Pulled codes...need some help.

[BlooDReigN]

Well, I made a post earlier about my car not starting up anymore. It died on me while I was driving it one day, and it wouldn't start back up for some reason. I have pretty well went through the entire start up check list now and that didn't really lead me anywhere. I have spark at the spark plugs, fuel pressure and my injectors are pulsing, so I'm getting kinda lost on what this problem could be.

Today I pulled the codes on the car doing a KOEO test only because the car does not run. Here are the codes that I got.

15 Read Only Memory test failure

Any idea what the hell this means?? Could it be my ECU is dead?

23 Throttle position out of range

I checked this and it's as close as I can get it at 1.08 volts. I can't get it to go any lower, but this worked fine when the car was running before.

67 Neutral drive switch

I knew this one would come up....My neutral safety switch doesn't work and I intend on leaving it that way

85 Canister purge circuit.

If this is referring to the charcoal cannister, I got rid of that thing and made sure there are no vacuum leaks because of it.


If anybody can give me some additional information on these codes (especially 15) that would be awesome.


THANKS.

 

[HISSIN50]

Jrichker will be along with the master list shortly.

DO you have a chip? That can cause 15 if the tuner doesnt take care of the checksum.

You're right about the CANP code.



Good luck.

 

[BlooDReigN]

Yes, I do have an SCT chip on my ECU, but I have a 2005 Mustang mass air meter that is dependent on some of the parameters set in the chip, so I can't really remove it to test if it fixes the problem.

 

[BlooDReigN]

Oh, another thing...when I tested if my injectors were pulsing...the test light wasn't very bright when it flashed...I'm not sure if that's normal or not. If it's not normal could this have some relation to my problem?

 

[HISSIN50]

Oh, another thing...when I tested if my injectors were pulsing...the test light wasn't very bright when it flashed...I'm not sure if that's normal or not. If it's not normal could this have some relation to my problem?

Cool. I wasnt suggesting to remove the chip - only that it can account for the code 15.

If you are using a conventional test light (non-LED), that can be normal. The ground pulse is so quick that the light just barely starts to light up before the circuit opens. Then it 'glows down' slowly (relatively speaking) so it's still slightly lit by the next time the circuit closes. It's kinda like riding a bike at night with a mechanically-powered headlight - the light spools up and down kinda slowly.

Noid lights are LED's because they go on an off real quick so you can see a definite flash.

The fact that you see flashing at all indicates your injector circuit(s) is/are working though, and that is useful info in my book.

 

[BlooDReigN]

Well if I have an injector pulse would that mean that my computer is not faulty then?

Seeing as I have spark at the plugs, power at the injectors, injectors are pulsing and good compression in every cylinder (165psi +/- 3psi), I don't have any idea where to go with hunting down this problem anymore. Seems like I've tried pretty well everything except the computer. Is there any way to test if it is faulty before I just go and toss a new one in it?

 

[BlooDReigN]

Alright...well after further investigation tonight, I discovered the problem.


All I have to say is I HATE this stupid MSD distributor that I bought. What a complete hunk of crap it is.

Turns out the problem I was having is from the alignment pin on the distributor gear SHEARING off and allowing the gear to rotate on the distributor shaft. This caused my timing to go WAYYYYYY out of wack (I would guesstimate it was about 80-100 degrees out by the way the rotor was sitting in the distributor in relation to the position of the crankshaft ) This is the second MAJOR issue this MSD distributor has had in the under 400km's I have driven with it. Needless to say I'm completely unimpressed with this piece.

 

[HISSIN50]

Nice work figuring it out. That would have been about #1001 on my list of crap to fail.

The dizzy failure hurts - them things aint cheap. I'd probably give them a phone call because I can think of no instance where that should occur. I'd hope they would take it back for forensics and free/low-cost repair or swap it out for you.

 

[jrichker]

Code 23 - Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high - TPS needs to be reset to below 1.2 volts at idle. Keep in mind that when you turn the idle screw to set the idle speed, you change the TPS setting.
You'll need a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job.

Wire colors & functions:
Orange/white = 5 volt VREF from the computer
Dark Green/lt green = TPS output to computer
Black/white = Signal ground from computer

Always use the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to set the TPS base voltage.

Do the test with the ignition switch in the Run position without the engine running.

Use the Orange/white & Black white wires to verify the TPS has the correct 5 volts source from the computer.

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .6.v-.9 v.

1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

If setting the TPS doesn’t fix the problem, then you may have wiring problems.
With the power off, measure the resistance between the black/white wire and battery ground. You should see less than 1 ohm. Check the same black /white wire on the TPS and MAP/Baro sensor. More than 1 ohm there and the wire is probably broken in the harness between the engine and the computer. The 10 pin connectors pass the black/white wire back to the computer, and can cause problems.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

See http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=6 for more wiring help & 10 pin connector diagrams

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.

The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the car from being driven while the computer is in test mode. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

 

[BlooDReigN]

Nice work figuring it out. That would have been about #1001 on my list of crap to fail.

The dizzy failure hurts - them things aint cheap. I'd probably give them a phone call because I can think of no instance where that should occur. I'd hope they would take it back for forensics and free/low-cost repair or swap it out for you.

Yeah...it certainly wasn't very high on my list of things to fail either. I removed the gear last night. I'm just gonna get a new pin to go in there and fix it myself rather than wait weeks and weeks for MSD to make the problem right...if they even would.