Quick Help With C/C Plate Install!

94GTLaserRC · Sep 29, 2005

Well, as it turns out, none of the 4 "possible" helpers was able to make it today, and since my Steeda's are promised out, I need to take a stab by myself at putting in the MM's

Question: ON the instructions link below, step 4 says to put load on the control arm. Step 15 says to repeat step 4 through 14 for the other side of the car. However, in steps 4-14, it NEVER mentions when to release the load on the first side. I only have one jack, so I dont know If I REALLY have to wait until one side is done to do the other.

Am I missing something?

RC

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMCC9994v4r4.pdf

4Jenna · Sep 29, 2005

Dude do one side at a time, then take the jack to the other side and start over

4Jenna · Sep 29, 2005

once u bolt everything back up..haha

94GTLaserRC · Sep 29, 2005

eades5.0 said:
Dude do one side at a time, then take the jack to the other side and start over

That's how "common sense" would dictate, but I was curious as to why the directions said that...Actually, if you read the directions, it NEVER really tells you when to release the tension from the jack.

Im assuming when the top Strut nut is on, that's when you can release it, true?

RC

4Jenna · Sep 29, 2005

wtf why are my post showing above yours?

94GTLaserRC · Sep 29, 2005

Cause Im a Gold Memeber Dude.. (delay in the posts sometimes)

Can I call you ?

4Jenna · Sep 29, 2005

juiced_94gt · Sep 29, 2005

94GTLaserRC said:
That's how "common sense" would dictate, but I was curious as to why the directions said that...Actually, if you read the directions, it NEVER really tells you when to release the tension from the jack.

Im assuming when the top Strut nut is on, that's when you can release it, true?

RC

release the tension once you take the top strut nut off then just let it down slow and you can pull down on the strut to get it out of the tower, dont worry about the spring, it's not coming out, you would have to try to make it come out.

94GTLaserRC · Sep 29, 2005

juiced_94gt said:
release the tension once you take the top strut nut off then just let it down slow and you can pull down on the strut to get it out of the tower, dont worry about the spring, it's not coming out, you would have to try to make it come out.

I found that out when I accidentally lowered the jack just beyond tenision. Nothing happened I was able to manipulate everything on and off by pressing down on the strut within the underside of the tower.

UPDATE: It's taken longer than it should, b/c Im painting the area under the plates...since the plates are slightly raised, you can see a bit under them...

While the paint dries, Im buffing out my PBR calipers, doing some other work, eating lunch, and watching J. Roberts get APPROVED for Chief Justice

Right now, Im letting the driver's side dry for about 30 minutes.

One other thing: can the relative height of the strut nut "just" be close to the previous height (using different spacers)? I tightened the first one down...it's about 1/8" lower than with the Steeda plates, but still a good 3-4 threads coming through.

Thanks
RC

CManT1914 · Sep 29, 2005

94GTLaserRC said:
One other thing: can the relative height of the strut nut "just" be close to the previous height (using different spacers)? I tightened the first one down...it's about 1/8" lower than with the Steeda plates, but still a good 3-4 threads coming through.

Thanks
RC

Not sure what you're asking, but I have about 1/2" of threads above the strut nuts on mine. This was with a spacer on them too. I don't know if that helps.

wytstang · Sep 29, 2005

Maybe this can help
http://www.corral.net/projects/subzero/mmccplates.html

juiced_94gt · Sep 29, 2005

just try to get it as high as possible without rubbing the hood (same amount of spacers on both sides) that way you have the most bump travel on your struts.

WhiteDevil · Sep 29, 2005

For mine i used one big spacer on the underside of the plate and the two small ones and one big one on top of the CC plate. I still seemed to have a good amount room left with the hood.

94GTLaserRC · Sep 29, 2005

Wystang....too late, however it is pretty much the same as the instructions I have so not a biggie...thanks for the help.

Juiced: I set a level over the fender with the bubble in the middle, then dropped a tape measure down to the top of the strut shaft. With the Steedas on, just over 3" distance from the top of the level to the top of the strut. With the MM's it's just UNDER 3", meaning the top of the strut is slightly higher.

The only prob was that I could NOT slide that dust cover over the bump stop. I had to cut to notches about 3 inches apart to open up the cover to slide it over.. I then took some electric tape, and wrapped it around tight before securring it with the tie wrap.

I will take it to for an alignment, but for now, I just placed a level against the rotor, and moved the plates around until the bubble was in the middle....I guess that's about as good as I can get it by eye.

Hope it doesnt fall apart on the way to the shop.

RC

juiced_94gt · Sep 29, 2005

94GTLaserRC said:
Wystang....too late, however it is pretty much the same as the instructions I have so not a biggie...thanks for the help.

The only prob was that I could NOT slide that dust cover over the bump stop. I had to cut to notches about 3 inches apart to open up the cover to slide it over.. I then took some electric tape, and wrapped it around tight before securring it with the tie wrap.

Hope it doesnt fall apart on the way to the shop.

RC

thats pretty much what you have to do, it will hold up

94GTLaserRC · Sep 29, 2005

WhiteDevil said:
For mine i used one big spacer on the underside of the plate and the two small ones and one big one on top of the CC plate. I still seemed to have a good amount room left with the hood.

WOW...I just used one 1/4" one under the bottom plate (right on top of the tower) and one 3/8" spacer under the top nut....THe Steeda plates had a 3/8 and a 1/4" one on top, but the plates sat flush down against the strut tower.

RC

BlackVert · Sep 29, 2005

juiced_94gt said:
release the tension once you take the top strut nut off then just let it down slow and you can pull down on the strut to get it out of the tower, dont worry about the spring, it's not coming out, you would have to try to make it come out.

it would be more likely to come out if it was a 2" lowering spring, wouldn't it?

this is good info, mine just came in today.

94GTLaserRC · Sep 29, 2005

BlackVert said:
it would be more likely to come out if it was a 2" lowering spring, wouldn't it?

this is good info, mine just came in today.

NOW, I can help you. (no..the springs are not that tight, like stockers)

BIG PROBLEM (well fixable)..I forgot the spacer on the bottom...Put everything back together, lowered the car, and BAM!!!...Strut shaft came right up through the tower I called MM for verification.

They recommend the larger spacer on the bottom, and the other 3 on top:
2 small, 1 large... the shaft is way high, but it still clears the hood. They said the higher the better so long as it clears....Just finished cleaning up...what a long a$$ day.

Ill put pics up in a different thread later.

RC

juiced_94gt · Sep 29, 2005

BlackVert said:
it would be more likely to come out if it was a 2" lowering spring, wouldn't it?

this is good info, mine just came in today.

yes, but it will fall out with no force whatsoever, and you will still need to help it a little bit but should pull right out(the spring if you are going to take it off)

Quick Help With C/C Plate Install!

94GTLaserRC

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