Proportioning valve ideas for Granada swap

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The front drums are finally toast so if figure it's time to throw on the discs. The reason I have held off so long is I do nothing but drag race as it may have come across previously . With the turbo project coming to a finish I thought it may be better to keep the drums up front for one reason. I was always able to foot brake harder with drums than I ever was able to do with my old car/disc setup. I could get the car to stall to 3400 on the brake.
Now I am thinking since I need these brakes I can slap them on and throw on an adjustable proportioning valve. Idea is to have a setting for the street and normal driving. Come track time, back down the grab on the fronts for equal braking all around for higher foot braking.
Anybody done this, or am I on my own here ?

 

65ShelbyClone

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You're probably on your own. I imagine most serious drag racers just install a line lock.

 

12sec67

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#3

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he's not on his own...

why didn't you ask me you knucklehead!

they have different styles of proportioning valves the wilwood style with the turn knob that you could put a guage on. or they have the other stlye that uses a hand 3" lever to adjust the pressure

 

HistoricMustang

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My turn knob valve is plumbed just inside the drivers door so it can be adjusted with left hand while car is in motion.

HistoricMustang
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65ShelbyClone said:

You're probably on your own. I imagine most serious drag racers just install a line lock.

Click to expand...

I've got a line lock. That holds just the front. What I want is to be able to turn the grab down on the front brakes so front and back grab equally. Like a poor man's transbrake. Anyone get it now, or am I still confusing everyone ?
Sounds pretty good Historic. Although I don't know if I need to go quite that far. That would come in handy as hell for auto crossing though.

 

12sec67

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i like your avatar HISTORIC!

 

65ShelbyClone

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10secgoal said:

I've got a line lock. That holds just the front. What I want is to be able to turn the grab down on the front brakes so front and back grab equally. Like a poor man's transbrake. Anyone get it now, or am I still confusing everyone ?

Click to expand...

No, it look like I'm the only one in retardville. I missed that fact that you want to hold the rear wheels to flash the converter. It totally went over my head since I drive a stick. I think the lever prop valve would probably be easier since it's so fast to return to normal braking. Stomp on the brakes after tightening the rears and hello snap oversteer.

 

pabear89

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#8

• Dec 10, 2005

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Well I don't think You lost me.

What you need to do is install a valve from the master to the valve to a Tee block to the front brakes.
This will give you control of the front pressure.

Four wheel trans brake. You can lock in the stall and preload the springs.


PB

 

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65ShelbyClone said:

I think the lever prop valve would probably be easier since it's so fast to return to normal braking.

Click to expand...

I think this will be the easiest way. That way I don't have to count the turns, to return to normal.

pabear89 said:

Four wheel trans brake. You can lock in the stall and preload the springs.

Click to expand...

Egggxactly

pabear89 said:

What you need to do is install a valve from the master to the valve to a Tee block to the front brakes.
This will give you control of the front pressure.

Click to expand...

A valve to a valve ? Typo ? Or you mean from the valve to the porportioning valve ? I was thinking a valve between the master and a tee to the fronts. And maybe just blocking off the porportioning valve ports, if they will leak with no plugs.

 

HistoricMustang

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12sec67 said:

i like your avatar HISTORIC!

Click to expand...

Yea, someone asked my if is was the Misses...................told them no way I would put up her pic on the internet. However, did decide to use a pic of her twin sister. Enjoy, and she is single!

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HistoricMustang

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HistoricMustang said:

My turn knob valve is plumbed just inside the drivers door so it can be adjusted with left hand while car is in motion.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

Click to expand...

For those interested.

HistoricMustang
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I found out today with no proportioning valve the back brakes would lock up first. So I guess I'll have to up the psi to the backs to make this work.

 

Edbert

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My prop valve is plumbed inline with the rears only, the fronts go to a T-block and straight out to the wheels. The rear needs to be turned down only to prevent premature lockup...I don't see how you'd be able to turn it UP to the rears. You could decrease the fronts with a prop-valve but that will not give more holding power to the rears either.

...am I missing something basic here?

 

HistoricMustang

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#14

• Dec 12, 2005

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Edbert said:

My prop valve is plumbed inline with the rears only, the fronts go to a T-block and straight out to the wheels. The rear needs to be turned down only to prevent premature lockup...I don't see how you'd be able to turn it UP to the rears. You could decrease the fronts with a prop-valve but that will not give more holding power to the rears either.

...am I missing something basic here?

Click to expand...

Ed, you are correct. The rears need to be decreased.

HistoricMustang
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chepsk8

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#15

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I did the conversion a ways back, just the discs first, not pedal changes, and the brakes were horrible. I found a Granada / Maverick / Mustang II prop valve used, cleaned it & put it in, and the brakes were almost perfectly balanced. Ultimately, when I added the power booster to make the pedal pressure easier, I added the MASTERPOWER dist block/Prop valve and never had to adjust anything. Straight stops, cheap, and easy.



and...

My dream avatar...

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(but I like my vintage Ford one!)

 

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#16

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Edbert said:

The rear needs to be turned down only to prevent premature lockup...I don't see how you'd be able to turn it UP to the rears. You could decrease the fronts with a prop-valve but that will not give more holding power to the rears either.

...am I missing something basic here?

Click to expand...

I won't really be turning them up per say. That is done by the pedal. I just mean not taking as much out, letting more pressure go to the rear. I was thinking I needed to do the fronts since they grab more than the back. Not realizing the backs are proportioned down.

 

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#17

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chepsk8 said:

My dream avatar...

View attachment 494819
(but I like my vintage Ford one!)

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PERFECT PIC!

GOT THE GIRLS,CARS, AND THE FLAG!