pulled engine apart

We bought a '95 Mustang with a 351W in it for our students to build into a "Drag Car":nice:

Well, I had the students pull the 351W out

Compression and leakdown were good except for Cylinder #5 so I figured we would freshen the thing up with new rings and bearings. Found out that the pistons are .040 over, the connecting rod bearings were showing a lot of copper, the cylinder walls look scored, and the crankshaft is grooved on some of the rod journals.

So I was looking into stroking it and found that you can have the crank reground to a 3.7 inch stroke. That and a .060 bore should give me a 383. I don't really like going that big with a bore, but from the looks of the cylinder walls, it's either that or start with a new block since it's already .040 over.

Question is:

Can I use this crankshaft? What do they grind to make it offset? What are the best pistons and rods to use?

and

with a .060 over bore is a power adder going to be a problem?

REMEMBER: this is a RACE ONLY car...no street driving, just strip
 
I suggest you have that block "sonic checked". Doing this will give you information on how much wall is left, and how symmetrical it is 360* for each cylinder.

Offset grinding the crank will include cleaning up your mains and offset grinding your rod journals.

Probe makes nice pieces at an affordable price. I have a distributor with prices that probably can't be beat.

If the block is useable after 4.060" bore, I also suggest you half "fill" it, and use a good girdle to keep your "cap walk" to a minimum.

Good luck with your project! I envy your students... wish my school had done this when I was a kid.

Dana