Question on drag suspension setups....

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member

Sep 28, 2003

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Indianapolis, IN

Oct 12, 2004

#1

• Oct 12, 2004

• #1

I was wondering what all you had to buy when getting the 70/30 or 90/10 i think those are the numbers, im just now figuring out what they mean so excuse my ignorance.

But do u just have to change the shocks/struts? Or springs too? If it is just the struts/shocks, then what if you put them on a car that was lowered 1.25"? Would they still perform well?


How bad is everyday driving with drag setups? I just think it looks killer and super intimidating when the front end jumps up high when u floor it. And its added bonus when it helps that 60' time.

Which brand do you guys usually go with? How much and where do u get them from?

Thanks

 

Joes95GT

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Jan 23, 2003

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Delaware

Oct 12, 2004

#2

• Oct 12, 2004

• #2

I think the only company that makes a true 70/30 and 90/10 is Lakewood. They are a very good name to go by, too.

The lowered car and loose shocks would probably make for one hell of an awful ride. I'd look into changing the springs to the stock springs or to 4-cylinder Fox body springs if the budget isn't really high.

Joe

 

nmcgrawj

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Sep 28, 2003

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Indianapolis, IN

Oct 12, 2004

#3

• Oct 12, 2004

• #3

what is the most popular setup? What other combos besides 70/30 and 90/10 is there?

Can someone explain the numbers 70/30 and 90/10. I think i know what they mean just not in a technical way. Something like its easier for them to expand and harder to compress thus giving the weight transfer to the back?

 

gcomfx.com

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Oct 12, 2004

#4

• Oct 12, 2004

• #4

Curious too... I need to either lower my car or set up for the track so I would have a reason for it looking like a 4x4.

 

Joes95GT

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Jan 23, 2003

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Delaware

Oct 12, 2004

#5

• Oct 12, 2004

• #5

70/30 and 90/10 are shock bound/rebound rates. The bigger the first number, the "looser" the strut/shock is, which makes it easier to pull the front end off the ground. With something like a 90/10, the car becomes very unstable in "street" form. Turning is sloppy and I'd imagine high speeds aren't too pleasant either.

The shocks will do nothing to compensate for ride height. They are ride quality-related.

Maybe it's just the way you are phrasing it, but it seems to me that you are thinking about putting a 90/10 on the front of the car and a 70/30 on the back? If that's the case, don't. With a 90/10 in the front and a 70/30 in the rear, and assuming the car would hook (which I doubt), the rear would unload so fast, you wouldn't know what to do. For as much rise you have in the front, you want the necessary amount of squat in the rear, which means you would want something like a 50/50 or adjustable in the rear.

Joe

 

nmcgrawj

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Sep 28, 2003

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Indianapolis, IN

Oct 12, 2004

#6

• Oct 12, 2004

• #6

nooo i didn't mean to assign anything to anywhere! lol i dont know enough to do that. Thats why im asking....

So with coil overs, can u still get that lift in front?

 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.

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Oct 12, 2004

#7

• Oct 12, 2004

• #7

COil overs are THE way to go. Get a set of 14" coils in the spring rate that matches your car (most go 175lb), a set of ADJUSTABLE shocks and struts, and you'll be well on your way. With coil overs however, caster camber plates become a must have (some will agrue with me that you don't have to have them) due to the increased load on them... all of the weight of the front of that car is now on the strut towers. Coil overs are especially nice because normally you'll loose a few lbs, and you can determine the ride height YOU want within reason. My dad just did a full tubular K member, strange adjustable struts, coil overs, tubular a arms, and caster camber plates... his car now pulls the wheels on launch! His 60's have dropped to LOW LOW 1.6's (like 1.60-1.61) and that is with all stock stuff still out back except for his CRAPPY factory five control arms which he has broken 3 times already. He got his setup from Jason at PA Racing. Jason is a TOP NOTCH guy to deal with and the parts look killer! http://www.paracing.com

 

9

96darkhorse

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Oct 13, 2004

#8

• Oct 13, 2004

• #8

hey killer..clear your pm box dude!! ive been sending you emails and no reply...i tried pm's but cant either

 

FastGT94

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Oct 13, 2004

#9

• Oct 13, 2004

• #9

If you go coil overs, can you then tune it for street driving as well to help the car handle turns better when not at the track? How much does a coil over setup usually run just out of curiosity?

 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.

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#10

• Oct 13, 2004

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Dale- the nice thing about coil-overs is that it is pretty easy to swap coil springs and they are relatively cheap. I've contemplated getting BOTH drag and street springs and changing them thoughout the year, its not hard. As for coil overs, figure about $200 for caster camber plates, $200 for a FRONT coil over kit, and about $230 for starnge adjustable struts. OR you can do a COMPLETE front end with caster camber plates, coil overs, struts, tubular K member, and tubular A arms for around $1200-$1300 from PA racing and this is TOP NOTCH STUFF. Here's a link... PA RACING COMPLETE FRONT END

Dark- you have mail...

 

FastGT94

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#11

• Oct 13, 2004

• #11

Thanks Paul, I'll look into that once I plant my money tree. (H/C/I and now a blown clutch made me chop the old one down). K member is more than likely a fairly big chore since you need to switch everything over to the new from the old right? That will have to be a winter project one year. but those coil overs are tempting. I'd have to add on another $150 for a strut tower brace too since mine is gone.

Also, are the strange struts adjustable drag struts or simply adjustable struts?

Thanks for the info. Who was threatening your "Car that set the bar" title?

 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.

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#12

• Oct 13, 2004

• #12

FastGT94 said:

Thanks Paul, I'll look into that once I plant my money tree. (H/C/I and now a blown clutch made me chop the old one down). K member is more than likely a fairly big chore since you need to switch everything over to the new from the old right? That will have to be a winter project one year. but those coil overs are tempting. I'd have to add on another $150 for a strut tower brace too since mine is gone.

Also, are the strange struts adjustable drag struts or simply adjustable struts?

Thanks for the info. Who was threatening your "Car that set the bar" title?

Click to expand...

If you need a new clutch, I HIGHLY recommend calling Walt at Pro Motion. The clutch I have now it freaking KILLER... it doesn't slip, and its very streetable.

As for who was threatening my title... no one really, its just now EVERYONE has something about "the bar" their signatures, and I wanted people to know I'm the "original"... ya baby!

 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.

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Altoona, PA

Oct 13, 2004

#13

• Oct 13, 2004

• #13

Ooops... the starnge struts are not strictly drag, they are adjustable from a drag type to a road race setup. Tokico also makes a VERY nice adjustable shock, but they are more $ than the strange.

 

FastGT94

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Oct 13, 2004

#14

• Oct 13, 2004

• #14

lol

I actually already picked up a Spec II since I didn't hear one bad thing about them. I'm hoping to have everything back together by sunday so I can enjoy the last few weeks of "decent" weather here before I put it away. My car has been down so often this year that I've only put 1,500 miles on it Eh, that's racin for ya.