I assume you're pulling it with the car on jackstands? Get it as high as you safely can. I built some stands for under the wheels to get it about two feet off the ground. I also made a jig that bolted to my floor jack for a DIY transmission jack. I've pulled the T5 on my car a couple times by myself. Take your time and make sure the car is securely supported. If a fat old guy like me can do it, anybody can.Thanks man. I guess we'll learn more as I get further. Almost ready to pull the tranny. I'm on my own so.... Well, I have been since I started this.
Sounds like a leaky tail shaft seal. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-7052A/83-95-Mustang-T-5-AOD-Tailshaft-Seal So I'm doing an entire clutch job. Is it worth is to just replace that seal? I would hate to put the tranny back in and have to pull it all over again.
I assume you're pulling it with the car on jackstands? Get it as high as you safely can. I built some stands for under the wheels to get it about two feet off the ground. I also made a jig that bolted to my floor jack for a DIY transmission jack. I've pulled the T5 on my car a couple times by myself. Take your time and make sure the car is securely supported. If a fat old guy like me can do it, anybody can.'m a fat old dude too. Just depends on the time of year. just got the drive shaft out. No issues.
The yoke is really smooth other than two very lightly worn lines. One doesn't catch my finger nail at all and the other one barely does. It's hard to explain. I can feel it with my nail but it doesn't really stop me from running my nail along it. Also, do the input shafts usually have a wobble? There's no in and out play at all, but side to side a little bit.Don’t just change the seal. I would change the bushing inside the tail shaft housing as well. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-7034A/83-95-Mustang-T-5-Tailshaft-Bushing
Also take a look at the yoke on the end of the driveshaft. If that looks worn down, it could be part of the problem as well. I would change the yoke and the bushing at the same time so they wear in together.
They will move a little up and down when out of the car. In and out play is what you don’t want.The yoke is really smooth other than two very lightly worn lines. One doesn't catch my finger nail at all and the other one barely does. It's hard to explain. I can feel it with my nail but it doesn't really stop me from running my nail along it. Also, do the input shafts usually have a wobble? There's no in and out play at all, but side to side a little bit.
I think he was asking about both input shaft as well as the tail shaft/ yoke assembly, unless I misunderstood?+1 to what the general said.
I think @Rdub6 has it backwards. The tailshaft yoke slides fore and aft a bit to make up for geometry changes as the differential moves up and down. Remember A squared plus B squared = C squared? A is from the tail shaft to the vertical position of the pinion shaft. B is the distance from that line parallel to the body down to the pinion shaft center. C is the length of the driveshaft. Although B changes through an arc with wheel movement, it does change in length as the suspension moves. So C also changes and something has to make up the difference in length. Driveshaft length also changes under hard acceleration and braking. A torque arm suspension helps this by making the suspension travel arc is one of a longer circle where C (driveshaft length) is the radius or close to it, but I doubt you have one.
But side to side or up and down movement indicate a worn tailshaft and or bushing. Besides eventual vibrations you will notice, the seal will not last long.
Now if there is a ridge on the yoke from where it most often hits the seal, that ridge will not be good on the seal every time you go over a bump.
I might have misunderstood based on my experience with worn tailshaft bushing replacements.I think he was asking about both input shaft as well as the tail shaft/ yoke assembly, unless I misunderstood?
My in/ out, side to side was referring to the input shaft.
Sorry if I confused things @AbhorrentSpecies
I guess we’ll wait for the OP and see what he meant...... hopefully one of the three of us answered his question!I might have misunderstood based on my experience with worn tailshaft bushing replacements.
Yeah, I have no hour glass or wear into the actual yoke. Just two very fine lines. And the input shaft has no in and out play at all. Just side to side up and down and it's minor.They will move a little up and down when out of the car. In and out play is what you don’t want.
Hard to say on your yoke and bushing without seeing it. On mine, I could almost see an hourglass shape in the yoke where it was riding on the bushing.
Worse case is, you just change the seal, and it holds for a while. But if there is any play in the yoke/bushing, it will have the seal leaking again pretty quick.
Completely understood. So both the output shaft and input shaft of the tranny has a tiny bit of up and down side to side. Nothing measurable in and out. The output shaft has only very little movement. Input is a little worse.+1 to what the general said.
I think @Rdub6 has it backwards. The tailshaft yoke slides fore and aft a bit to make up for geometry changes as the differential moves up and down. Remember A squared plus B squared = C squared? A is from the tail shaft to the vertical position of the pinion shaft. B is the distance from that line parallel to the body down to the pinion shaft center. C is the length of the driveshaft. Although B changes through an arc with wheel movement, it does change in length as the suspension moves. So C also changes and something has to make up the difference in length. Driveshaft length also changes under hard acceleration and braking. A torque arm suspension helps this by making the suspension travel arc is one of a longer circle where C (driveshaft length) is the radius or close to it, but I doubt you have one.
But side to side or up and down movement indicate a worn tailshaft and or bushing. Besides eventual vibrations you will notice, the seal will not last long.
Now if there is a ridge on the yoke from where it most often hits the seal, that ridge will not be good on the seal every time you go over a bump
Input shaft (front of trans) I would say is probably fine.Id say something like 1/8 inch up and down on the input and maybe a 1/16 of an inch in the output shaft. Maybe less. I have no gauge obviously. Just spit balling. Okay, using a measuring stick i round outside, it's more like 1/16 on the input and 1/32 on the output
No, the yoke has got minor scratches. The output or tailshaft of the trans. Not the driveshaft.Input shaft (front of trans) I would say is probably fine.
When you say output shaft, are you talking about the yoke attached to the driveshaft?
While he was a bad mother.. there's too many shafts is the problem lol. But I'm specifically talking about the trans at this point. Not the driveshaft.No, the yoke has got minor scratches. The output or tailshaft of the trans. Not the driveshaft.
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