Pushrod Problems

[Maryland Stang]

Those guide plates should work fine. You'll also need the correct length hardened pushrods to go with the guide plates. In order to determine the correct length pushrods you're going to have to remove the intake and install a solid lifter or remove an intake and exhaust spring and install checking springs. Then you'll need an adjustable pushrod checking tool.

You do not need the conversion kit you referenced above. You already have studs.

 

[95PGTTech]

well, at least we know it simply wasn't us being completely retarded and not setting the torque spec. right or not following the directions.

adam, stfu, you are made of money.






this would also look pretty nice on the front of that motor
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elec...002QQitemZ120214252637QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

a used set of these would look pretty damn good on the side of the motor
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-9...020QQitemZ300194508355QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
and be insanely easier to install how we have the motor now...

and before your endless lists of excuse come in, we have a welder, we have plenty of time until spring, you can sell the shorties/H pipe, and you have plenty of time moneybags to work, and you might actually have some low end torque then so you don't sound like a honda.

I'm still betting ten bucks you're either going to be thinking about a stroker, a twin screw, or a nitrous kit after this. or both. or all three.


always being helpful, I am I am.

 

[Adam95GT]

The rockers have a flat spot fot the nut to sit on.... or i guess in this case a poly lock... so what exactly do i need... im almost positive the TFS hardened 6.7's that i have should work fine...

so all i need is guidelpates and what else???

in this pic you can somewhat see the flat spots... the peice that sits in the washer is a half spherical shape with the rounded part pointing down...

 

[95PGTTech]

Yeah, those are stud mount...you need stud mount rockers, guideplates, and hardened pushrods.

Pull a rocker off and look at the fulcrum. A stud mount rocker will have a flat spot which faces up for the polylocks to sit against. The rest of the fulcrum will be round.

does anyone have a correct adjustment procedure for stud mount so we don't have to go hunting again after he picks up the guideplates and rockers?



Also, what do you recommend doing about the single stud that has a both .030 and .060 shim below it? only one. all others have a single .030.

 

[Adam95GT]

you know me 2 well chris... but im not made of money friend.... im still trying to set aside cash for you and rich for helping me...

 

[Adam95GT]

does anyone have a correct adjustment procedure for stud mount so we don't have to go hunting again after he picks up the guideplates and rockers?



Also, what do you recommend doing about the single stud that has a both .030 and .060 shim below it? only one. all others have a single .030.

I think i can use the curent rockers.... not sure however


they say stud mount under summit...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-1431-1&autoview=sku

 

[95PGTTech]

you know me 2 well chris... but im not made of money friend.... im still trying to set aside cash for you and rich for helping me...

you have until spring mr. work 3 days a week
and I told you before modifications > paying me
this **** is fun, y0




and there is no way in hell I am helping you put on longtubes after this motor goes in and you make 54 ft./lbs. torque until 3700 rpm and decide it was a good idea. a twin screw or a nitrous kit are topside so I'll help with that.

yes, I know, it's my job to make your life difficult and your decisions even more so.

 

[Adam95GT]

you have until spring mr. work 3 days a week
and I told you before modifications > paying me
this **** is fun, y0




and there is no way in hell I am helping you put on longtubes after this motor goes in and you make 54 ft./lbs. torque until 3700 rpm and decide it was a good idea. a twin screw or a nitrous kit are topside so I'll help with that.

yes, I know, it's my job to make your life difficult and your decisions even more so.

Lets see what this rocker problem ends up setting me back... then maybe you can talk me in to LT's

 

[95PGTTech]

this is a closer view of what we are working with. I cannot even read the brand name inscription in person so I'm not sure how anyone can in these pictures, but they lack the 442 inscription on the ones you linked. these have an H where those say H442

I searched by that part number on google for anything with a close up of the inscription, it looks close to correct but the pics are from pretty far away.

 

[Adam95GT]

They are comp cams magnium rocker arms chris... 1.6's

H- is probaly the rail type...

 

[95PGTTech]

Lets see what this rocker problem ends up setting me back... then maybe you can talk me in to LT's

your reasoning is flawed. this is not a rocker problem. after hanging out with rich and I more, you will see why this should be called a reason to upgrade. if it were him or I, we'd probably be doing a new cam, new lifters, new rocker arms and complete stud conversion kit, 1.7's etc.

'just to be safe'

you should have seen us on the STi. oh, radiator is dirty, look at that. time for a high performance polished one, silicone couplers, polished supports and brackets and shroud. oh, that looks crappy with the stock overflow tank, we'll have to get one of those polished too. $1000+ later...

You should hear us about the headgaskets...hmm, chris, don't really want to do all that ****** work without some serious headgaskets, and since we have the heads off ported headwork, valvejob, valvetrain, valves, cams...lol...wouldn't it be easier just to do a forged longblock while we're at it, just drop right in. a fully done one with the cams and headwork that can take 600+ is around $6000 lmao. and then we start going on be a shame to have all that potential and just that little 30R doing 405whp...35R time...which means dyno time...and he promised last time I did the fuel system on that that when he went 35R I could redo the whole thing with a sumped tank, a1000, rc 1000's, and stainless lines. hehe, where does the money go into these cars......:Zip2:

 

[95PGTTech]

They are comp cams magnium rocker arms chris... 1.6's

H- is probaly the rail type...

I figured I would make sure.
You can never give people helping you too much information.
Considering we thought those were pedestal mount.

 

[SQUEEZE&STROKE]

When you put the guideplates in (edelbrock makes a set IIRC), take the shims out from under the studs...no need for them. While those rockers "might" work, I wouldnt use them...I would get a set of Stud mounts...crane or comp both make good sets.

As far as adjusting, (for each cylinder) I turned the motor over until the exhaust valve opens, put the intake rocker on, turn the polylock until zero lash, tighten 1/2 turn, lock it. Turn motor over again until the intake valve opens, then do the same for the exhaust. I need to adjust them agai, as it has only been run in the driveway, but I had good results with this method.

 

[SQUEEZE&STROKE]

After looking at the rocker again, It wont work. If you look at a serious stud mount rocker, you will notice the amount of movement on the fulcrum is unlimited...meaning if you hold the fulcrum only, the rocker will spin around it completely. There is limited movement on the type you have.

 

[Adam95GT]

I need some clear answers... can i use my curent rockers or not????

If i need new rockers do i still get a rail type???

Do i need The pushrod guide plates????

 

[divit250r]

I need some clear answers... can i use my curent rockers or not????

If i need new rockers do i still get a rail type???

Do i need The pushrod guide plates????

The proven system is guide plates, hardened pushrods, studs, poly-lock rocker arm adjusters, and reputable brand roller rocker arms. What you have now are an older design that was based off Ford's rail-guided rocker arms (no roller tips). The guide plates sandwich under the hex shank on the studs, no shims necessary. Then you just use the poly-locks to adjust the lifters.

I know it's a lot more $$ and parts than you have, but if it were me it's the way I'd go. Good luck!

Scott

 

[Adam95GT]

can i just buy the poly locks and guide plates and get these to work???

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

the style rockers you have are designed to work without guideplates the guide is on the nose of the rocker arm. they are called rail type

however these are prone to having clearance issues with big lift camshafts at the retainer and I fear you will have the same trouble.

the locking nuts you have are designed to work with those rockers, but can be replaced with poly locks if you would like.

i think that pushrod is actually a little long for that setup but you need to do a stem sweep and make sure, and for gods sake get the washers out from under your studs and put sealer on the threads or yiou will drink oil through the threads.

put one cylinder on the cams base circle and place both rocker, and pushrods assemblies on your studs spin the pushrod with your finger while snugging the rocker nut until you feel tension on the pushrod, give the nut a 1/2 turn and your done go to the exhaust valve. then rotate your engine over by hand and watch the rocker and valve stem if the rocker goes way over center towards exhaust port you need shorter pushrods.

 

[Adam95GT]

Punisher how sure are you on that... and how exactly do i tell if my push rods are too long... didnt really under stand that....

my cam's lift is only a .51 IIRC....
Here are the actual specs....

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=6
use your existing pushrods and follow these steps to check for sure