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  • Thread starter Thread starter suki243
  • Start date Start date Jan 16, 2007
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suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
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Southern California
Jan 16, 2007
#1
  • Jan 16, 2007
  • #1
Hey guys, today was one of the few days I was able to spend time on the stang. I was exploring around and I found this thing, What is it? It had a drop of greenish fluid on the bottom, when I touched it, it was really fluidy like grease or somethin.
View attachment 410549

The wiring is such a mess in the car!
There are switches and things that I have no idea about, there is the button and i'm afraid to push it, its under the steering column just dangling there.
There is a black box under the steering column.
There are pipes coming up for vents on the top of the dash but the heater nor the air conditioning work.
There is a little switch on the left of the steering wheel and when you pull it down A loud fan goes off in the front, I went to check it out and i found that it is a a/c fan i guess but the little radiator type looking thing is gone.
The battery is being held up by a bungee cord and is resting on a rusted peice of metal.
The engine block is soo dirty, paint is chipping off, the headers have black little dots on them, and eventualyl turn to orangish metalish color as they go under.
View attachment 410551
View attachment 410553

So my question is where can I go or what can I do in order to figure out what these many things do or how to fix them?
 

Pbum5

Member
Oct 27, 2004
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Minneapolis, MN
Jan 16, 2007
#2
  • Jan 16, 2007
  • #2
The first picture is of the black box that houses your heater core. The fluid is coolant. You have a leak, very common on our old stangs. It might be a loose hose connecting it or you heater core maybe cracked. If you in there it would be a good time to change out your heater core and hoses. Classic Mustang vendors sell kits that have all you need.



The under dash wiring looks like a mess. The stereo and gauges were spliced in.

The fan in front sounds like maybe an electric fan. Your car does not have an AC compressor or the vents under the dash so I don’t think you have AC.
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
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69
BC Canada
Jan 16, 2007
#3
  • Jan 16, 2007
  • #3
Like already mentioned the 1st pic is your heater box. Inside is the heater core, and you have a leak.


The "black box" strapped to your steering colum looks like it's a shock sensor for a car alarm.

Sounds like you may have bit off more than you can chew. I did the same thing...was either learn about how cars work and how to fix them or sell mine. I ended up learning (often the hard way). Good luck and try not to get too discouraged by all the work needed to keep these old cars on the road.
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Jan 16, 2007
#4
  • Jan 16, 2007
  • #4
Are you sure the sound you hear is a fan turning on and not the windshield washer pump (they are pretty loud)? I see your washer pump, but the resovoir is missing. I don't see an electric fan in the engine bay, unless the one behind the rad isn't attatched to the waterpump.

You have power brakes and power steering, plus the engine bay doesn't look that bad. Try to remove the junk wiring and the add-ons. A little tidying up will help you understand how things are supposed to work. Then install things like the stereo properly.
 
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suki243

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Dec 19, 2006
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Southern California
Jan 16, 2007
#5
  • Jan 16, 2007
  • #5
Thank you guys,
It is an electric fan, I'll take a picture of it tommorow, its in the front of radiator, and behind the grille.
I'm planning on taking out the current stereo and the original one that is installed in the dash and replacing it with those that look like the originals but have a small display and have a disc changer. (ebay has them for 300 and it includes the 10 disc changer)

I know what you mean, as i begin looking around the car I keep noting things that should be fixed. I know many mechanics as family friends and my personal friends, so hopefully I can call on them when I need help.

The gauge you see is spliced in it is an oil pressure gauge.

The guy before me also put in three 6x9s in the back each 250 watts, but he even did a poor job putting them in, the nuts fell off on two sides and now they're dangleing.

One of the main purposes why I bought this car over a new one was to learn about it, I knew it wasn't going to be perfect, but then again i didn't pick out the car before I bought it (my parents gave it to me as a surprise).

What is the easiest way going about slowly cleaning up the car? Do you suggest pulling out the dash or slowly figuring out which wire leads to where, and then tagging them and seeing wither or not they are needed etc...
I'm planning on doing one project at a time and sometimes even calling professional assistance. .

My parents keep telling me that I should enjoy the car for now, and when I have time (after finals and school) I can go ahead and do whatever I want to it.
Few things that are on the top of my list:
1. Get a speaker system Professionally installed
2. Fix the heater and I guess put in an A/c unit

Edit:
Is this the heating repair kit I would need?
http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchan...&Product_Code=08576&Category_Code=Heater_Kits
 
M

mustangchris

New Member
Jan 7, 2007
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san diego
Jan 16, 2007
#6
  • Jan 16, 2007
  • #6
That kit is a good one. If I were in your shoes i would take your parent's suggestion. Clean things up a little like take out that stereo and fix the leak but other then that i would focus on school. (I didnt because of a car and I know I could have done better) After its cleaned up and decently reliable I would save up money til your out of school and only take on one job at a time. Always keep in mind that you will find things on a vehicle with this kind of history that will need to be fixed and that will cost you more money and time then you originally estimated. A good rule of thumb when mapping your plans out is to add up the numbers and then double it. This way your not suprised about how much it costs, and if you have money left over you will be even more happy.
Fortunatly the mustang is a fairly simple car and very forgiving for learners. Try to do everything you can on your own, and when you need to call in professionals see if they can help and guide you instead of doing it for you.
Remember. Be patient, do what you can, and don't ever give up.
 
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suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
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19
Southern California
Jan 16, 2007
#7
  • Jan 16, 2007
  • #7
Thx mustangchris, I was planning those listed above, and then adding some cosmetic stuff like two red stripes, and perhaps new rims.
But are there books or something that tells you alot more about the car?

And the mechanic that I took it to said it was fine, it just needed a new carb because the choke would be stuck open, and hense an air that smelled like gas stayed in the garage, so he replaced it. He said its a solid car and doesn't need much. But, when I opened the hood and started it up, I noticed that the engine shakes alot. Is that normal for older cars?
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
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Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jan 17, 2007
#8
  • Jan 17, 2007
  • #8
suki243 said:
He said its a solid car and doesn't need much. But, when I opened the hood and started it up, I noticed that the engine shakes alot. Is that normal for older cars?
Click to expand...

No, it isn't. Your engine mounts could be worn out or the idle could be set too low. If it's a mostly stock engine, you'll want it to be between 600-700rpm.
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
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Southern California
Jan 17, 2007
#9
  • Jan 17, 2007
  • #9
I don't have a RPM gauge in the car I do have an oil pressure gauge would I be able to tell from there?
It has a new carb installed on it proffessionally.
I tried to take a video of it today but it was on a cell phone so it didn't come out so nicely, I'll try again tommorow with camera.
What are the consequences of haveing worn out motor mounts? Currently i'm in school but when Summer or spring break rolls around I am planning to pull out the engine, repaint the compartment, clean up wires, repaint the engine and i guess replace the mounts.

What I did notice today was that sometimes the exhaust spits out blackish water, and i guess cause today was cold it gave a white exhaust
View attachment 409997
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jan 17, 2007
#10
  • Jan 17, 2007
  • #10
suki243 said:
1.)
I don't have a RPM gauge in the car I do have an oil pressure gauge would I be able to tell from there?

2.) What are the consequences of haveing worn out motor mounts? Currently i'm in school but when Summer or spring break rolls around I am planning to pull out the engine, repaint the compartment, clean up wires, repaint the engine and i guess replace the mounts.

3.) What I did notice today was that sometimes the exhaust spits out blackish water, and i guess cause today was cold it gave a white exhaust
Click to expand...

1.) No, oil pressure cannot tell you RPM. You can get a little Sun Super Tach II from autozone for about $35-40. It's not great, but it does work and it's cheap. You can also use it without installing it. How, you ask? Just connect the black wire to the battery negative, the red wire to battery positive, and the green to the negative terminal on your coil. Heck, I have one adapted for go-karts that I run off a 9v battery!

2.) I don't want to cause alarm, but a broken motor mount can break on hard acceleration and the engine can or will smack the hood. Since you're not sure what the idle RPM is, you can't be sure the mounts are in bad shape.

3.) That water coming out the exhaust is normal on cool days.
 

Iamdiffrnt

Member
Nov 13, 2005
197
6
19
South of Detroit, MI
Jan 18, 2007
#11
  • Jan 18, 2007
  • #11
When I broke the motor mount in mine, i could feel the engine moving in the gas pedal. When in gear any time i touched the gas, the engine would act like i was pumping the accelerator, and i could feel the pedal moving under my foot.

If none of this sounds familiar, I would do like everyone else is suggesting.

 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Jan 18, 2007
#12
  • Jan 18, 2007
  • #12
It has a new carb installed on it proffessionally.
Click to expand...

What does that mean?

Nowadays, most "professionals" don't deal with carbs much!

Also a shop is just as likely to make a error as any home mechanic. It usually takes a while to find a place that is trustworthy.
 
O

outlaw66

New Member
Apr 1, 2005
124
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0
Flowood, Ms
Jan 18, 2007
#13
  • Jan 18, 2007
  • #13
suki,
if you provide a location, someone from the forum may be able to come by and give you some information and assistance. I agree with the former responses regarding just cleanup for now. The car will need a good bit of work to clean up the mess made by the previous owners. It may be worth the money to have a professional inspect some of the wiring to ensure you don;t have a fire hazard. It would be a shame to lose the car to fire because you did not spend a $100.00/$200.00 for someone to look over the wiring. I would bet a lot of the wiring goes nowhere and that there are exposed hot leads under the dash. These things need to be corrected so you can feel safe driving the car. Items like the speakers that are loose etc. can and should be removed by you asap if they don;t operate. They may become projectiles in the event of an accident and if wired incorrectly can definitely be a fire hazard.

outlaw66
 
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suki243

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Dec 19, 2006
662
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Southern California
Jan 18, 2007
#14
  • Jan 18, 2007
  • #14
What I mean by proffessionaly installed, means I didn't do it, it was a mechanic that my dad has known for 10+ years, he's the kind of guy that will replace it only if it needs to be replaced.

The pedal doesn't move under my foot, it is loose but stays still. The engine shakes fast side to side, I tried again to make a video but u can't even see it there.
I'll get my dad to take me to autozone later on today so I can get that temporary tachometer.

I'd like to get the wiring re done, where do you guys suggest?
I'm not going to be able to drive the car on the daily basis until next month, License

I'm planning to replace the speakers as soon as I get the tank armor. When i get the tank armor i'm planning on taking out the carpeting in the trunk, putting some sound dampener in the trunk, installing subs, getting it recarpeted, and replacing the speakers that are already in there. There are 2 that work and 1 that is just there for show i guess. Its not connected or anything, its the only one is fully mounted

The huge bundles of wires are taped together with electrical tape
The guy before was the owner since 1968 and i'm guessing he did the wiring himself.
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
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Southern California
Jan 18, 2007
#15
  • Jan 18, 2007
  • #15
I just installed the tach, and the engine is idleing at around 850 rpm.
 

dbfarr

Member
Sep 17, 2005
191
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17
Boise ID
Jan 18, 2007
#16
  • Jan 18, 2007
  • #16
Man, I bought my car two years ago and it still has no stereo. I had to focus on driveablility, heating and cooling issues, choaded suspension, bad timing chain, so on and so on.

A running car is one you can appreciate, a car that plays music but stalls at the stop light, leaks rancid radiator fluid all over your floor, and wanders all over the freeway is a car that sucks.

Make it go first. You live in So Cal, you can probably go without heat for a while. Bypass the heater.

What carb is on the car?

Start here with your idle problems.

Buy a good set of points, Napa is good. Ask for the higher grade. Install them. Pm me or ask if you need to know how.

With the car off, turn the air / fuel screws all the way in (located on the front of the carb) then back them out 1 1/2 turns.

Start the car

Back out the idle screw until it runs around 650 rpm (generally on the throttle linkage),

Turn one of the air/fuel screws in until the engine shakes, back it out 1/8 or so until it settles down. Match the other screw.

readjust the idle screw to 650 rpm.

The car should idle at 550 in drive, at least that's what the sticker on the valve cover says.

Get a timing light, check the timing with the vacuum hose off the distributor and plugged with a phillips screwdriver.

If the markers on the balancer jump noticeably, think about changing the timing chain.... seriously.

A stretched timing chain will drive you insane trying to tune the car. My stock chain was trash at 25k on the engine.

Start there, let us know what you find.
 
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suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
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Southern California
Jan 19, 2007
#17
  • Jan 19, 2007
  • #17
I'll try it otu tommorow, thx. I have a question for the white (light cable) cable on the rpm gauge. right now it's not connected, where do i connect it to? I tried using a splice connector to connect it to the cable that's going to the oil pressure illumination bulb but it ended up not lighting either. I can't really trace where the source of the wire is cause it is in about 5 different zip ties.

Also, does anyone have lights in their car? I'd like to put some in mine. I have 2 fixtures under the dash but they have some pretty dull bulbs, and one is completly broken and the other has a fused bulb.

And does the passenger cabin smelling like gas sound normal? I definately smell gas in the trunk, and there isn't a definate seal between the passenger and the trunk.
My mom said she couldn't stand the smell, but i didn't notice it much.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
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119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jan 19, 2007
#18
  • Jan 19, 2007
  • #18
suki243 said:
1.) I have a question for the white (light cable) cable on the rpm gauge. right now it's not connected, where do i connect it to?

2.) Also, does anyone have lights in their car? I'd like to put some in mine. I have 2 fixtures under the dash but they have some pretty dull bulbs, and one is completly broken and the other has a fused bulb.

3.) And does the passenger cabin smelling like gas sound normal? I definately smell gas in the trunk, and there isn't a definate seal between the passenger and the trunk.
My mom said she couldn't stand the smell, but i didn't notice it much.
Click to expand...

First off.....you're in Burbank? As in Burbank, CA? Well lookee here, a local!...sort of; I'm about 1.5hrs north. I used to work in Sylmar.....or is this a different Burbank? Like Lancaster, PA and Lancaster, CA........

1.) The white wire can be spliced into any cuircuit that handles the gage cluster lights. In fact, you should be able to splice into one of the cluster light's wire.

2.) You mean extra courtesy lights? I remember how dim they were in my '65, but they weren't really a problem to me. If you can, try replacing the bulbs first. My '68 has a dome light and while it is still dim, it's better than lights under the dash. Something else not too hard to do is break the glass out of lightbulbs and retrofit the metal cup with high intensity LEDS. I did that to a couple flashlights.

3.) A strong gasoline smell is bad ANYWHERE. Check the rubber hose that joins the filler neck and the tank in the trunk. A new one is cheap if you need it. Also check the fuel line under the car. There are some short segments of rubber hose that join the steel lines together and they might be seeping.

My suggestion is to do like dbfarr said. Get the car safe and running right before spending time and money on things not related to that.
 
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suki243

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Jan 19, 2007
#19
  • Jan 19, 2007
  • #19
Yup burbank, Ca near glendale and 15ish minutes away from downtown La.

The car hasn't stalled on me, does the high rpm explain why it would shake?
I'd greatly appreciate a diagram or picture of where the air/fuel screws and the idle screw might be on the carb
The books that I ordered on the car are on the way, (shipping takes forever).
I'll take off the air cleaner cover, and air cleaner and try to find out wat brand it is, but from what I remember is that it is a rebuilt ford carb. Its a 2 barrel.

What does it mean by match the other screw? as in pull the idleone as out as fuel one?

What are the points from napa that dbfarr is talkn about?

Sorry, i'm trying to get assimilated with the lingo =P I greatly apreciate all your help, and patience.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
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119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jan 19, 2007
#20
  • Jan 19, 2007
  • #20
Sounds like you have an Autolite or Holley two barrel. I'm not familiar with either and thus no help.

The high idle should actually smooth things out rather than increase vibration.
 
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