QUESTION

DDSTANG94 · Feb 21, 2008

I got a vibration in my car, it almost feels like a slight miss....I got a new balancer, it took away my shake a 1000rpms but at this is still some vibration..My question is can a drive line vibration be rpm dependant (ie) like the DS...after my gears where installed it vibrates at high speeds soo i no i need a DS, but could that also cause a rpm dependent vibration...

also sometimes when im in like 5th gear at a lower rpm and its under a little more load u can slightly feels it under my seat vibrating

Zero_chance · Feb 21, 2008

Not to state the obvious but have you ruled out a misfire? Id run a cylinder balance test to take that out of the equation. I kinda have a similar problem. Car always had a rough idle since I bought it, saw the balancer was starting to come apart. Steadily got worst so I finally replaced it and low and behold theres still a little roughness at idle only. I ran the cylinder balance 3 times and passed each time, the MAF, plugs and wires were replaced when I bought the car, then I swapped those wires with Ford racing 9mm wires. SO needless to say Im still searching for the cause. Im tempted to run a compression test but at the same time Im not entirely sure I plan on keeping this motor so I dont worry too much about it because most people wouldnt even notice it.

DDSTANG94 · Feb 21, 2008

Zero_chance said:
Not to state the obvious but have you ruled out a misfire? Id run a cylinder balance test to take that out of the equation. I kinda have a similar problem. Car always had a rough idle since I bought it, saw the balancer was starting to come apart. Steadily got worst so I finally replaced it and low and behold theres still a little roughness at idle only. I ran the cylinder balance 3 times and passed each time, the MAF, plugs and wires were replaced when I bought the car, then I swapped those wires with Ford racing 9mm wires. SO needless to say Im still searching for the cause. Im tempted to run a compression test but at the same time Im not entirely sure I plan on keeping this motor so I dont worry too much about it because most people wouldnt even notice it.

I have no idea if its a misfire.....how do i do that test?

Zero_chance · Feb 21, 2008

If you have a scan tool you can enter the cylinder balance test after pulling KOER codes. Youd have to refer to the owners manual for the specifics but Im pretty sure you just have to go wide open for a second after the last of the codes. I use the Ford NGS so its a slightly different procedure. You may be able to enter the balance test after pulling codes with the paper clip method too, Ive just never used that method so I cant really confirm that.

DDSTANG94 · Feb 22, 2008

Zero_chance said:
If you have a scan tool you can enter the cylinder balance test after pulling KOER codes. Youd have to refer to the owners manual for the specifics but Im pretty sure you just have to go wide open for a second after the last of the codes. I use the Ford NGS so its a slightly different procedure. You may be able to enter the balance test after pulling codes with the paper clip method too, Ive just never used that method so I cant really confirm that.

kk thanks

gtcobra302 · Feb 22, 2008

It is rpm dependednt right? If you are doing 50 mph and you push in the clutch it goes away right? If you are sitting in your driveway in neutral and you rev to 3000 or 3500 it doesn't happen right? I had the same problem and it turned out the universal joints in the the drive shaft were bad.

mustang6tee8 · Feb 22, 2008

DDstang94- reading your post is EXACTLY the same thing that happened to my car (this seems to be happening to several people recently). check your driveshaft bolts (should be 70-95 ft lbs), and also check your u-joints. My u-joints "felt" fine, but they were about 500 miles away from causing me a LOT of agony. the needles in one of the cups had turned to dust, and another cap had broken. luckily, u-joints arent that expensive (around $16 for the better ones at any parts store) and you have to be careful when replacing them. i can write up a how-to if you need it. good luck

and yes, driveline vibration can be rpm dependent.

DDSTANG94 · Feb 22, 2008

K thanks too all that replied.....

I want to get a aluminum driveshaft but my driveshaft is rubbing th e brake cable now and i dont want ot tear up the new one.....

anyone have a solution to the ebrake rubbing problem??

gtcobra302 · Feb 22, 2008

Why is the cable rubbing? I had to bend the bracket under the car for the cable not to rub. I tried to reason with it by talking kindly to it but that didn't work so I stuck a big pry bar in there and persuaded it to go where I wanted. If you decide to replace your u joints in stead of a new drive shaft make sure you replace them with solid u joints, stock ones are hollow inside and have been known to break. I think for like $30 dollars you can fix your problem.

DDSTANG94 · Feb 23, 2008

gtcobra302 said:
Why is the cable rubbing? I had to bend the bracket under the car for the cable not to rub. I tried to reason with it by talking kindly to it but that didn't work so I stuck a big pry bar in there and persuaded it to go where I wanted. If you decide to replace your u joints in stead of a new drive shaft make sure you replace them with solid u joints, stock ones are hollow inside and have been known to break. I think for like $30 dollars you can fix your problem.

thanks

I dont know y it is rubbing??

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