Engine Question on engine harness connectors.

Gs1987GT

Active Member
Sep 25, 2019
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Hello Gents, Good Afternoon,

I apologize up front for this amateur question, but it's been over 20 yrs and I just forget.

What is the best method to release the two ears on both sides of the engine harness connectors, such as the one for the Throttle Position sensor and the fuel injectors, etc, without breaking one side off??

I tried my best today, was, very careful and still broke one side off of a few of them today, which really bothers me.:(:notnice:

I pulled the upper intake today to change the fuel pressure regulator and valve cover gaskets. While I was in there and the upper intake was off, I looked at the rear of the lower intake and the rear is leaking oil pretty good, so I am in the proccess of pulling it to replace the intake gaskets. There is a chance my rear main crank seal is not leaking and it's all running down from above, so I'll get the intake replaced and then monitor it.

When I pulled all the plugs out so I could spin the engine by hand to set #1 at TDC, shockingly the plugs say motorcraft on them and they are worn very hard (gapped out to .095! Double the spec of .054. The center electrode has some noticable wear also. I think they are the originals. I honestly can't believe the car ran as good as it did with those in there. The wires were replaced so I dont understand why someone wouldn't do the plugs? Very strange.

It looks like it's running a bit rich, but I am not suprised with their condition and I suspect the FPR is on it's way out and is responsible for my hot start issue, which is why I purchased a motorcraft one to replace it. The speed density cars always did run a bit rich back in the day anyway.

I haven't touched any of the injector connectors yet, so if there is a special
Tool to remove them (and those double ear/ double sided connectors in general) or y'all have any tips I'd sincerely appreciate it. I can't see how your supposed to be able to release both sides at the same time and pull them apart with two hands, But its probably something simple I'm missing or forget from 20+ yrs ago.

I assume the fuel rail and injectors need pulled also, correct? Any suggestions on that would also be appreciated. I believe the injectors just pull out of the lower intake after the fuel rail bolts are removed, correct ? Probably will need new O rings?

Being this deep into it....The temptation is there to do H,C I now and convert to mass air now......but I believe I will keep it stock for the time being.

Thanks again for your help.

Sincerely,
Greg
 
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Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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Problem is,the plastic is 30+ yrs old now,so things have become brittle. I use the thin "eyeglass" style screwdrivers. I gently pry on one side,then pull on the connector and that side will usually pop free. Then,while keeping upward pressure on the connector so it doesn't pop back into place,do the same for the other side. Usually as soon as you start to pry it'll pop right off if you've kept pressure on the free side. Hope this helps.
 
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Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
15 Year Member
Apr 14, 2003
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As far as the injector plugs go, I've never had to do anything but pull them straight off.
I can relate on other plugs that have both sides snapped in. I've broken some too.
 
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Gs1987GT

Active Member
Sep 25, 2019
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Thanks guys, much appreciated. I read online when doing research that using a 90 degree pick worked. I tried that and it did help a lot, got all the injector plugs off. One side of one broke, but it was just it's time as I was extremely careful with them.

Not sure if I have to pull the black leather core hard lines off the lower intake or not yet to get at the lower intake to head bolts. Or if I'll have to pull the injectors/ fuel rail off or if I can just disconnect them at the connections at the front of the intake,

Ideally since I'm not changing the intake, just replacing the gaskets I'd like to leave the injectors in place, so we'll see. I'll soon be to that point.

Its supposed to be 100 degrees here today so I don't believe I'll be doing any shop work.

Have a good day Gents.

Thanks
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
May 15, 2018
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If the tabs break, they break. I’ve seen them both be broken and the injector connector still holds secure. The 90* pick is how I get them off though. You can leave the injectors in place when you pull the lower off, but removal of them just takes a minute or 2.

Leather core hard lines?
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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You need to check the O rings on those injectors anyway, unless they've been changed.
I know, I know, the old 'automotive snow ball effect'.
 
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Gs1987GT

Active Member
Sep 25, 2019
302
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MidAtlantic
If the tabs break, they break. I’ve seen them both be broken and the injector connector still holds secure. The 90* pick is how I get them off though. You can leave the injectors in place when you pull the lower off, but removal of them just takes a minute or 2.

Leather core hard lines?
Thanks much! Yeah stupid auto correct. I missed that when I read my post before I saved it to the forum and I'm not sure how to edit posts.

I meant black hard coolant lines on the lower intake .

Thanks
You need to check the O rings on those injectors anyway, unless they've been changed.
I know, I know, the old 'automotive snow ball effect'.
Yes sir, probably what should be done.. they have never been apart as far as I know. I'll have to see when I get to that point. Supposed to be near 100 tomorrow again so probably no shop work then either.

Like the dead of winter in reverse...lol.

Thanks