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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

pulled engine apart

  • Thread starter Thread starter alecracing
  • Start date Start date Apr 2, 2009
A

alecracing

New Member
Dec 6, 2008
18
0
1
Ft Lauderdale, FL
Apr 2, 2009
#1
  • Apr 2, 2009
  • #1
We bought a '95 Mustang with a 351W in it for our students to build into a "Drag Car"

Well, I had the students pull the 351W out

Compression and leakdown were good except for Cylinder #5 so I figured we would freshen the thing up with new rings and bearings. Found out that the pistons are .040 over, the connecting rod bearings were showing a lot of copper, the cylinder walls look scored, and the crankshaft is grooved on some of the rod journals.

So I was looking into stroking it and found that you can have the crank reground to a 3.7 inch stroke. That and a .060 bore should give me a 383. I don't really like going that big with a bore, but from the looks of the cylinder walls, it's either that or start with a new block since it's already .040 over.

Question is:

Can I use this crankshaft? What do they grind to make it offset? What are the best pistons and rods to use?

and

with a .060 over bore is a power adder going to be a problem?

REMEMBER: this is a RACE ONLY car...no street driving, just strip
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Apr 2, 2009
#2
  • Apr 2, 2009
  • #2
I suggest you have that block "sonic checked". Doing this will give you information on how much wall is left, and how symmetrical it is 360* for each cylinder.

Offset grinding the crank will include cleaning up your mains and offset grinding your rod journals.

Probe makes nice pieces at an affordable price. I have a distributor with prices that probably can't be beat.

If the block is useable after 4.060" bore, I also suggest you half "fill" it, and use a good girdle to keep your "cap walk" to a minimum.

Good luck with your project! I envy your students... wish my school had done this when I was a kid.

Dana
 
A

alecracing

New Member
Dec 6, 2008
18
0
1
Ft Lauderdale, FL
Apr 2, 2009
#3
  • Apr 2, 2009
  • #3
What is a good block fill?

I need to find a good machine shop around here
 

Modular2v

Founding Member
Jun 30, 2002
3,222
23
99
oklahoma
Apr 2, 2009
#4
  • Apr 2, 2009
  • #4
alecracing said:
What is a good block fill?

I need to find a good machine shop around here
Click to expand...

I think he is refering to grouting it....It will take away from the cooling capacity though.
 
A

alecracing

New Member
Dec 6, 2008
18
0
1
Ft Lauderdale, FL
Apr 2, 2009
#5
  • Apr 2, 2009
  • #5
Modular2v said:
I think he is refering to grouting it....It will take away from the cooling capacity though.
Click to expand...

Yes, I understand what he means but I have never had a Drag Strip ONLY car so i have never filled a block before. I was just wondering what people use to fill the block and how high they fill them.

Since it won't see the street, I doubt if cooling will be a problem
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Apr 2, 2009
#6
  • Apr 2, 2009
  • #6
Hard Blok brand is one type.
Moroso also makes a 2part filler.

Absolutely need a "good" to "great" machine shop. Finding one is the difficult task.
 
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