Question on a possbile blown headgasket

[90_Red_LX]

Hi, just a quick question on a blown headgasket. Recently missed a gear and hit the rev limiter pretty quick in stang, and just noticed slight white smoke coming of the exhaust. Hard to notice, but it's there. Could be because it rained today, but then again I noticed water dripping on the ball and socket joints on the exhaust. This was before I missed a gear though I believe. But I was wondering if you blow a head gasket, would it start small (ie like me, just a little smoke) with no loss in power, or idle quality? And work it's way to a bigger problem, like smoke just pouring out the back? Or would you know it as soon as ya popped one? Dunno, just a little worried. Thanks though!

 

[90_Red_LX]

You will know. I just went through two sets in the last 3 months from boost. It will billow white smoke and your car will overheat like a mofo. You will all have a nice mocha oil shake on the dipstick most of the times and ride quality will suck.

Thanks, was getting a little bit worried there. Last thing I needed was a blown headgasket lol. I couldn't talk my way out of that one, and I would have a very pissed off dad.

 

[94TURBO5 O]

You will know. I just went through two sets in the last 3 months from boost. It will billow white smoke and your car will overheat like a mofo. You will all have a nice mocha oil shake on the dipstick most of the times and ride quality will suck.

 

[88stangmangt]

pull some compression numbers to be sure....

 

[jrichker]

Do a cylinder balance test to see if they are all putting out good power...

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html