Pulling motor on 68 Fastback

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Ford_Racing44

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Nov 10, 2004

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Jul 18, 2005

#1

• Jul 18, 2005

• #1

My uncle owns a 68 mustang fastback, with a 289 in it. and he picked up a 351 Cleveland and we are planning on putting it in this week. he works till 2 in the afternoon and wants me to have the 289 "ready to be yanked out" when he gets home tuesday afternoon, and i really dont know what all has to come off to get the motor out. i know the basics, like exhaust, air cleaner, wires, stuff like that, but what else?

 

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gjz30075

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Roswell, Ga

Jul 18, 2005

#2

• Jul 18, 2005

• #2

You can have the nuts off the bolts on the motor mounts so as soon as the load is off the mounts, the bolts will slip out; a time saver. If you're bolting up to the same trans, take out most of the bellhousing bolts and have a support ready for the trans. Also, take off the starter.

 

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User Name

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Apr 8, 2005

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Jul 18, 2005

#3

• Jul 18, 2005

• #3

Id start with the hood then all top stuff like exhaust manifolds,coolant,bell housing,assorted wires,fuel line and throttle linkage,carb(for clearance) then bottom motor mounts,torque converter bolts ect. On that car everything should be straight foward. If you need more details feel free to email me. BTW a 351 cleaveland wont bolt up to 289 motor mounts or tranny. A 351 windsor will

 

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Ford_Racing44

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Jul 18, 2005

#4

• Jul 18, 2005

• #4

i dunno if we will have problems getting the 351C in there, all i know is this is one of the 4 cars my uncle has restored and he knows his *****

 

dodgestang

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Dec 15, 2003

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Cecil County, MD

Jul 18, 2005

#5

• Jul 18, 2005

• #5

User Name said:

BTW a 351 cleaveland wont bolt up to 289 motor mounts or tranny. A 351 windsor will

Click to expand...

351c bolts in with all the small block stuff...because it is a small block

 

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mustangbrad

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Aug 16, 2004

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Jul 18, 2005

#6

• Jul 18, 2005

• #6

If you are going to pull the tranny with the motor, you could have the drive shaft out and tranny unbolted from the crossmember ahead of time.

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

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Minneapolis

Jul 18, 2005

#7

• Jul 18, 2005

• #7

A few things you mentioned do not have to be touched. The motor can be pulled as a complete unit and IMO it's easiest to pull the transmission with it.

I would start by draining the fluids and then pull the radiator. Then disconnect the exhaust and the wires and linkages to the motor. You will want to remove the shifter and the kickdown and the driveshaft as mentioned above. Mark the orientation of the driveshaft with the end of the differential so you get it back together the same way it came apart.

One thing that is easy to forget is the ground strap to the motor.

Depending on how much you are going to rely on your uncle to get everything back together, I would use masking tape and a magic marker to label where everything goes and take plenty of pictures.

 

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Ford_Racing44

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Jul 18, 2005

#8

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• #8

update

got the motor out today, started with radiator, sawed off the headers cuz he didnt want them, took off the hood, carb, wires,power steering pump, alternator, fan, then put it up on the hoist and took off the starter, motor mounts, bolts on bellhousing, put the car back down, pulled it out with the cherry picker....no problems......yet

we then realized that the motor/tranny came out of a 64, so the bell housing is a 5 bolt instead of 6 bolt i believe, so theres our first problem. new stall converter is the same so thats good, so now we are at a stand still, so my uncle calls his buddy who ends up having a tranny that will work that we can just rob the bellhousing from, so tomorrow is a new day...

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

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Minneapolis

Jul 19, 2005

#9

• Jul 19, 2005

• #9

Lots of progress!

Pulling a motor is a fun project. I hope you're having a good time with it. Let us know how the rest goes - and I bet the Cleveland will be fun in that car!

 

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User Name

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Jul 19, 2005

#10

• Jul 19, 2005

• #10

dodgestang said:

351c bolts in with all the small block stuff...because it is a small block

Click to expand...

Are you sure? I always thought it shared the same block as the 351 M and 460. My friend has one in his 72 mach and it looks really wide. Someone enlighten me.

 

dodgestang

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Cecil County, MD

Jul 19, 2005

#11

• Jul 19, 2005

• #11

User Name said:

Are you sure? I always thought it shared the same block as the 351 M and 460. My friend has one in his 72 mach and it looks really wide. Someone enlighten me.

Click to expand...

I am sure....I have a 351c in my 65 with an AOD.

 

LMan

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Aug 10, 2002

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Mom's basement

Jul 19, 2005

#12

• Jul 19, 2005

• #12

'looks wide' doesn't equate to 'big block'

 

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a.vannoy

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Apr 13, 2005

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Jul 19, 2005

#13

• Jul 19, 2005

• #13

User Name said:

Are you sure? I always thought it shared the same block as the 351 M and 460. My friend has one in his 72 mach and it looks really wide. Someone enlighten me.

Click to expand...

I think you are right, the 351c will only hook to a small block c-6 and not the c-4

 

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mustangbrad

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Aug 16, 2004

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Jul 19, 2005

#14

• Jul 19, 2005

• #14

User Name said:

Are you sure? I always thought it shared the same block as the 351 M and 460. My friend has one in his 72 mach and it looks really wide. Someone enlighten me.

Click to expand...

A 351C and 351M share virtually everything except the tranny bolt pattern. The 351C has the "small block" bolt pattern like a 289, 302, & 351W, while the 351M and 400 have the same tranny bolt pattern as the 429-460. The 400 is basically a stroked 351M. Other than the tranny bolt pattern the 460 and 351M share nothing. They both (460 & 351M) have canted valve heads, but they are not interchangeable. I hope this clears some things up, I know it can get confusing. Think how boring it would be if it was just small block & big block stuff like the Chevy guys. We have 2 kinds of small blocks (351W & 351C) 2 kinds of big blocks (FE's & 385 series) and the hermaphradites (351M & 400). Not to mention the "Y" blocks and "Flat heads".

For those of you that don't know
FE = 390,427,428 to name a few
385 Series = 429 & 460

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

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Jul 19, 2005

#15

• Jul 19, 2005

• #15

Actually. a 351M is a DEstroked 400. In other words; a 351 crank in a 400 block.

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

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Minneapolis

Jul 19, 2005

#16

• Jul 19, 2005

• #16

a.vannoy said:

I think you are right, the 351c will only hook to a small block c-6 and not the c-4

Click to expand...

No. The 351C has the small block pattern same as the 302 and 351W and the straight sixes. It will bolt up to a C4.

 

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Ford_Racing44

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Nov 10, 2004

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Jul 20, 2005

#17

• Jul 20, 2005

• #17

got the new bellhousing...and got the 351 bolted in with the motor mounts before i went to football. tomorrow begins the process of putting everything back on and hoping all goes well, still have to rig up a new radiator since the hose is on the opposite side on this motor. should be sweet, ill get some pictures up here of the finished product...when its finished

 

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mustangbrad

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Aug 16, 2004

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Jul 20, 2005

#18

• Jul 20, 2005

• #18

Sounds like you are moving at a good pace.