily see more mileage, less dust and the rotors would look much better.

It was a suggestion as I believe would have been much better for any stock vehicle looking for a good looking and performance minded improvement on a budget. I could easily recommend a Cobra front caliper conversion which would be in the $600+ range.

If I were you I'd just get what works best for you now, although even all the guys locally get my recommendation if they are looking to just get new parts without going into the next dollar bracket for their upgrade...

~~Good Luck to ya!
Click to expand...
Wow, that sounds like quite the deal. Next time that I need brakes I'll be sure to check those out! If it wasn't for the shipping time of ordering, that sounds like the ticket!

fiveohwblow said:
Seriously. Anyone who likes BMW, techno or dance music and has a penchant for doing their hair instead of wearing a mustang hat should not even consider owning a mustang. Bimmer guys suck. Period.

They also don't know ****.
Click to expand...



nine2oneGT said:
You are very detailed but
Click to expand...
LOL, working on it...

jcgafford said:
autozone or advance auto parts mid grade pads or even the cheap ones. get the best rotors you can and some softer pads. i would rather change brake pads all day long then have to shell out the bucks for new rotors cause' the ceramic steel blah blah blah top of the line pads have not worn at all but have destroyed the rotors.
Click to expand...
I think I'm the opposite, I'd rather burn though cheap rotors than have to deal with the smell and performance of cheap pads. Now you got me thinking though, will those EBC reds eat through the premium label AZ/PB branded rotors significantly faster than a power slot or EBC rotor?

sneaky98gt said:
I've had one experience with Advance Auto rotors and pads. Never again. Don't remember the grade of either, but the pads dusted like crazy, and the rotors were completely rusted in a month.

The rotors josh are talking about are from 'brakemotive' on Ebay, and they aren't bad. I've been running them for a couple of years now with no problems. They were rust free for nearly a year, and now 2 years in, the don't look terrible at all. I can't speak about racing with them. IIRC, I got rotors and pads (which are fairly nice ceramic pads) for around $150 shipped. (Yup, here they are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-KIT-4-PERFORMANCE-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-AND-8-CERAMIC-PADS-/290714538698?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model:Mustang&hash=item43afefd2ca&vxp=mtr)

Also, if you are looking for really nice rotors, there's a seller on Ebay called drt-sport that has VERY nice stuff at reasonable prices. Their rotors are made by Centric, and are of very good quality (nearly as good as you can get short of all-out race stuff). Also, they powder coat their rotors, which is supposed to hold up very well (better than zinc coating).

Here's a set of their "lower" end rotors AND pads for $170: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4834a1e679

Set of lower end rotors and ceramic pads for $195: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-00-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255bae2268

Premium rotors for $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4837715614

They also have slotted only rotors. I don't entirely trust drilled rotors for racing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483788d406



IMHO, the next set of brakes I buy for a Mustang will be these DRT Sport premium slotted rotors, and some sort of aftermarket ceramic pads (haven't researched them as much).
Click to expand...

My car isn't much of a beauty queen, she looks more like a battle proven brawler than a show quality street beast. In all honesty, my last considertation is looks when it comes to anything that has a mechanical functionality to it.

Both you and Josh have some strong advice that I'll have to explore further the next time I need brakes and have the time to order something. For right now, it's get the car to back-on-the-road mode.

007 said:
My front Cobra/Bullitt rotors are from Rotor Pros. Slotted and drilled. I've had them for several years. The zinc plating still looks perfect. The only bit that will rust is the contact area with the pad, and that cleans as soon as you use them.

I have zero complaints. Bought them on ebay I think. A bunch of stangnet guys tried them a long time ago... I think I was considering a group purchase deal at one point.

http://www.rotorpros.net/
Click to expand...
I'm beginning to sound like a broken record, but given more time to order something, I would have to look into these as well. Did you have to do a caliper conversion with the Cobra/Bullitt rotors or are you already driving a Cobra/Bullitt?
 
0

007

Founding Member
Jan 29, 2002
3,287
24
69
Broke
Aug 16, 2012
#39
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #39
Bullitt calipers (same as Cobras but they have a pony on them instead of saying COBRA on my GT), stainless lines and the slotted drilled zinc'd rotors. The difference is shocking compared to stock.

Looks like theyve been on my car for 5 years. Heres a pic from when they went on in 2007.
 

1lugloose

Member
Apr 28, 2012
53
0
6
Los Angeles
Aug 16, 2012
#40
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #40
007 said:
Bullitt calipers (same as Cobras but they have a pony on them instead of saying COBRA on my GT), stainless lines and the slotted drilled zinc'd rotors. The difference is shocking compared to stock.

Looks like theyve been on my car for 5 years. Heres a pic from when they went on in 2007.
Click to expand...
Them some mighty purty lookin wheel wells, sir. Real Saleen too?
Thanks for the tip. This looks like an excellent stepping stone to the big brake kit. Unfortunately, I can't afford to pull this off right now.

And thanks to everyone else for the advice.

For right now, I'm forced to buy what I can get in stock because I need the car to get to work, 10 miles from home. That means EBC pads, PepBoys Platinum rotors, wheel stud and nuts. I kinda feel dirty. The thought of the pepboys parts being on my car does make me cringe.... more than a little. Before I get to the next needed brake job and once I can afford it again, I'll probably come back to these posts to check up on the brands you all have worked with to get some basic better rotors if I can't afford the Cobra/Bullitt or Big Brake Upgrade.

Obviously with only doing the fronts, I'll eventually need to do the rears, and once i do those, I'll try and save up to do everything in a proper round-about and all at once upgrade to the whole brake system.

Will take pics/video tomorrow of the job.

On another note, I did make contact with the guys at GTR Motorsports in Rancho Cucamonga, CA and they were nice enough to talk me through my options and even offered to try and track down some good used rotors that they get when they do the big brake upgrades. If they weren't over 50 miles from where I live, I'd be willing to purchase some parts from them, but thats further than I want to push my brakes right now. And I don't think I really want to pay for labor for a job I've done on all my other cars just fine though this will be my first one with my stang. If I'm over my head though, I think they'd get my pick to handle the job.
 
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