Question about stroking a supercharged 46

600 RWHP!! Nice.

What do you think this setup will make (what I have currently):

Forged shortblock with 17cc dish pistons
stage 3 patriot heads
comp 270's (NA cams, hope it doesn't affect boost)
75mm TB and c&l plenum
bbk longtubes
s-trim with a 3.18 pulley - 6 rib
huge paxton 3 core intercooler
anderson power pipe
lightning MAF
vortech race BOV
ford gt pump with boost a pump
boost a spark
42# injectors
tuned

???/???

low 500's? But I don't think lightning MAF can support it. Plus you be maxing out the 42's. Stage 3 heads? Is the shortblock bored?


And in the future I would be upgrading to:

convert s trim to t trim
60# injectors
reichard racing manifold (oval setup)
twin 62mm throttle body
110mm MAF
03 cobra tank with dual ford gt pumps
smaller pulley with 8 rib? crank pulley maybe? 8 inch?

???/???


What do you think jivepepper?

Around 650-700 depending on the psi and what type of fuel you run. You might also want to upgrade the fuel lines etc. If I had to do it again, I would have probably have went return style setup

I also see that you modded your BAP and FPDM. Are those mods necessary do you think?

I didn't mod the BAP. But I did a wiring upgrade going to it. The FPDM is modified zone 5/mjchip.

The modified FPDM is good idea once you starting using anything bigger than 2 stock cobra pumps, and it frees up some duty cycle. So does the wire upgrade.

I think I have one of my cobra pumps failing and was trying to get all they fuel I could. I hope once I install the aviator fuel pumps I'll have more than enough.
 
See thats where im confused. How are you making 598 and you think I'll only be making low 500's? Is there a compression difference or what? And my block is .20 over? Are you stroked to a 302 or what? lol
 
See thats where im confused. How are you making 598 and you think I'll only be making low 500's? Is there a compression difference or what? And my block is .20 over? Are you stroked to a 302 or what? lol

Nope stock bore and stroke.

1 You're only running a 3.12" 6 rib pulley and stock crank pulley
2 Your 42's won't support much more than that before you lean out
3 The lightning MAf well peg aroung 450-500
4 Plus Your GT pump/BAP set up will probably suck the stock GT bucket dry.
5 I have cams designed for blower cars
6 I have an 8 rib set up
7 I have an 18% over drive pulley. The biggest you can get
8 I have an electric water pump
9 If you go to a much smaller SC pulley with an 6 rib setup it will start loosing boost because of belt slip.

It's all about boost and the right mods to support it Fuel/MAF/Tune

Yes I wanted to know if your block is bored 20 over. Because patriot advises not to use there stage 3 heads with a stock bore, and they barley flow more than the stage 2. That's why the only cost a hundred more
 
What size pulley do you have on the head unit and where can I come by one of those crank pullies? Was it a ton of money to convert to an 8 rib?

I run a 3.0 SC pulley But with a the overdrive crank pulley it actually spins it harder than 2.75 would.

$490 For an 8 rib conversion kit
I got a 2.75" with my 8 rib set up from from vortech tech. I sold it because I thought it was to small. and would be to much for the S-trim since I had the over drive crank pulley. It comes with a 3.3 but you can substitute. They're 540 on vortechs site now, But summit or superchargersonline have it for 490 now but you need to call vortech for the right part number.

$425 For the overdrive crank.
Innovators west has the pulley. I sold the one in the kit and my 6 rib RR Pulley I had and made back 160.

Plus you need a electric water pump to use the 18% overdrive pulley because it will rub the stock wp pulley.(Another 300 bucks). Then you also got to grind the timing cover and maybe relocate the oil return for the SC. I was able to grease and bend the line enough to clear. They also have a 10% Pulley That you can use with the stock wp and not have to worry about the oil return. But you would probably have to go to at least a 2.9 to make up the difference.

So your looking at about 900 for the parts before. Then your fuel set up and maf which will be about another grand. Then you should be around 600. I have a V1 which takes a slightly smaller pulley to make boost compared to a V2 That's because the v2 has a steeper internal step up. and is slightly more efficient.

I would plan on spending at least about 2K. If you go to a 2.75" pulley you might get enough boost without buying the over driver crank pulley. But it also might want to slip even with the 8 rib. That would save you some money. It took me 8 years to build mine because I feel putting card parts on credit cards is a bad Idea. I know guys who got so far in debt that they ended up selling their cars shortly after getting them done.
 
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In response to your comment about me maxing out the stock can, I was told to drop the tank and drill holes all througout the can to aleviate this problem.


Also regarding the cams, will my NA comp 270 cams actually hurt my setup more than help? I was told that NA cams have more overlap with can let boost leak out under high load. I just like the cams because they lope pretty good and I don't wanna give that up :P
 
In response to your comment about me maxing out the stock can, I was told to drop the tank and drill holes all througout the can to aleviate this problem.


Also regarding the cams, will my NA comp 270 cams actually hurt my setup more than help? I was told that NA cams have more overlap with can let boost leak out under high load. I just like the cams because they lope pretty good and I don't wanna give that up :P

Yeah you can drill and it will fill when there's lots of gas and also empty out fast too when the gas is low. Especially around the turns. I would only drill in the front maybe?

I'm not able tell you about the cam but I have also heard the same thing.
 
I'll have to do more research on the can. But as far as the other advice, thanks alot man. I had never considered doing a lower pulley as most of my centrifical buddies have never talked about that, I only hear that from the guys with ported eatons. From everything you have said I will definately be getting a 10% bigger lower, now the question is what size upper will I be able to get away with while having a 6 rib. I think I'll leave the upper at 3.12 until I convert to 8rib, then I'll go to a 2.90.

Again, thanks alot for your input!!
 
I'll have to do more research on the can. But as far as the other advice, thanks alot man. I had never considered doing a lower pulley as most of my centrifical buddies have never talked about that, I only hear that from the guys with ported eatons. From everything you have said I will definately be getting a 10% bigger lower, now the question is what size upper will I be able to get away with while having a 6 rib. I think I'll leave the upper at 3.12 until I convert to 8rib, then I'll go to a 2.90.

Again, thanks alot for your input!!

I ran a 3.33 or 3.12 can't remember and was getting belt slip.

One thing I will say is don't cheap out on things like your fuel system. Saving a couple $100 to only end up hurting your motor by going lean isn't worth it. Get the Cobra Tank and pumps and be done with it.
 
Did you mean you CANT run an overdrive lower with a 6 rib upper?


The ovrdr pulley is 8 rib but you can run it with the 6 rib pulleys. You just won't use the outside ribs.If you only want a 10% ATI also makes one but if you want the 18% only innovators west makes one and of course the also have an 10% pulley. I hear that the ATI might grip a little better.