Question about motor mounts going bad

FastGT94

Member
Nov 20, 2003
300
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16
NW Burbs, IL
I was in the middle of my longtube header install and realized that I can't get the header to line up with the holes in the head.

One reason is that the flange is hitting the floor, the other reason is that the header is rubbing up on the AC line. I've been told that the BBK headers should clear everything fine time and time again, so I'm thinking that after 110,000 miles, the motor mounts are bad.

Is this an accurate assumption that the mounts have gone bad and the engine sitting too low is the problem?

I don't know a good or bad one by looking at them so I have no idea if they are bad or not. I'm guessing here, so any advice is gladly taken.

Thanks!
 
Yep, just had the same problem. Drivers side flange hit the floor, couldn't bolt to the head. Got looking, engine was sitting crooked, higher on the drivers side. I replaced the motor motors and they fit great. The passenger side mount was pretty much squished. They're easy to change and now would be the time to do the. Also the insulated AC line running along the passenger side strut tower did lay right along the tube. You can move the line up enough easily to clear it though.
 
I had to install new motor mount on mine when I replaced my clutch and one really strong launch and I ripped both mounts they were really old. I used the prothane motor and tranny mount( that went south as well) and they raised the motor half an inch than stock would. Bad part is their is a vibration through my car because of the poly urathan material doesn't like to flex like rubber did. but if you can live will a vibration than go for it they are really stount mounts that will last a really long time. I just found out today that the ac line along side the strut tower is hitting the header and has almost melted the tube all the way through so be carefull if you put aftermarket poly mounts in.
 
Well I can deal with the AC later :bang: as long as the mounts will get the headers installed. I gotta get this thing started!!!!

I found the 3 piece at summit from Energy Suspension for $149. Should get here in the next 3 days.


To jack the engine up should I just use some 2x4's and the oil pan or do I need to get a hoist. If you could give me some details as to how to lift the engine I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!
 
I jacked mine up from the front oil pan. You will have to jack the motor up higher when you try to install the new mounts. The passenger was the easiest the driver was some what of a pain. Install the tranny mount first and just start the bolt don't tighten till the end that way it lets the drive train move up and down more freely. I was able to take the cross member out with out dropping the H but it would make life easier if you did. I also started the passenger side and left it somewhat loose so when I jacked the motor up more it would tilt to the left so it gave my more room to install the driver side mount. Thats pretty much all you will have to do its not hard really.

P.S Don't Forget to go back and tighten the tranny mount at the end :D
 
FastGT94 said:
Well I can deal with the AC later :bang: as long as the mounts will get the headers installed. I gotta get this thing started!!!!

I found the 3 piece at summit from Energy Suspension for $149. Should get here in the next 3 days.

To jack the engine up should I just use some 2x4's and the oil pan or do I need to get a hoist. If you could give me some details as to how to lift the engine I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!
the guy who installed the equal length shorty headers on mine (before i bought it) left the ac line too close and it melted. a new line is $65, then there is the freon, and the pain in the but dealing with it all. i strongly recommend taking care of with it before it melts or you are going to end up wasting time and money.