Question re: water passages and head gaskets

jaymac

New Member
Feb 18, 2004
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Northern Mass
So I pulled one head so far. Tell me if this is normal: The gasket only has the water passage holes cut out of one end of the gaskets, so the water passages on the other end are blocked off.... is this correct? Even my new gaskets (9333pt-1) have holes only on one end. My old ones were 8548pt-2.
I just want to make sure the new install goes smoothly...
thanks!
 
The heads are GT-40P's.
When you say one, do you mean one head, or one of the two holes in the back on each side....?
Yeah, let me just dip into my spare change pocket and fish out $1500 and order those bad boys up :D
 
jaymac said:
The heads are GT-40P's.
When you say one, do you mean one head, or one of the two holes in the back on each side....?
Yeah, let me just dip into my spare change pocket and fish out $1500 and order those bad boys up :D
Get some for me too! No i think one on each side, do you still have egr hooked up and coolant flowing to it, I believe this is the one they block. Someone stop me if i'm wrong. Geez i cant believe Hissin hasnt chimed in yet :shrug:
 
the open passages go to the back, if you put them in the front, you're car WILL overheat with violent ferocity...vesuvius will erupt from your radiator.

your new gaskets will have front stamped on the front side...follow this to avoid nuclear meltdown
 
that's my final answer....i can't speak for everyone else :D

but, speaking from experience, if you put the gaskets on backward, what i mentioned earlier will happen...bar none. steam pockets build up in the back of the block, and force their way through the t-stat when it finally does open, and the next thing you know, your neighbors yard is covered in antifreeze.

on the gasket, the side with no holes (or possibly one small hole) WILL be stamped "FRONT"...this side shall go the front, whether or not the "front" stamp is touching the head, or the block does not matter, as long as it's to the front.

make sure your mating surfaces are clean-i mean spic and span clean, then follow normal torqing procedures, and all will be well with the world
 
Update:

OK, so it's all buttoned up>
Before I took it apart, I drained the oil and put in new oil ( not too much coolant in the oil, though).Than after the swap, I ran the oil briefly, then drained it and put in new oil, then ran for 10 min and drained that, and put in new oil and filter.
There is still an infinitessimle (super-tiny) amount of "condensation" along thetop edge of the dipstick. It almost looks like leftover condensation from inside the dipstick tube. But there is absolutely no water bubbles in the oil itself on the dipstick.
It doesn't appear to be using water (which I will keep a religious eye on anyway!), and the temp is holding steady right above 180*. I am, however, going to replace the fan clutch today, as mine wobbles and might contribute to overheating.

1.) Should I change the oil again to try to get rid of any more possible oil? When?

2.) Do you think lack of a dyno tune for proper a/f ratio could've caused head gasket-blowing conditions?
Beacuse otherwise, it's a low-horsepower, non-boosted, newly-gasketed motor that blew a gasket on a mid-13 sec. pass.
Any way to get some insight as to how it happened so it doesn't happen again? Perhaps the "blow pattern" on the gasket might help diagnose??