R-12 Freon

[gip99drop]

It shouldn't cost no more than 80.00 bucks to change it over.

 

[5spd GT]

Just get the hose wizard kit for $800 dollars, it gives you all new parts (condensor, accumulator, hoses, etc...)...and get's temps down to 37-39* off the vents on fan speed three 50resto sells the kit...

It is a r134a conversion kit for our cars...

 

[PuterAmI]

Cheap and easy - when I took it, the test was timed, but it was open book. Can't get much easier than that.

And if anyone is wondering what we are talking about, see the link below...

EPA Test

 

[89 Saleen#455]

For the record, I said that the system needed to be flushed....and I also said that you needed oil. The accumulator and condenser do not need to be changed as they are no different than the ones used in other applications that came with R134. No part in the system is different, and none of them need to be changed. As long as the system is flushed well enough to remove any ester oil, then all the components will be just fine. There are no issues with r134 not being as cold as r12.

Just to set the record straight, jrichker is 100% correct. You absolutely must replace the accumulator ANYTIME the A/C is opened regardless whether the system has been (or will be flushed). You cannot flush an accumulator. An accumulator is nothing more than a "sponge". It's only purpose in life is to absorb moisture in the A/C system. Once a system is opened (intentionally or through a leak), moisture is present, and the accumulator must be replaced. In addition, accumlators must be replaced when doing an R12 to R134a conversion. Mineral Oil used in R12 systems is not compatable with R134a conversion. Since the old R12 accumulator is "coated" with mineral oil, it must be swapped for a new accumulator when switching to R134a. I don't think it's been mentioned, but you also must switch to green O-rings when converting to R134

 

[89SaleenGT]

There is an excellent r-12 replacement on the market called Freeze 12. Is compatable and works just as well as the old stuff. Inexpensive too. Check out e-bay for it.

You can top an R-12 system with Freeze 12. Other than that, evacuate and recharge with one type of *-12 or convert to R-134.

Saleen#455 is absolutely correct about the R-12 vs R-134 accumulator replacement and o-ring change. I have seen many guys who miss the green o-rings in their conversion.

 

[PuterAmI]

The reason to change the accumulator when converting is to take out the XH5 desiccant and put in an accumulator with the XH7 desiccant.

My link has told about the green rings for years.

It is not imperative to swap out the accumulator each time the system is opened.

One cannot top off an R12 system with Freeze-12.

 

[8950HO]

Is anything wrong with the green o-rings?

I have a Motorcraft YF-2214 ac o-ring kit that I haven`t used yet that contains mostly green o-rings.

 

[PuterAmI]

Is anything wrong with the green o-rings?

Nope.

 

[89SaleenGT]

One cannot top off an R12 system with Freeze-12.

It is illegal to cross contaminate the two refrigerants. (R-12 and Freeze12)

What I was getting at was that one could theoretically top off an R-12 with Freeze 12 with no harm to the A/C system.

One should have the old R-12 reclaimed then Freeze 12 can be used to recharge the system.

 

[PuterAmI]

one could theoretically top off an R-12 with Freeze 12

What is your definition of "top off"? Most people think it means to add a few ounces. If there is no difference between "top off" and "recharge", then I agree.

Yet, I still do not like Freeze12 after all these years. It's 80% R134A. No compressor is warranted when Freeze-12 is used. The R142B is what carries the oil and it will leak out first due to its molecular size. Auto parts stores do not carry it and it is more expensive than R134A.

But, it's the easiest.