question for those who have replaced/re-skinned 1/4 panels(with pics)

The 1/4 skin I'm replacing on my fastback extends from the body line in about 2", so it would replace that bad spot. Not sure about the bottom you are talking about, but I found out the hard way that the skin does not fold under at the bottom of the trunk filler to include the mounting hole for the rear valence. I'm still trying to figure out how to obtain / manufacture one. Have been told that the full quarter does have it.

is there all filler in there?

I did the whole skin on my 65 coupe. It came in on top about 1 in so. I couldn't tell you which would be the better 1/4 panel replacement with the one that goes 1 in beyond the body line on top or the one that goes up the rear pillar. I think though that the one I used would be easier since you dont have to mess with the lead on the pillar.

I couldn't give you an exact time since it was my first time and I also had to replace my trunk floor and drop off on that side as well as my outer wheel well. Once i got all of the inside work done though it went pretty fast.

Ditto. The quarter is nothing compared to the inner wheel well and trunk drop off stuff i'm replacing. Quarter is almost ready to go on and i'm probably 20 hours in. First time delving this deep into body work, so i'm trying not to butcher it up.

ease: skin << full 1/4.

You're better off in the long run with a full quarter..... the style lines and general fit will be better and it is ctually easier, but takes a little more preparation removing the panel. The "Easier " part of the full quarter is that you utilize the factory spot weld locations to reattach it, rather than welding ( and warping) the middle of the crowned panel surface. My rule is that if there are more than two factory style lines altered or damaged, it's time for a full panel. My 66 was " pretty rust free" until I started doing work on it. the wheel house needed a patch, the trucnk floor was rotten at the bottom and there was rust in the front of the quarter that ZI would NEVER have seen if I hadnt had the complete quarter off. Here's acouple of tips..... Leave the trunk lid and door ON the car... these are your reference points to set your new panel to. Cut the spot welds around the tail light bucket on the new quarter and remove it. Leave it in place on the OEtail light [panel... it seldom rusts.... the door jamb on the front of the new quarter should come off by drilling the spot welds as well... keep the original latch pillar in place for reference so that you're not stabbing blindly for fittment... will give you a good reference point and make your multiple test fits easier.

Dont be intimmidated with full panel replacement.... just have a spot weld cutter and a panel separation knife and peel that sucker away!

Good luck, let me know if I can help.

KT.

THere are several different spot weld "cutters" THere are special drill bits that are disposable-get dull, pitch, use another one. THe 3M cutters are popular. Ge the double sided ones and LOTS of extra bits. THe expensive way is the Blair Rotobroach cutter kit which is what I have, the cutter heads are still throw away, but they will C-U-T some metal. I take a center punch and whack each spot weld then cut it. Less skipping off. THe hardest thing to do was force myself to not run the drill fast. Heat wrecks the cutter. It will last a long time if you cut at medium speed.
Here is a link:
AES Industries 230 - 3/8" Carbon Spot Weld Cutter

THis one is the arbor & 3 3/8 cutters, I have the kit with all the sizes and keep spares:
Blair 11096 - Spotweld Cutter Set 3 3/8in. Cutters Arbor & Pil

ANd another link-this a from a Google search on SPot weld cutter-this shows all the diferent types:
Spotweld Cutters at ReStockIt.com

I very rarely use a panel knife. I think they are too destructive. If I'm not preserving the joint, I cut it out with a plazma cutter...

I like the panel separating knife because it forces me to take my time.... rather than using an impact cutter with a chisel bit, which is VERY destructive! IF I cant easily hammer the back edge of the separator knife and break the panels apart, I've either missed a spot weld ( which are placed random at best on older cars) or need to cut more of the skin off.... Either way, there's more than one correct method, and you're absolutely right in wanting to keep the cutter speed down. GOod tip on center punching the spot welds before drilling.... a skating bit is agravating.

That quarter will have about 30 or so spot welds, so get ready for some time consuming drilling. I still maintain that it's easier to replace the whole panel than to patch together a "skin" like in the photos.... either way, you'll open a window into your car and uncover some surprises, no doubt.

JMHO.

KT.