Suspension Quad shocks

keel

Active Member
Aug 23, 2020
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Seattle, Wa
I have OE quad shocks on my car and I'm looking to refresh them. I had them off the car recently and they don't return to the extended position on their own anymore after compressing them by hand. No wheel hop issues or anything I'm just particular.

I was wondering if there were any real differences that you guys have noticed about quad shocks based on the price/brand because I see that you can get Gabriels for dirt cheap and I would love to save some $ and get those unless they suck.
 
Quad shocks don't return to position after compression, I think they are more or less dampers than shocks.
You could use whatever, i highly doubt you will know the difference.
 
Quad shocks don't return to position after compression, I think they are more or less dampers than shocks.
You could use whatever, i highly doubt you will know the difference.
Oh good to know, maybe mine aren't even bad then.
With quality upper and lower control arms quad shocks are Unnecessary!!!
Remember Ford used them as a bandaid for wheel hop.
They clear my wheels and tires so I figure I might as well just keep them.
 
FWIW--I'm still running 307k mile stock quad shocks, the right one is slightly damp/likely shot. No issues.

As stated before, run good LCA's and good bushings in the uppers and you'll be fine.
 
In my experience i think there is a little more to it.
On my old setup i preferred to run them, without them with Steeda heavy duty lowers with 3 piece bushings and nitto drag radials it still wheel hopped.
Then i switched to BFG drad radials and it was better, but not totally right. I put them back on and it was fine.
Then I went MM lowers with a torque arm and PHB and i removed them.
Imo, if they fit, run them.
 
I still run my quad shocks.

Even with MM control arms, new uppers, all new bushings, bilstiens (tokico's previously) panhard bar and checking my pinion angle I had some hop. So i put them back on and problem went away.
 
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I have Bilstien quads. I have no clearance issues with 9" wheels and 275 tires so no reason to remove them even though I may not need them.

I can't vouch for all brands, but these definitely return to the fully extended position, about 2-3" past fully extended. They are fairly difficult to compress and get installed before it expands. I got the finger nail of shame from one. Pinched it good. 4 months with a black finger nail and the remnants of a 1/8" cobalt steel drill bit hole in it :)
 
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I never installed them when I built the car 23 years ago. When I ran the stock suspension and drove the car daily there were zero issues. I started with Maximum Motorsports parts so with the police duty uppers and MM lowers and have never had a problem. I also think that wheel hop can be an issue with dampers. I was running Tokico Illumina adjustable rear shocks and that probably helped as well.

Seems to me most that have issues when they remove them and either the suspension is not in good shape (front and rear) and I have even seen it where the pinion angle has not been checked and correcting that helps. I have also seen where urethane bushings are used and it puts the rear suspension in one hell of a bind.

I would say that if you have them and there are no issues then keep them on but if you do not have them try it without and go from there. I know the ones that @nicholase is running are high quality and I know Koni makes them as well. If you want to get stupid Racecraft (Saleen) makes some but holy hell they are pricey.
 
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I genuinely think tires play a part in it.
All season tires suck and are pretty much useless, i wouldn't be surprised if these didn't wheel hop. On the other hand summer high performance and especially competition style tires get warm and soft, then they struggle for grip.

Wheel hop is destructive to the car, i'd do whatever it takes to prevent it.
 
Lots of things will play into the wheel hop scenario...

We get wheel hop from axle wrap. The quad shocks are snubbers that help prevent that initial twist/shock when torque hits the rear end.

UCAs, LCAs, Tire Traction, pinion angle, bushing material, etc., are all pieces that can change how it behaves.

It's difficult to look at one Fox vs. another and say, "This is the sole item responsible for curing wheel hop in a 4-link.". Mostly, because just about every Fox modder has something different going on in there.
 
It's difficult to look at one Fox vs. another and say, "This is the sole item responsible for curing wheel hop in a 4-link.". Mostly, because just about every Fox modder has something different going on in there.

I think that's close, but from what i see we don't know the sole item responsible for causing it, but i'm not sure we have too many complaints of wheel hop with the quads in place. Which i'll assume is why they are on there, because they are the cure.
 
IMO they are a bandaid plain and simple. I get it and it’s as simple as Ford wanted everyone to buy a Mustang so compromises were made with the soft suspension, effortless steering, and easy clutch. We made them feared at about every race venue possible. To this day when I drive my car I get nods and cars that I know would beat it want nothing to do with it. I swear its because it’s a Foxbody and the reputation is just enough to make them weary.
 
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For a different angle, I called and talked to Maximum Motorsports back when I was putting together my suspension. The topic of control arm bushing came up. My question was "why would a harder material like Derlin or spherical bushings make such a big difference on NVH. I could see more vibrations and road buzz coming through, but why would derlin or spherical bushings make the ride more harsh and bang over bumps? Isn't the suspension going to soak up the bumps and potholes regardless? The bushings are just there to let things rotate."

His answer was interesting. He said when the tire hits a bump it actually travels rearward on first impact then up and down. Rubber and poly (to a lesser degree) absorb that rearward jab while hard bushing like derlin or aluminum transmit the full jab to the chassis. That's why you feel the bang when you hit a bunp with extemely hard bushings.

This got me thinking of the quad shocks. Having a shock that absorb the rearward jabs when hitting a bump probably isn't a bad thing. I bet they smooth out the ride a bit too, though the primary is to keep wheel hop down.
 
But back to the the op's question. Should quad shocks should fully rebound when compressed because his don't. Mine do, others say they don't.

-Bilstien HD quads do rebound to fully extended and need to be compressed a few inches to install.

If you have a brand or model and know if they rebound to fully extended add it to the list for the op.
 
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