questions for boost guys

stangjunky2327

New Member
Oct 25, 2008
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Just acquired a vortech v1 s trim from corral not to long ago. Got a couple of questions about it. Firxt off my car is a 89 lx with a 306, performer rpms and performer intake with a 65mm tb and 30lb injectors.

The kit came with a fmu but from what I understand the fmu is just a band aid. Would A chip be a better route? The car is not my daily driver but I do drive it quite a lot. The pulley setup is for 8-10 lbs of boost.

As far as fuel delivery I have a 255 pump and the bbk fpr and the 30lbers. Would I need to mount an inline pump and jump up to say 42lbs and maf or would the 30s be ok?

.And then theres the ignition. Right now its completely stock. I know I am going to have to run colder plugs Will the stock distributor be sufficient or am i going to have to step it up to a msd. I am also going to be swapping out the coil for a blaster more than likely.

The kit also came with a vortech boost master retard box. if I am going to run a chip am I going to need to plumb that in or no? Any help would be appreciated. sorry for the long post. Pretty new at the forced induction side of things,

Also would it be better to get a tweecer or moates and try tuning it myself or go have it dyno tuned? I know that the dyno tune would be better cause they know what their doing but if I do anything else to the car later on I will have to take it back later on to get it tuned again.

Oh and then someone mentioned to me that I might need to run a 2 bar map sensor is this true?
 
An fmu is used if you have stock injectors, so u dont need it. 30s imo are not enough you'll need at least 42lbers depending on how much boost u run. Your stock dizzy will be fine, 1 range colder is a good idea for plugs, i would recommend some sort of ignition box
 
I agree with Kdubslugga. For an ignition box, I plan to run one that has a boost retard function. I will be using a 2 bar map for that also. For plugs, as well as using colder plugs, I was advised to close the gap a little too. My buddy runs a .032 gap but, also he is running 23 psi. I plan to start at .040. As for tuning. I have the TWEECER RT & like it a lot. Im no expert at it but, I would rather learn how to tune than pay for a chip and someone to tune it for me. I dont know which years are MAF & which are speed density but, my 90 could peg the stock MAF as an N/A car so I upgraded to the 90 mm LMAF. A TWEECER RT can help ya tune for that also among other things. This is my first boosted project too so not an expert here.
 
ignition box, cold plugs, if you are going to keep the stock fuel system then run 42s. dont pulley it for a desired boost level. if you chip it you wont need the btm. pulley it down, use a wide band air fuel monitor and keep it around 11:1. if its fatter than that at its leanest you can step to the next pulley and check the a/f again. with heads and intake its going to move a decent amount of air no matter how low the boost is. id put an anderson powerpipe on it before messing with pullies. you need to invest in a wide band air/fuel monitor.

also, you dont need a whole bunch of timing. 20* total should be more than enough. keep the gap around .30 unless you like replacing coils.
 
thanks for the replies guys I do plan on getting 42s and the appropriate maf sensor. If I put a 6al on it do I need to go ahead and install the vortech btm that I have also? As far as tuning which is better the tweecer or the moates? And what about the 2 bar map sensor?
 
thanks for the replies guys I do plan on getting 42s and the appropriate maf sensor. If I put a 6al on it do I need to go ahead and install the vortech btm that I have also? As far as tuning which is better the tweecer or the moates? And what about the 2 bar map sensor?


BTW dont use a C&L meter for your 42s it will never work trust me! Go with a PMAS meter or if you really want to tune, go with an Abaco. The guys at Anderson Ford tuned my car and recommended an ignition box, I was already up there so I let them do it for me. They actually recommended MSDs new Street Fire box, its a ittle smaller and less expensive, around 130 i think, and has a lot of the same features as MSDs 6AL. I was already to have them install that one but they said I really didnt need that much of an ignition, I dunno there the experts...Im not sure what the 2 bar 3 bar crap stuff is, I also installed one of those before they tuned my car, i guess it was a must for proper tuning. I use Anderson Fords PMS, and would use no other from now on, its awesome, that said Ive heard a lot of guys very happy with there tweecer units as well!
 
yea I found a 6al2 here locally with a blaster 3 coil and an assortment of pills for 150 last night I was just mainly wondering about the distributor cause if that was the case I was just going to buy it new. I will look more into that 2 bar map sensor. I dont understand it. I was told its so the computer will be able to read boost under load or something like that.
 
yea I found a 6al2 here locally with a blaster 3 coil and an assortment of pills for 150 last night I was just mainly wondering about the distributor cause if that was the case I was just going to buy it new. I will look more into that 2 bar map sensor. I dont understand it. I was told its so the computer will be able to read boost under load or something like that.

Yeah well cant really beat that deal. Your stock distrubutor will be fine! I mean ive been running mine on my setup for 8 years, so no problems yet.
 
All right I found out the answer for the 2 bar map sensor. Its so the computer can read the amount of boost/vacuum in the manifold and is a must for boosted cars. So right now I am looking at getting 42lb ers with MAF a 2 bar map sensor , the 6al box with rev limiter, I already have a vortech btm. Then I need to get some sort of tuner. From what I have read its either the tweecer or the anderson PMS. How easy is that anderson pms?