Question about wheel bearings/worn suspension components

H

Hawaii-50

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Oct 24, 2003

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Wesley Chapel, FL

Nov 11, 2004

#1

• Nov 11, 2004

• #1

I've replaced both of my rear axle bearings and there is probably 1/8" of movement when I pull the axles outward after everything has been reinstalled. Not a whole lot, but I can definitely feel it slide out a hair and hear a slight "clunk". On my front wheels, when I grab the 6 and 12 o'clock positions alternately there is about the same amount of play. None at the 3 and 9 positions. Is this normal or does something else need to be replaced?

Thanks-
Ted

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

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Stafford,VA

Nov 11, 2004

#2

• Nov 11, 2004

• #2

no supose to be any play.............i would pull the bearings out and check the insides and re-pack the bearings............

 

J

JB66

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Aug 21, 2004

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New York

Nov 11, 2004

#3

• Nov 11, 2004

• #3

Did you install NEW 'C' clips (axle retaining clps) when you replaced the bearings?

Have someone look behind the wheel as you're moving it to see if it's the rotor or suspension that's moving.

 

Mavrick

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Aug 29, 2002

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Collingwood, ON

Nov 11, 2004

#4

• Nov 11, 2004

• #4

I've played with 3 diff's and they all had a little axle play, in and out (pushing and pulling). I wouldn't worry about it.

My new rear doesn't have this play as it's packed extra tight

For the front.. movement at 12 and 6 sometimes points to bad ball joints. Check the dust boot for cracks.. if its cracked, then the ball joint is likely full of dirt and bad.

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

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NJ

Nov 11, 2004

#5

• Nov 11, 2004

• #5

I wouldn't worry about the back, it's that way on most rears with c-clip.

As mavrick said, front is probably the ball joints, are they squeeking?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Nov 12, 2004

#6

• Nov 12, 2004

• #6

to clarify, there is only one balljoint on each front arm (no upper balljoint).

i agree with Mav and 2K. when you pull and push on it while lookin at the joint, sometimes you can actually see the joint move.

if you have any doubts about the balljoints, please replace them immediately. more than one guy has had the suspension collapse from a broken joint.

good luck.

 

OL' WHITEY

New Member

Jan 28, 2004

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Weddington, NC

Nov 12, 2004

#7

• Nov 12, 2004

• #7

Out back, play is normal. As someone posted earlier, you can rebuild your trac loc and put in extra clutches to tighten it up a little if you really want to. It is by no means necessary. As for the front, I can see a new set of ball joints in your future. Also, check the condition of your A-arm bushings (where the front suspension mounts to the frame) If they look really squished or loose, replace with poly.

 

2000xp8

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Aug 8, 2003

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NJ

Nov 12, 2004

#8

• Nov 12, 2004

• #8

If you are going to replace the balljoints and you car has over 100,000 miles, just replace the entire set of a-arms, i've seen the motosport ones (i think the same as 93's) for as low as $169 for the set, they come with new bushings installed along with new ball joints. May cost you a few more dollars (sometimes not much more) but you won't have to worry about pulling the old factory arms apart, which can take forever.

 

H

Hawaii-50

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Oct 24, 2003

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Wesley Chapel, FL

Nov 12, 2004

#9

• Nov 12, 2004

• #9

Thanks for the replies fellas. Will I need an alignment after replacing the ball joints?

Ted

 

J

JB66

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Aug 21, 2004

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New York

Nov 12, 2004

#10

• Nov 12, 2004

• #10

That would be a yes.

 

OL' WHITEY

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Jan 28, 2004

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Weddington, NC

Nov 12, 2004

#11

• Nov 12, 2004

• #11

Uh, no. I just did ball joints last week and no alignment was needed. I think if I were you, I'd just do the ball joints and play it by ear on the alignment. It's not mandatory, but it wouldn't hurt anything except the pocket book! The ball joints cost me $60 something at AutoZone and I rented the ball joint press tool. I highly recommend using this tool. It beats doing it with a hammer for sure.

 

Mavrick

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Collingwood, ON

Nov 12, 2004

#12

• Nov 12, 2004

• #12

I bought the tool on sale for under $100, wasn't too bad. All in all, less than $150 for me to do ball joints... sure beats shop prices i bet, and i have a new TOOL!

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Nov 12, 2004

#13

• Nov 12, 2004

• #13

if new arms are that cheap (with new bushings), that is a route i might consider (if the LCA bushings look bad). figure 40-50 bucks for bushings, 50-100 for balljoints and possible labor for pressing/burning the old LCA bushings out......not bad at all. had i known that when i went to poly (and new balljoints), i would have gone that route.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Nov 12, 2004

#14

• Nov 12, 2004

• #14

oh yeah, those presses are sweet, arent they (the one with the large C-clamp and some bushings)....i got me one too. might use it on U joints in the future too.

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

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NJ

Nov 12, 2004

#15

• Nov 12, 2004

• #15

HISSIN50 said:

if new arms are that cheap (with new bushings), that is a route i might consider (if the LCA bushings look bad). figure 40-50 bucks for bushings, 50-100 for balljoints and possible labor for pressing/burning the old LCA bushings out......not bad at all. had i known that when i went to poly (and new balljoints), i would have gone that route.

Click to expand...

I actually paid $179 for the pair of arms at my local ford motorsport dealer, then i saw them a month later for $20 less in a catalog (can't remember which one it was years ago). A nice clean fresh set of arms IMO is better than an old beat up arm with new bushings and balljoints. You also don't have to worry about doing a crappy job taking them apart and putting them together because they are assembled. The new set also came with better ball joints (supposidly), with clear dust and grease covers.

 

8

87'GTstang

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Feb 16, 2004

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Nov 12, 2004

#16

• Nov 12, 2004

• #16

If it were wheel bearings then you would feel play at both the 6 adn 12, and 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Due to the design of the suspension, it has to be the lower ball joint that is worn out. If in fact you are not exagerating the 1/8" of movement, there is no way it would be your coontrol arm bushings. If they moved that much then i'de check to see if the bushings are even there any longer. Nonetheless, all this stuff likes to go out aroun 100,000 miles. Usually (in order), inner tie rods, wheel bearings, outer tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings is about the main order i've seen parts go out on these cars. So yes, your best bet is to knock 3 things out at once with the new LCA assembly (front and rear bushings and ball joint). Good luck

*edit: Yes, an alignment is an excellent idea as new ball joints can knock it out of whack. Those that think they can get away with it, tell it to your tires 5-10,000 miles later.