question about engine

91drag

New Member
Feb 13, 2006
32
0
0
Ok here is the deal. I found a 302 bored .030 with windsor sr. 200cc heads 2.02 1.60 valves with harland sharp rr's, milodon oil pump, lunati cam .555 lift not sure of dur. @.050,lifters,dual valve springs. march septine pulleys, keith black butterfly cut pistons, aftermarket crank, h rods. engine has less then 500 miles on it the guy wants 1400 for it. I dont think its a bad deal but what type of hp could i expect i will be adding a parker intake, hei, 650 holley dp hp carb and what stall do i need. do they make a stall for the green dot c-4 or would i be better off getting another c-4.
 
Sounds too good to be true. You sure he's on the level? The parts are worth more than the asking price. Put a Parker Funnel Web on it, and the power won't come on till 3500+. With a stock stall and gears, it'll be a dog to drive on the street or the strip. You'll need a stall and something like 3.70's at a minimum to get the car to move.
 
i have a set of 3.80 gears for the nine inch i installed i have 3.25 in right now. do they make a stall for the green dot trans. would my street dominator intake be better for some street driving. i have a comp cams 270h cam i could put in. but dont know how well would work with the combo all setup. i looked at the motor everything looked good. what rpms would the car cruise at with the 275 -50- 15 and the auto and 3.80 gears around 65-70 mph.
 
My Ranger with 28" tires, 3.73's and a Toploader 4 speed turns 2687 at 60. Yours would be higher with 3.80's and 25.5" tires. The cam difference likely isn't all that great, a dual plane intake would be a better way to lower the powerband.
 
i probley need to keep my 3.25 gears to keep rpms down. what would be a good intake to use on the engine as far as a dual plane. are the professial products air gap type any good or would elderbrock be better or another brand.
 
i'd use a weiand stealth or a edelbrock F-4B or the ford racing A-321 intake, personally i'd go with the A-321

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=529

the 3.25 gears will be good with this intake, i'd also use the comp 270 cam unless you can get all the specs on the other one, the 270h is at least a know commodity and a decent street/mild strip cam, you can even use your stock convertor. i'm not sure if anyone makes a stall for the green dot c4 or not, you'll just have to check with some of the convertor manufacturers.

the above should be a decent engine and a good driver as well.
 
do you have the @.050 duration numbers? advertised duration numbers can be a bit misleading. for instance the cam i have in my car has 290/300 adv duration but .050 numbers are pretty tame at 214/224 and the lift is .472/.496 with either a 112 or 115 LCA can't remember which, i think it's 112. so even though the adv duration is pretty high the .050 duration is pretty tame and with the high LCA it idles pretty smoothly. i would suspect that the cam you posted will have a really nasty idle. you'll likely need a realy high stall as well. speed pro claims that my cam will work with the stock converter but it really pulls the engine down idling in gear with the stock converter, it really needs at least a 2200-2400 stall. i have a smaller cam that i may swap in later once the car is actually on the road and i can get a better idea how this one will work but i suspect i'll be using the smaller one.
 
230 intake
240 exhaust

the cam i got has these specs
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 270
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 270 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 int./0.500 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
 
well they aren't too far off in duration it would seem, but that is actually a pretty big difference. it's not a bad cam by any means but with a stock converter and a 3.25 gear it won't be much fun on the street. i'd say at least a 3.70 gear and a 3000 stall with that cam. BTW i forgot to mention that my car also has a 3.25 gear with the stock converter as well.
 
thanks guys im getting the engine this weekend and swapping the cam and getting an intake when i can get some more money but for now im going with my street domianator. by swapping cams i should be able to idle better and be more street friendly right thanks again
 
Update

Went to pick up engine and guy backs out said he is going to use it. So here is what im buildind now and need your input.

building a 331 with a comp 270h cam listed above, i got the ford intake you guys recommened, gear drive, 650 hp dp, 190cc 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust 60 cc combustion chambers aluminum heads, hei, 65000 volt coil, accel 8.8 wires,accel plugs, hedmen shory hedders, 2.5 in flowmaster exhaust dumped at rear. c-4 stock converter, 3.25 9 inch rear.

this combo should be more street friendly i think? is there any thing i should change? what type of hp should i have?
 
Well for one, I'd skip the gear drive, A. you don't need it, B. it transfers harmonics from the valve train to the crank. C. A good double row, roller chain works just as good and cost's $20 (Cloyes True Roller-O'Reilly's auto parts), The money saved can be better used elsewhere. You'll probably need to beef up that C-4 before long with the 331's extra power.. Hope you bought name brand lifters with the cam. Lots of failures lately, most are due to cheap lifters. Also remember to remove the inner springs before firing the engine for cam break-in. Ought to be a good strong combo, I know my 331 is.
 
i got the comp lifters with the cam also i have a comp double roller timing chain, what kind of upgrades do i need for the c-4, it has been built with shift kit, or do i need a little stall
 
i got my 302 tore down glad going 331 as i will need a crank. my new quesition is with the bore gauge it reads 4.052 up and down and 4.00 side to side. so i should be able to bore .040 to clean it up if my thinking is right. half of .052 is .026 so .030 should be close. but .040 should clears it all. or do i need to find a different block.