Quick Quick Final Thing Before The Drive!!!!!!

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 6, 2005

OKAY GUYS I GOT HER RUNNING GREAT NOW!!!!!!!! The only thing left was when I went to put her in reverse it would grind so I didn't push. I am assuming my clutch isn't engaging all the way. It is a JMC hydraulic clutch, what would cause this. It has been bled properly and I thought I had used the adjusting nut enough. Should I take a wrench and tighten it to the point where the throwout bearing is slightly pushing on the pressure plates fingers. Please hurry guys, this is the only thing that is left before I get to drive it.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 6, 2005

COME ON GUYS!!!!! I NEED YOUR HELP BAD!!!!! I adjusted the nut all the way, the thing is when we press on the clutch in moves an inch where I think it should move 1 7/8 inch to properly engage it. I have the throwout bearing firmly touching the fingers on the pressure plate. I have gravity bled it for a day so I figure the bleeding is good.

pabear89 · Nov 6, 2005

You don't want the throwout bearing riding the pressure plate fingers.

there should be some freeplay inbetween the bearing and the plate.

you may have to play with your linkage, how far is the slave cyl travel?

are you using all of it?

PB

66StangFastback · Nov 6, 2005

Hehehe, make sure your neutral safety switch wires clear the headers. Took ours on its first drive in 10 years today. Got it back, killed it then tried to start it back up and wouldn't start. Troubleshooted for an hour before we realize the headers had melted through the neutral safety switch wires. amnit: Just another 50-60 dollars that we have to throw into it, that we could have prevented.

TOM B · Nov 6, 2005

gravity bleeding sometimes dont work, you need a little pressure in the lines to clear all the air out. Get some help, push the clutch in and you bleed it a few times, dont forget to close the bleeded before your help lets the clutch out. You will get more travel this way too.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 6, 2005

That is what we are doing right now. I will keep on bleeding till I can get the clutch to disengage.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 6, 2005

I think the clutch isn't disengaging properly. Also I can't even seem to get the car into gear. Reverse starts to go in but grinds. The other gears won't even move in, even with the car off. It usually goes into gear but it seems like it depends on the position of the engine. I think it may have something to do with the Steeda Tri-Ax shifter I hear they are notchy what do you guys think?

65up2d8 · Nov 6, 2005

You may not have a problem. T5's are notorious for not meshing into reverse without first putting the transmission in a forward gear. My T5 will grind every time I try to put it in reverse if I don't put it in first gear beforehand. Try putting it in first before trying to put it in neutral and see if that doesn't fix the problem.

danewers · Nov 6, 2005

yeah 65up2d8 is right, t5's don't have syncronizers for the reverse gear, so you have to put it in a forward gear before you can shift into reverse just to get things "spinning" so it will smoothly shift in.

about the jmc hydraulic clutch, that was honestly the WORST part of doing my t5 swap, you think its bled? trust me. its not. seriously bleed the **** out of it. do it with two people, someone in the car pumping the pedal and someone underneath bleeding it. im assuming you know how to do this. just keep repeating it, you'll eventually get that full stroke on the slave cylinder you're looking for. i did, it just took a while. in the future, make sure you check the fluid level, cuz my slave started leaking a couple months after i got it installled =\ good luck!

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 7, 2005

****ING CAR I DON'T KNOW WHY I GOT INTO THIS HOBBY!!!! Well I got the clutch working and I can rarely seem to get it into reverse. Now the other problem has arisen that the rear of my oil pan gasket leaks like a sieve so it is time to drop the oil pan for the 4th time.

10secgoal · Nov 7, 2005

Sucks don't it ? I'd say take some time to breathe, but I know how you feel right now. Just want to drive the thing. So you'll spend the next week putting on new head gaskets when you should be spending time with the family. Then at the end of the week you'll drag a friend over to get it to the track just to have it run horrible. But eventually you'll get it running, but cussing at the thing with a vengeance while working on it.
Try the 30 dollar one peice for the late model. Works like a charm. even comes with studa to hold up the pan and gasket while you thread the first few bolts.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 7, 2005

Check my other thread that is what I have. I think it may be the rear main seals.

TOM B · Nov 8, 2005

I had the same leak 3 times. replaced the pan gasket and the rear main seals and still leaked. I then sat down and looked at the darn thing for a few minites and found the problem. The answer is in my book, cost $5.00+shiping.
JUST KIDDING.
I found that when I bolted up the flywheel that I forgot to seal the threads.
as the bolts go into the crankshaft and slosh around in oil and WALLA a leak!
Not a drop of oil now

rhyno9 · Nov 9, 2005

TOM B said:
I found that when I bolted up the flywheel that I forgot to seal the threads.
as the bolts go into the crankshaft and slosh around in oil and WALLA a leak!
Not a drop of oil now

I did the same thing. I was lucky because I work slowly. I had left the car sit with the new flywheel on but I did not install the trans till about about a week later. With the engine tilted back she seeped out oil and it was easy to tell where it was coming from.

It's the stupid little things that get you frustrated in this damn hobby. Remember it's just a hobby.

MitchGT · Nov 10, 2005

I put a hydraulic clutch on mine, and it takes several tries to get it fully bled. One easy way to tell if your clutch disengages completely is to put the rear axle on jackstands, start the car, put the car in gear, but don't release the clutch pedal. If the clutch is properly disengaging, the wheels won't turn until you let out the clutch. If it isn't disengaging correctly, the wheels will turn slowly( or quickly if it's really out of adjustment). If it is out of adjustment it will be difficult to shift and will wear out quickly.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Nov 10, 2005

I like that, maybe my clutch is still not disengaging properly. It disengages at the very bottom of the pedal throw, and I only need to lift like a half an inch to start rolling forward. It is very hard to row through the gears on it. Sometimes it shifts fine, but usually it takes all my strength to put it in gear.

Quick Quick Final Thing Before The Drive!!!!!!

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