Questions from gearhead that is new to Modular

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Blue1

New Member

Feb 2, 2004

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Feb 9, 2004

#1

• Feb 9, 2004

• #1

What type of coolant does Ford put in the '03 GT Mustang from the factory?

The manual says the differential lube is synthetic. Is the the lube in the 5 speed synth or dyno?

Can the traction control switch be easily modded to turn the traction control on instead of off so I don't have top hit the switch every time I start the car?

The ID tag on my pumpkin says 3L27 88 3827 and underneath that is 3229H.
I used to know the code Ford used, but lost the info. Can I safely assume this number indicates a 3.27 rear?

How many miles would you recommend before putting in synthetic motor oil?

Has anyone here installed full-length headers on an '03 GT? I definitely want to get headers on this thing.

Being a long-time 5.0 owner, I can't believe how few speed parts are offered for the 4.6.
Thanks for your help.

Blue1

 

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No Control

New Member

Jan 27, 2003

263

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San Diego, CA

Feb 9, 2004

#2

• Feb 9, 2004

• #2

-Gear lube and tranny lube should be of the dyno variety.
-There is a device that can "switch" the switch. Can't remember who makes it, but it's around 60 bucks.
-3L27 means 3.27:1
-Honestly recommend the Ford Oil, and get it changed at the dealer. The 20 extra dollars you spend by letting them do it, could save you hundreds down the road when warrenty issues arise, and you have aftermarket parts in there. It basically shows a history of maintenance.
-Headers are useless, unless you plan on forced induction. The flow rate of the intake/heads and exhaust are fine for N/A, and the cost versus HP increase is really not worth it, that is until you go forced...

 

mogs01gt

Founding Member

Jul 22, 2002

3,113

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119

Ohio

Feb 9, 2004

#3

• Feb 9, 2004

• #3

Im pretty sure they use the standard coolant, not the orange stuff GM uses.

I think its some type of syth from the factory but I put Redline into my at around 25k or later miles.

Some people have had the traction control switch to do that but I cant find the instructions that I thought I had.

header install instructions: It really isnt that bad. They just takes a while.
http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml

Only thing we dont have are intakes and heads for our cars. I wish we did.

 

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GinoGT

Founding Member

Aug 11, 2002

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36

Feb 9, 2004

#4

• Feb 9, 2004

• #4

Headers are useless??? Then why are they one of the best bolt-ons?

And the differential fluid is synthetic, 75W-140.

 

mogs01gt

Founding Member

Jul 22, 2002

3,113

30

119

Ohio

Feb 9, 2004

#5

• Feb 9, 2004

• #5

GinoGT said:

Headers are useless??? Then why are they one of the best bolt-ons?

And the differential fluid is synthetic, 75W-140.

Click to expand...

yeah I was wondering the same thing but didnt want to be the first to say anything.

 

1fastford

Founding Member

Oct 25, 2002

91

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va beach

Feb 9, 2004

#6

• Feb 9, 2004

• #6

You know, I'm glad someone brought that up, 'cause I heard that headers are useless too.

 

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GinoGT

Founding Member

Aug 11, 2002

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Feb 9, 2004

#7

• Feb 9, 2004

• #7

A swap from stock headers and midpipe to longtubes and an O/R X is an easy 20RWHP. Look around, there are plenty of dyno sheets and timeslips proving it.

 

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edwardohaskillo

New Member

Nov 24, 2003

120

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The Land of Milk and Honey

Feb 9, 2004

#8

• Feb 9, 2004

• #8

For the traction control switch there are two options.

1. There is a thread here somewhere that gives a schematic to bypass it yourself.

2. There is a thread that gives the website for a company that makes a box that you wire-in.

Use the search function and you shouldn't have too much problem finding it. In fact, They are probably on the same thread.

Considering the advanced metallurgy (sp?) and machining in today's cars, I wouldn't be afraid to use synthetics with your first oil change. I know I did.

Meaningful speed with an ohc v8 will be pricy compared to the ohv 5.0. And if you think about the architecture, it's sorta understandable. I plan on playing around a little with my 4.6. But for real power I'll probably get an old-school ohv.

I do love the lil' engines though, and predict in the next few years more and cheaper mods will be availible.

Welcome aboard!

 

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Blue1

New Member

Feb 2, 2004

23

0

0

Feb 9, 2004

#9

• Feb 9, 2004

• #9

No Control said:

-Gear lube and tranny lube should be of the dyno variety.
-There is a device that can "switch" the switch. Can't remember who makes it, but it's around 60 bucks.
-3L27 means 3.27:1
-Honestly recommend the Ford Oil, and get it changed at the dealer. The 20 extra dollars you spend by letting them do it, could save you hundreds down the road when warrenty issues arise, and you have aftermarket parts in there. It basically shows a history of maintenance.
-Headers are useless, unless you plan on forced induction. The flow rate of the intake/heads and exhaust are fine for N/A, and the cost versus HP increase is really not worth it, that is until you go forced...

Click to expand...

First of all, the owner's manual says the diff lube is synth. I'm just curious about the tranny lube.

Thanks for the tip about the switch; I'll do a search.

It would seem you're right about the ratio.

You let you're dealer change the oil? I wouldn't let any dealer touch anything I own even if THEY paid ME (unless they had me by the shorties with a warranty claim).

Headers have to be worth at least 15 - 20 hp. Look at the stock manifold....

Blue1