Pros and cons of different stroker motors

[Victor's GT]

I was interested in getting information on the pros and cons (if any) of different stroker motors whether it be 302 based or 351 based block for my intended use.

I've read things like less reciprocating mass, higher and faster rev capabailities, different piston speeds, affects of different bore sizes, longer vs. shorter rod, etc. that I assume should be considered.

Given a capable Dart block, would there be a better choice for a full weight street car (1993 GT) that would see only street duty? Spinning no more than 6400 rpms, hydraulic roller, centrifigal blower, manual, with 3:73s.

I assume torque is more important or desireable for a street car rather than horsepower

 

[83Mustang427TT]

I know on a 302 based 347 stroker the oil ring intersects with the piston pin slightly and causes the motor to burn oil,Though they where trying to find a fix for it I dont know if they ever did .or you could go with a 351W 393 stroker use a cleveland crank with the mains cut down stock 351W rods and 302 type pistons with a .30" overbore you will have a 393 I believe thats how it goes and there will be no engine oil problems and its relatively cheap

 

[R2D2]

I know on a 302 based 347 stroker the oil ring intersects with the piston pin slightly and causes the motor to burn oil,Though they where trying to find a fix for it I dont know if they ever did .or you could go with a 351W 393 stroker use a cleveland crank with the mains cut down stock 351W rods and 302 type pistons with a .30" overbore you will have a 393 I believe thats how it goes and there will be no engine oil problems and its relatively cheap

theres no oil problems with the 347, the 393 uses a 200 dollar 3.85 crank, stock length 351 rods and stock 302 pistons.

 

[83Mustang427TT]

Actually if you do a search of the 347 stroker there is a problem with the pin intersecting the ring and it does burn oil because of it but like I had said they may have now fixed it as this was a while ago

 

[R2D2]

Actually if you do a search of the 347 stroker there is a problem with the pin intersecting the ring and it does burn oil because of it but like I had said they may have now fixed it as this was a while ago

I built strokers 15+ years ago before it was all the rage, it all comes down to the builder. An engine builder is different from an engine assembler

 

[FullAuto]

Actually if you do a search of the 347 stroker there is a problem with the pin intersecting the ring and it does burn oil because of it but like I had said they may have now fixed it as this was a while ago

The 5.4" rod 347s intersect the pin. The 5.315" rod 347s do not. This supposed "cure" has been out for quite some time now. But I'm with sbftech, it's all about attention to detail. There are plenty of 5.4" rod 347s that don't use oil, but they weren't built at vo-tech.

 

[Grn92LX]

I built strokers 15+ years ago before it was all the rage, it all comes down to the builder. An engine builder is different from an engine assembler

VERY well said

Having the pin through the oil ring does NOT make a difference in terms of "oil burning". Listen to what sbftech is saying if you have a brain

 

[Victor's GT]

I think I may just opt to bolt on my existing set up (see sig) to a big bore 331 giving me a 347 and see how I like it.

 

[Grn92LX]

Why not a big bore "347" giving you 363 cubes for the same price?

 

[donsbad68]

eemmmmmm.... big bore.........yay

 

[Victor's GT]

Why not a big bore "347" giving you 363 cubes for the same price?

I guess that would be the better idea. How do you think my heads and intake will do on that size motor with my S-trim? Atleast for now.

 

[FullAuto]

For something like a 363", I'd rather have more head, intake and blower than you have. The heads and intake will work, they'll just create a higher boost number because they are more restrictive than some others that may be better suited for that size of motor. But that Vortech is definately going to be on the small side. I'd upgrade it immediately. You'll have to spin it hard to fill that.

Look at my combo. I have less cubic inches, same intake and a little better heads and I'm over 600rwhp at 13psi. I don't think a V2 would keep up.

 

[Victor's GT]

For something like a 363", I'd rather have more head, intake and blower than you have. The heads and intake will work, they'll just create a higher boost number because they are more restrictive than some others that may be better suited for that size of motor. But that Vortech is definately going to be on the small side. I'd upgrade it immediately. You'll have to spin it hard to fill that.

Look at my combo. I have less cubic inches, same intake and a little better heads and I'm over 600rwhp at 13psi. I don't think a V2 would keep up.

I agree with head and intake comment but disagree and think the S-trim would be fine. I mean, I've seen S-trims used on bigger strokers. And since I already have it I may as well try it.

 

[FullAuto]

I agree with head and intake comment but disagree and think the S-trim would be fine. I mean, I've seen S-trims used on bigger strokers. And since I already have it I may as well try it.

Sure they are used on larger engines, but what kind of numbers are they putting out? It's a 1000cfm blower. Are you wanting to build a 363" big bore Dart block motor to make 550-600rwhp max effort? That's a waste if you ask me. Through your 5 speed, that might support right up to the 600rwhp barrier, then you're done.

I'd rather buy a blower I could just set on "cruise" than have one work it's a$$ off trying to keep up.

 

[95conv5.0]

Actually if you do a search of the 347 stroker there is a problem with the pin intersecting the ring and it does burn oil because of it but like I had said they may have now fixed it as this was a while ago

rookie! thats a old myth and if built correctly, it wont burn anymore oil then a stock 302

 

[blkcobra50]

Yeah a T trim or the even bigger YSi trim would be more efficient but since Victor already has a S-trim. I'd say go with that and see what #'s you put out. Like he said it will be a street car, plus with a big bore 347 he is lookin for more mid range torque not so much top end hp. Torque is most important when getting on it from a roll. That's the idea of a powerful street car IMO.

 

[Victor's GT]

Yeah a T trim or the even bigger YSi trim would be more efficient but since Victor already has a S-trim. I'd say go with that and see what #'s you put out. Like he said it will be a street car, plus with a big bore 347 he is lookin for more mid range torque not so much top end hp. Torque is most important when getting on it from a roll. That's the idea of a powerful street car IMO.

My thoughts exactly

 

[jrichker]

For an engine that will last 100,000 miles +, do a good 327/331 stroker. It is a drop in and no changes to motor mount or headers that are needed with a 351 swap. It is lighter than a 351 and less problems to install.

 

[blkcobra50]

For an engine that will last 100,000 miles +, do a good 327/331 stroker. It is a drop in and no changes to motor mount or headers that are needed with a 351 swap. It is lighter than a 351 and less problems to install.

You are right no change to motor mounts, etc... and also something that needs to be changed is the blower bracket as it is different for a 351 than it is on a 302. Thats a few hundred saved right there not having to send the bracket to vortech so they can modify it.

 

[Woodrow]

Please stop with the nonsense about 347's using oil, bad rod to stroke ratio, ect because you are full of ****. Since I cant say it better myself, and dont fell like doing all that typing.

I am sure you have never built one (347). You are stating things that you have heard or read. This is the problem with people being able to roam and post freely with no attrention being paid the accuracy of what they posting. You are being led down a path of inaccuracy.

I ask you. Please tell the EXACT difference between a 347 in terms of:

-Cylinder wall load? The difference between a 331 & 347 in a lbs per inch, the number of miles where the block will wear out, anything please.

-How much the ring being the pin hurts? Longevity. Ring flutter. Anything.

-What affect does rod ratio have (exact answer, not basic theory). If the R/S ratio was 1.60 vs 1.55 how much MORE power *could* be made?

-Notching the block has what negative affect? This is a new one.

The PROOF that dispells that entire theory is a 400 cid SBC. 5.565" rod with a 3.75" stroke. 400 Chevy's from the factory had CAST junk azz pistons. Find me (1) 400 Chevy guy that wishes his rod to stroke ratio was better or says his engine wore out prematurely. The problem/myths about a 347 are all because there are FAR too many people who try to build engines that shouldn't be doing it. When the engine fails they don't have the nuts to blame themself. I/myself RUINED (completely destroyed) 2 347's before I LEARNED what to do. This was 15 years ago,

The only time to build a smaller engine is when you want to make less power or you are racing lbs/cid.

Anyone can argue these points. But untill THOSE who claim to know something build a few and can say either way, its all CONJECTURE that is based on inaccurate myths.

Good Luck on your decisions!