We bought a '95 Mustang with a 351W in it for our students to build into a "Drag Car"
Well, I had the students pull the 351W out
Compression and leakdown were good except for Cylinder #5 so I figured we would freshen the thing up with new rings and bearings. Found out that the pistons are .040 over, the connecting rod bearings were showing a lot of copper, the cylinder walls look scored, and the crankshaft is grooved on some of the rod journals.
So I was looking into stroking it and found that you can have the crank reground to a 3.7 inch stroke. That and a .060 bore should give me a 383. I don't really like going that big with a bore, but from the looks of the cylinder walls, it's either that or start with a new block since it's already .040 over.
Question is:
Can I use this crankshaft? What do they grind to make it offset? What are the best pistons and rods to use?
and
with a .060 over bore is a power adder going to be a problem?
REMEMBER: this is a RACE ONLY car...no street driving, just strip
Well, I had the students pull the 351W out
Compression and leakdown were good except for Cylinder #5 so I figured we would freshen the thing up with new rings and bearings. Found out that the pistons are .040 over, the connecting rod bearings were showing a lot of copper, the cylinder walls look scored, and the crankshaft is grooved on some of the rod journals.
So I was looking into stroking it and found that you can have the crank reground to a 3.7 inch stroke. That and a .060 bore should give me a 383. I don't really like going that big with a bore, but from the looks of the cylinder walls, it's either that or start with a new block since it's already .040 over.
Question is:
Can I use this crankshaft? What do they grind to make it offset? What are the best pistons and rods to use?
and
with a .060 over bore is a power adder going to be a problem?
REMEMBER: this is a RACE ONLY car...no street driving, just strip
